Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Mid Glamorgan.

Converting your garage into a habitable room can be an option that’s too good to pass up especially when you’re in dire need of more living space in your home. If you’re in a similar situation and considering the cost of a single garage conversion in your home, then you’ve come to the right place! The fact is, the cost of a single garage conversion is dependent on a number of influencing factors which includes your specific plans as well as your location. Generally, the price of garage remodel is expected to cost about half of what you’ll incur when building a home extension or addition from scratch. However, before commencing a project of this magnitude you should put into consideration some things.

A single garage conversion is a huge job which typically involves wall insulation, floor raising, heating addition, cool and ventilation as well as updating doors and windows. Before you get started you should consider if converting your single garage into a room is a good option, whether a permit is required to convert a garage, the type of room a garage can become, does it add value to your home and how much its going to cost.

Just like any other home improvement project, garage conversion cost varies depending on several factors like your garage space specifications. Other factors include the general condition of your garage - the condition of your foundation, walls, floors or roofs, the ceiling and more, planning applications, your location, the services of a structural engineer, internal or external garages etc. According to Santander, the average cost of converting a single garage costs approximately £6,300. However, considering the aforementioned influencing factors we’d expect the cost of a single garage conversion to cost within the range of £5,500 to £10,500.

1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
   • A concrete base laid on hardcore
   • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
   • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
   • An interlocking plastic system
   All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
4. Put up the shed walls
   • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
   • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
   • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
   Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
5. Fit the roof
   • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
   • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
   • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
   • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
   • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
6. Add the shed windows
   • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
   • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
   • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.

A garden room extension, also referred to as Sunroom or Solarium, is basically a stand alone garden building that’s totally detached from the home. They are typically semi-glazed building that features a tiled roof rather than glass. What would have been good examples of garden rooms extensions include conservatories, orangeries as well as pool houses, however they are constructed with the help of different materials and features which ultimately makes them different to garden rooms.

Garden room extensions are built with the major purpose of adding extra functional living spaces for a wide range of room options such as a second living room, dining room, study space, home garden office or a rehearsal space - the options are numerous. In other words if you’re looking for an additional usable space within your home or property, a garden room extension can be designed to suit your needs. So whether you need comfy sofas for evening relaxations, a sturdy office desk for work or large dining room table for dinners with family and friends, a garden room extension can be all that you need to achieve to your living space goals or just to add more value to your property.

Garden rooms extension has multiple alternatives such as a conservatory, garage conversion, loft conversion, extension and garden rooms. However, it has some great benefits over its alternatives. These benefits include, being very cost effective, hassle free, can be built within 5 to 9 days, rarely requires planning permission, does not require building regulations approval, includes a full professional installation and management without any need for subcontractors, modern and unique as well as being very versatile. Overall, if you’re looking to create an additional space in your home without having to break the bank, then garden room extensions may be your best bet.

Before you start digging, you should know sewer lines are required to be buried within certain specifications and it’s your responsibility to find out what these specifications are. If you’re thinking about the appropriate depth of sewer line, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post we’re going to consider how deep a main sewer line should be buried underground.

First and foremost, you should understand that sewer lines are simply the intestinal systems of a house or property. Their primary function is to totally remove waste water and other waste matter from your drains, toilet, shower, dishwasher as well as the exterior faucets. With this in mind, we can then move to our main concern which is the sewer line depth. In a world that’s perfect, you’d be allowed to to just dig your home’s sewer line deep enough to cover it with a thin layer of sod. However, if you happen to reside in an environment with deep running cold, this inclement weather may just freeze up your waste right in the pipe due to the fact that it’s placed too close to the surface where there’s not enough warmth. This could also extend to other harsh weather conditions such as heavy wind and hurricanes which are able to tear out ground deep down and even more so, if it were to pull up trees that are close by with deep roots. Hence, the need to get the appropriate depth of sewer lines right.

Sewer lines depth can vary greatly - they can be as shallow as 12 to 30 and can be as deep as 6+ feet. This is often determined by the climate.

How Much Does It Cost To Move A Gas Meter?

When your gas meter is not in the right location while completing your renovation works or extending your property, it can be a worrying experience.

As a homeowner, you’re not allowed by the law to move your gas meter by yourself - it’s a very dangerous task that’s too risky to undertake just by watching a Youtube video or reading a blog post. Moving of a gas meter can and should only be carried out by a qualified and licensed gas supplier. And this, ultimately, gives rise to the question - how much does it cost to move a gas meter? Before we provide an answer for that, let’s look at what moving of a gas meter entails.

