Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Bankside.

When you’re trying to decide on an architect to hire, start by making sure that all the professionals you consider specialise in residential architectural services. The architect you choose needs to be an expert in and have plenty of experience working on similar projects to yours.

It’s also important to factor in what other customers think. Look for online reviews of the professionals you find, ask to see portfolios of their work and even ask for references. This will help to give you an idea of whether they’re skilled and reliable.

Make sure you also meet and have a discussion with any architects you’re considering hiring for your home building project. It’s vital for you to get on with them and to share the same vision, otherwise you’ll struggle to get the end result you want.

One thing you should know about block paving a drive is that it can be very expensive depending on a number of factors such as the materials to be incorporated, block paving pattern, labour cost as well as the size of the drive in question. However, before you get started it’s always a good idea to obtain multiple quotes to compare the prices and select the most reasonable quote. Here, we’ve provided a breakdown of the block paving cost to ensure that you’ll not get ripped off.

There are three main types of block paving which includes clay blocks, concrete blocks as well as natural stone. If you were to go for complex block paving patterns and extras such as drainage solutions and edging, you may have to pay a significantly higher price. The size of your drive is also a major determinant of your block paving cost. What’s more? The materials you need as well as the contractors you select will all play a key role in the final cost of block paving your drive.

The material cost for the three types of block paving includes: Clay block £70 to £100 per m2, concrete blocks £20 to £60 per m2 and natural stone £50 to £105 per m2. To calculate your total material cost, you’ll need to determine the size of your drive.

The cost of labour for installing block paving is usually within the range of £50 to £100 per square metre. In certain cases, you may also have some waste removal needs. If you’re going to hire a specialist that’ll take a day or two of labour to get the job done, it’ll cost about £150 to £200 per day.

Other additional block paving costs include: hardcore £300, blocks and edgings £1,700, sharp sand £250. kiln-dried sand £250 and skip hire £500.

Double glazed windows are one of the most popular window options for home and property owners in the United Kingdom and reasonably so. They are able to offer a wide range of benefits to home owners which includes being energy efficient, reducing the build up of condensation on windows and black mould growth, significantly reducing background noise for a better relaxation or night rest, increasing the value of your property as well as adding to the aesthetic appeal of your home. So if you’ve decided to lay your hands on a double glazed window, you’d probably also like to know how much it’s going to cost. Well, providing a simple and accurate answer to the question of double glazing window cost is almost impossible as there are so many factors that influences the price including the materials and style.

Several suppliers usually provide the list of their double glazing windows on their websites, however these prices are only for basic off the shelf window and most often without the installation cost. Furthermore, if you require some special features to your double glazed window, then this will also tell on the total cost of the window.

So how much will a double glazing window cost? The cost of a double glazing window usually ranges between £100 to £3,200 per window, depending on the available options.

To have a more accurate estimate of the cost of a double glazing window, you’ll need a obtain a survey from a double glazing installer who can take into account any possible complications that may arise when installing your windows while also giving an advise on the most suitable window style for your property.

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d want to try out on your bathroom without some practices.  For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

1. Make Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor
   Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.
2. Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.
3. Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.
4. Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.
5. Cut The Tiles
6. Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.
7. Choose The Appropriate Adhesive
8. To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer. If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar
9. Prepare The Area
10. Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.
11. Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.
12. Space The Tiles
    Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.
13. If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.
14. Use The Right Grout
15. With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.
16. The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.
17. Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.

Clean of your conservatory gutter is probably not one of the most enjoyable chores you’d like to take on around the house. Not only is it messy and tedious, but it’s also time consuming and smelly. It’s a job every home and property owner would rather avoid, but unfortunately everyone has to do it. It’s a necessity due to the fact that neglect gutters holds and harbours mould, moss as well as plant debris. It would have been better if this is only disgusting, but the actual truth is that should be the least of your worries as this gradual build up of organic material in your conservatory gutters can minimize their drainage abilities, leading to leakages and spills that can damage your conservatory.

