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Unlike in houses constructed in the 1960s, where you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type, majority of houses built in the 1970s would not need to be rewired. Most often than not, what they’ll need is just a consumer unit as well as an earthing upgrade. If you happen to have a consumer unit change, the electrical professional you hire would have to inspect the most parts of the property regardless. With that answered, you may also wish to know just how often a house would need to be rewired.

First and foremost, in order to make sure that your wiring is safe there’s a need to ensure that a periodic inspection is carried out by a fully licensed and qualified electrician every 10 years. Meanwhile for rental properties with tenants, the landlord is required to carry out a periodic inspection at least every 5 years. This will make sure that the electrical works in the property are safe, up to date and suitable for continued usage.

In order to determine whether your house needs to be rewired, there are some signs or indicators you’d have to watch out for. If you notice one or even a combination of the following , then you should get in touch with a registered electrician:

• Discoloured outlets and switches
• Persistent burning smell
• Outlets problems
• Flickering lights
• Tripping circuit breaker or blown fuses
• If you happen to possess aluminium wiring
• If you have continually experienced electrical shocks

It must, however, be said that rewiring a house is a messy and quite disruptive work. It’s also considered to be quite dangerous and recommended to be carried out only by a professional is well trained and experienced when it comes to tackling electrical works.

When it comes to laying of bricks, it is essential to get the right mortar mix. It is vital, be it for construction or maintenance projects, so far mortar is required. There are several materials incorporated in getting mortar which includes both cement and sharp sand, soft sand or plasterer’s sand and lots more. Here, we are going to look at the right ratio for cement and sand mix in bricklaying.

Cement include ingredients such as iron, aluminium, as well as silicon and it is mainly used for mortars like aerated cement mortar, Portland cement mortar and gauged mortar. Sand, on the other hand, comes in different forms such as sharp sand, soft sand and plasterer’s sand. The sharp sand consists of a larger grain size than the others and is usually incorporated in the construction areas that requires more strength as well as flexibility. Soft sand is the most common one used in mortar and it’s also referred to as bricklayers’ sand. These are used to make all types of mortar. Finally the plasterer’s sand which neither has the sharp sand’s coarseness nor the fineness of the soft sand, but can also be used for any form of mortar.

Cement and sand mortar is used for a plethora of bricklaying jobs serving as a glue for bricks, walls and pillars, while also repairing or maintaining old listed buildings. The preferred ratio here is 1:3 to 1:5 of cement and building sand. Meanwhile, to get a sand cement mix, essential materials that are required includes water, soft building sand as well as cement. However, you must also note that a sand and cement mortar is not used for structural projects, rather a concrete ratio is used.

Chances are at some point you’d probably given a though about how steps would fit in perfectly in your garden, except of course, your yard and garden is flat. Adding steps and gardens makes it a lot easier to get around your yard while also enhancing its curb appeal. In order to avoid the cost of hiring a professional to get the task done, you might be tempted to make it a DIY task. However, if you lack the required skill and confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you call in a professional so as to avoid costly errors. In this post, we’re going to take you through the garden steps building process. Let’s take a look!

1. Measure the vertical height of the slope by marking it with two parallel lines. Once done, proceed by connecting a string line to the slope’s top and hold it in a horizontal way, take a measurement of the flight’s length and breadth. Divide the measurement by 200mm to get the number of steps that’ll be required. Then proceed to divide the number by the height to identify the depth of each step.
2. Working downwards from the flight’s top, dig the step shapes and also dig a shallow trench and install a concrete foundation.
3. Enable the foundation to harden by leaving it for about 48 hours, then install two courses of bricks on the concrete strip and use gravel to backfill.
4. With the help of a trowel, apply mortar to the top of the brickwork. Place the first slab on the mortar bed and press down. Then, make use of a spirit level to make sure that the steps are level.
5. On the back edge of the first tread, you should proceed to build the second rise, backfill and install the slab to form the second tread – just like the previous step. Repeat this process until you’ve gotten to the top of the flight.

Does A Single Storey Extension Add Value To Your House?

When you’re looking to construct a single storey extension or perhaps you’re just searching for means to increase the value of your property, this question always pops up. The short and simple answer to this question is a resounding yes, a single storey extension can go a long way to increase the value of your property. Just like any other home improvement, when done right, adding a little extra living space is one of the top things you can probably think of that’ll provide a cool increase in your property’s value. However, before you rush in you must also take note of some factors so you can be certain a single storey extension is the right option for you. These factors include the quality of the build, complexity of the build, cost of the build versus the value gain, ceiling price in the area, finance costs as well as the inconveniences and stress.

Generally, the average cost of a single storey extension can range from £34,000 to £37,000. For this price, you should get a standard sized rear or side extension which also includes the cost of a kitchen - it’s the most commonly use for a single story extension especially in the UK. So it’s important to know the value they’ll add to your house before deciding to make such an investment.

The value added to your property will depend largely on the quality and size of your single storey extension. The value is usually calculated by estate agents using the number of bedrooms, bathrooms as well as the floor area. Inside London, it’ll typically be priced at £5,000 to £10,000 per square metre, while outside London should be within the range of £900 to £2,000 per square metre.