First and foremost, moving of a gas meter typically involves switching off the gas source to your home or property. The pipeline about 2 metres away from your property would be cut into for safety reasons and diverted into another position. Furthermore, you can as well apply that your meter should be re-fitted and re-linked to the inner copper pipeline, but that’s if the inner copper pipeline happens to be within two metres of the new location of your gas meter.

The time involved in the completion of a gas meter re-location project depends largely on the complexity of the job as each project is unique. Typically, the standard timescale from preparation to the final stage of moving a gas meter will take between 4 to 8 weeks. Finally, how much will it cost to relocate your gas meter?

As there are no government funds to subsidize gas meter relocation costs, this can be a very expensive work to carry out. Generally, the price to move a gas meter of about 5m will start within the range of £640 to £670.

As the summer months draw nearer, you get better accustomed to the ambient noise produced by your air conditioning system which is constantly in operation to keep your home cool and comfortable for both you and your loved ones. During this period, it’s absolutely normal to expect a spike in your energy bill and wish to know how you can limit the expenses without having to sacrifice your home’s temperature. In this guide, we’re going to consider some of the major ways you can save energy in your home without having to sacrifice your air conditioning system. Let’s take a look!

1. Reduce phantom loads. This is an electronic appliance that still makes use of energy even when turned off and not in operation. These phantom loads are actually everywhere in your home but you just don’t know that the television, toaster or even your phone’s charger continue to suck electricity when they’re not in use.
2. Incorporate more energy-efficient appliances. Before making a purchase, ensure that the appliance has the Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star Label as they use 10 to 15 percent less energy than their counterparts.
3. Change out your light bulbs. The older your incandescent light bulb gets, the more energy it consumes. You can cut cost by reglarly changing them out.
4. Install a programmable thermostat. With such a device, you can adjust your home’s temperature to your schedule and needs to cover for the time when you would not be home.
5. Use fan. A cooling fan can significantly lower the cost of running an AC system.
6. Seal all air leaks. Blocking all air leaks in your home is a great way to ensure energy is well maximized
7. Make your windows more efficient.
8. Enhance you insulation
9. Conduct a regular servicing of your AC unit
10. Setting the air conditioning temperature higher at night

When it comes to fence ownership and responsibility, this is often a subject of dispute between neighbours and understandably so. Owning a fence comes with a number of responsibilities such as arranging and paying for the maintenance and more. Therefore, if you’re not yet sure who owns the garden fence, then you’d probably want to have that sorted to make sure your property stays protected at all times. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into some of the rules guiding fence ownership in order to help you make informed decisions. Let’s take a look!

There’s no rule of thumb on whether you own the fence on the right hand or the left hand side of your property. Therefore, if you’ve heard any “rules that states otherwise, you can fling that out the window because not everyone will own the left hand side to their fence. The first way to determine who owns the garden fence or which side of the fence you’re responsible for is simply by looking. Although this is not guaranteed or a definite way to determine ownership, it can go a long way to give you a good idea. As you would have expected, fences are most likely built on the land that belongs to the boundary’s owner with the further edge of the fence making the actual boundary. As a result, you can determine a fence ownership simply by identifying where the frames are.

Also, you can determine fence ownership using the title deeds for an official and accurate answer. A copy should be given alongside your paperwork which is received when purchasing your house.

It is crucial to make the walls of your bathroom waterproof, and bathroom wall panels or bathroom cladding is not only a great way to do that, but its also the easiest way to update the look of your bathroom. When it comes to adding wall panels to your bathroom, there are a large selection of designs to choose from which means you’ll always find something that’ll suit your space. So how do you have them installed? With this brief guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the bathroom panels installation. Let’s have a look!

1. Get the right tools and supplies. You’ll require a handsaw, jigsaw, or circular saw, hacksaw, drill, hammer, 1200mm spirit level, sealant gun, suction cups and tape measure.
2. Prepare the bathroom. Ensure that the bathroom walls are degreased, clean and, dust and dirt free. Also make sure that its flat and even with a spirit level.
3. Make sure a fixing method is in place. If not, make use of treated battens as a fixing method. Fit all battens in such a way that’s plumb and parallel.
4. Fit the shower tray. Take a measurement of the shower tray to identify the length of the seal strips that is needed while also making room for the shower screen.
5. Add the seal strips.
6. Cut the panels to size. Mark the bathroom wall panels and cut to get the right measurement in both height and width. Also ensure to make room for pipe and shower head holes at this point.
7. Install the panels.