Cleaning of your conservatory gutter is a task that can be done regardless of your level of experience. However, it’s advisable to call in a professional for help especially if you lack the confidence required to pull it off.

• Use a ladder for a closer look. Cleaning your gutters from the ground by poking it with a hooked tool might seem the best way out, but in truth you risk damaging the gutters or brackets and marking the conservatory panes when you don’t see what you’re doing.
• Invest in specialist tools. For expert DIYers, taking off your downpipes from the wall to clean might be a pretty easy task. However, for most people it can be extremely frustrating. As a result, there’s the need to get hold of some flexible gutter brushes. With a bendable stem and stiff bristles, these are able to hook and dislodge dirt and leaves inside your downpipes with relative ease.

It’s not essential to hire an architect for a new extension project, but it can help you get a good result.

If you’d like to put your whole extension project in the hands of a professional, hiring an architect is a great idea. They’ll work with you to create the design you want, and can manage planning applications and work with building contractors to make sure your extension ends up just the way you want it.

However, if you want to save money, there are plenty of other options. Even if you’ve got good vision, you’ll need a professional of some kind to draw up plans for you. Either hire an architect to only do design work, or hire a design and build company to do the whole thing for you. If you’ve got the skills, you could even commission a design professional to draw up the plans and then build the thing yourself.

There are lots of design professionals out there, with different levels of experience and skill. So, it’s a good idea to pick a professional who has the level of skill to match your needs.

Are you thinking about updating your bathroom? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how to go about it. Well, when it comes to bathroom remodelling, the process always begins with the drawing of a floor plan. If you don’t know how to go about that, then you’ve come to the right place! In this guide, we’re going to take you through the bathroom floor plan drawing process. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, you can make use of the pencil and paper approach as it happens to be much cheaper than the computer based approach. Plus, you don’t have to be an art genius in school to complete the task satisfactorily.

1. Sketch it out. Create a rough sketch of the space on unlined paper. This should feature all openings like the doors and windows, the spots where the existing plumbing fixtures are located, the location of the electrical lines including outlets, receptacles, heating and cooling pipes and more
2. Add dimensions to the sketch. The next line of action would be to take measurements of the bathroom. With the help of a friend, hold the tape tightly at both ends in order to get the right dimensions. Then, measure the length of the walls, fixtures, windows and mark then roughly on the sketch. Once done, you can go back to double check the recorded measurements for accuracy.
3. Transfer the room dimensions to a sheet of graph paper. At the stage in the process, you should be aware that each 1/4 inch square on the graph paper is equal to 6 inches or half foot. You can start by drawing the bathroom walls and partitions as well as the surrounding areas. Then, add the doors and the direction they swing open and the windows present. Once done, draw the fixtures to complete the floor plan.

The bath waste is primarily responsible for the safe drainage of the bath once the plug is removed. Generally, it’s connected to the overflow which enables excess water to go away if the plug is in and the bath is overfilled. There are times whereby the bath waste can corrode and start to leak, so when this happens its important to replace the components so as to make sure that there’s no excessive water damage as well as other complications. This is a task any DIYer, regardless of the experience level can achieve, however if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we aim to take you through the bath waste fitting process to ensure you do it the right way. Let’s take a look!

• Remove the old bath waste. Do this by unscrewing the screw probably located at the centre of the waste cover. Then pull the outer cover away from the bath. Locate a larger washer underneath and lift it out, the clean the hole of any old sealant to make a smooth entry for the new waste.
• Disconnect the connector and pipe. Locate the plastic pipe that runs from the bottom of the bath to the overflow rose high up at the bath’s end. You’ll observe a connector at each end of the pipe, remove the pipe from the connectors and unscrew both connectors.
• Connect new fittings to new pipe. Take the new plastic waste and connect it to one end of the new plastic pipe and repeat the same process at the other end with the plastic overflow.
• Connect to the bath. Push or screw the waste up into the hole underneath the bath and connect into the trap pipe underneath. Push the new overflow into the bath’s back and on the front then screw I the rose or the cover of the new overflow.