If you’re currently experiencing some structural issues with your building or property and you’ve heard a thing or two about the several benefits associated with getting underpinning done, you may be wondering if underpinning might just be the answer to your worries. Well, one thing you should when it comes to underpinning is the fact that, while there are some structural issues that may actually warrant an underpinning job, there are also some situations that can not be fixed by underpinning. In this post, we’re going to consider the events whereby underpinning of your house will be required. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, you should know that underpinning isn’t required for issues related to slab heave. Footing movements which are likely to reverse normally occur when the content of the soil moisture changes unevenly which gives rise to slab heave. This movement results for a reversible effect.

Generally, underpinning is done to remedy problems related with the movement of the footings of a building or property, but as stated above – not all movements require underpinning. So, when is underpinning required? More often than not, a situation that’s resolved by underpinning is the event whereby the footings of a building or structure drops or subside as a result of some reasons that are irreversible. For example, footing movements caused by a footing set on a soft or loose soil which may be irreversible.

In the event whereby the footings of your house haven’t been installed as deep as required during the initial construction, then you will need to have your building underpinned to make it more stable. If you’re also looking to increase the load on your foundation like adding another storey, you may also need to have your house underpinned to support the extra weight added.

Does It Take Long To Put A Solid Roof On A Conservatory?

If you’re interested in installing a solid roof on your conservatory, it may also interest you to know just how long the project is going to take. Well, the fitting of a solid conservatory roof is quite easy and quick with minimal disruption and mess around when done by a reliable professional. The process, however, involves removing the old existing roof of the conservatory rather than fitting the new roof over the old one which can lead to many complications. Generally, the entire process should take about 6 working days to complete. In this article, we’re going to provide a breakdown of each task as well as the duration to complete the individual tasks to give you an idea of the entire solid roof replacement process. Let’s take a look!

✓ Day 1 - Setting up of the site. This includes sealing off your conservatory from the rest of the house as well as laying of the floor protection. Furthermore, your existing conservatory roof will be removed and positioned in such a way to enable easy transportation and disposal. By the end of the first day, the installation of the new roof will completed and made to be water tight

✓ Day 2 - Insulation will be installed on the inside of your new solid roof.

✓ Day 3 - The replacement conservatory roof will be tiled and the insulated plasterboard will be installed inside.

✓ Day 4 - This involves finishing of the conservatory roof’s inside and outside. And all rubbish would be adequately disposed off.

✓ Day 5 - Your tiled conservatory roof’s new ceiling will be plastered.

✓ Day 6 - This day is free as the plaster is left to dry off properly.

How To Replace Flat Roof Felt

Also referred to as tar paper, roofing felt is installed underneath the roof’s shingles to help deny water access to your home. Installing the roofing felt in overlapping layers builds a water barrier in situations whereby the weather damages or blows away the shingles. Although the application of a roofing felt on a flat roof is relatively easier and safer than working on a peaked roof, it’s advisable to take enough care and precautions. If you lack proper training and experience for this task, we’d recommend you employ a reliable professional to guarantee the best results and save you from further headaches especially in cases whereby unfortunate errors are made. This step by step guide will give you a good insight into the flat roof felt replacement process.

• Take a measurement of the width and length of the roof.

• Calculate the square footage by multiplying the numbers.

• Multiply the square footage gotten by three (it’s advisable to install three layers of roofing felt to create a really strong weather barrier).

• Use a claw hammer to remove the existing roofing felt.

• Use utility knife to cut the new felt to fit the length of the roof.

• Place the first piece along the roof’s edge and use a hammer tacker to tack the felt in place with staples or galvanized nails and hammer.

• Put the staples or nails at every 6 inches along the side touching the roof’s edge as well as down the short sides.

• Repeat the same process for the second piece, laying it out beside the first row of felt.

• Cut a piece of felt to the appropriate length using a utility knife to begin the second layer of roofing felt, and cutting it in half, lengthwise.

• Apply construction adhesive along the first row using a trowel.

• Press the first piece for the second layer onto the adhesive. Repeat this process until the roof is covered with a second layer

• Apply construction adhesive over the second layer to install the third layer. Begin with a full piece of felt without cutting it in half.

• Overlap each piece by 2 inches until you’ve completely installed the third layer.

Are you looking to create some more space in your home with your garage being almost dispensable? If yes, then considering a garage conversion project may be the way to go. Unlike many other extension options, garage conversion does not take up an additional space as it only changes the current structure of the garage. As a result, the cost of completing a garage conversion project can be relatively attractive when compared to other space creating alternatives. So exactly how much would a garage conversion project cost? Well, there’s no precise answer for this as several influencing factors come to play. However, in this guide we’ll give you a rough idea of the average costs that you’re likely going to encounter. Some of the factors that can influence your budget dramatically includes the following:

• The size of the conversion. The larger the size of the garage per square feet, the more cost you’ll have to expend.

• The type of your property - listed buildings are usually more expensive.

• Your location in the UK. If you stay in London where there’s a higher demand, you’ll most likely pay more.

• You’re likely to pay more if a specialist knowledge is required.

• The amount of glazing to be installed

• Quality of the materials to be incorporated.

• Quality of the professional to carry out the installation service.

On average, when it comes to garage conversion projects, you’re likely to pay the following depending on the per square metre given:

• A single garage of about 15 square metre will cost within the range of £6,000 to £15,000.

• A double garage of about 30 square metre will cost within the range of £12,000 to £30,000.