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Strong winds can cause extensive damage to unprotected rooftops and in fact tiles act as very suitable protection. The extra weight they provide is great at countering high wind loads and if anything is damaged during severe weather, replacing tiles is straight forward for professional roofers.When you compare this to lightweight materials there’s a significant difference. If you wish to have extra protection, experts recommended having sarking fitted.

With a large variety of carpet types in the market today, it can be incredibly difficult to separate the “the boys from the men. To a great number of home and property owners, what matters is the visual appeal as well as the affordability of the carpet. Once they find one that fits the bill, they simply purchase ignoring the suitability of the carpet for their homes. In several cases, this will often turn out to be disastrous especially when it happens to be a total mismatch. For instance, when you install a carpet that’s not designed to withstand a heavy footfall in a highly busy household or booming business. If you’re looking to get the best possible carpet, then you’ve found the perfect company. In this post, we’re going to consider the best carpet type to help you make informed purchase decisions going forward. Let’s take a look!

Primarily, loop pile and cut pile are the two types that are available in the market today.

• The loop style pile. Here, the individual ends are linked into the backing to ensure a continuous loop.
• The cut style pile. For this carpet style, the loops are cut to ensure that each ends are sticking up through the backing - similar to a sheer cut pile.

There are three main types of fibres used today in carpet construction that you should consider. These includes polypropylene, polyester as well as nylon. Furthermore, the most popular choice today when it comes to natural fibre is wool. However, wool’s high price makes it less common and often considered as a luxurious option. For heavy traffic areas, the best carpets are usually loop pile styles to ensure maximum value is derived from your asset. On the other hand, if you want an easy-to-clean carpet, then olefin and polyester should be on the top of your list.

How Deep Is A Septic Tank Buried?

Septic tanks may be an unknown concept to a lot of individuals in town and cities, but to those in the rural areas where certain things are unavailable, septic tanks are a necessity. After all, modern amenities such as appropriate plumbing is something we all need to live a comfortable and conveniently lifestyle.

If you happen to be interested in knowing more about the septic tank concept, you just moved into a house with a septic tank already built in or perhaps you want to have a septic tank system installed on your property, then you may likely want to know just how deep septic tanks are buried. Regardless of what the case may be, being aware of the depth of your septic tank can be a very tricky affair given the circumstances and even more so, when you’re ignorant of the positioning of the lids.

When it comes to the depth of septic tank systems, the general rule of thumb is that they should be buried within the range of four inches to four feet underground.

If you’re more particular about locating where your septic tank is built in, there are a few easy ways to find out. Firstly, you can let your sewer pipes lead you in. Generally, the tank as well as drain field are normally fitted parallel to the sewer line which extends from your home. Secondly, you can also look for visual clues to check if there’s either septic tank risers or clean out ports that is coming out from the ground. This way, you’ll able to tell right away where the septic tank system is located underground. However, if there are no visual clues then you can make some intelligent guesses. Simply take a look at your building’s piping and conditions of the property to have a good idea of where the tank is buried.

How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

If you’re considering laying gravel on your driveway, then you’d probably want to know the amount of gravel you’ll need to complete the project. When you are calculating the amount of gravel you’ll require to cover your driveway, there’s an important factor you’ll need to consider and that is the type of gravel you opt for such as a crushed or pea gravel. There are varying grades which are found in particles from fine to course, with a size ranging from 2mm to 64mm. Therefore, there’s a need to estimate the volume of the gravel while also having the rock’s size in mind. Also, there’s a need to select your most preferred gravel which you’ll like to use before proceeding to dig the depth of your driveway and subsequently determine the amount of gravel that’ll be needed using these excellent tips.

✓ Determine the size and coverage. As you would have expected, the smaller the gravel is, the bigger the coverage will be, and gravels should be at least 4 inches deep. However, if the rocks happen to be a bit large then you can allow for an extra 1/2 inch.

✓ Measure the driveway. Multiply the width by the length and depth to get the size of the driveway in cubic feet. Meanwhile for cubic yards, you can divide the total cubic feet by 27. This is due to the fact that one cubic feet is same as 1.13 tons.

✓ Working with gravel. Here, you’ll have to calculate an underlay measurements differently. You can use 2 inches of road base that’ll be overlaid with 2 inches of gravel.

Some floor tiles are so lovely you just can’t help but wonder if it’s safe to be used on the walls as well. If you’re also thinking along the same line, you’re not alone! Several other home and property owners are busy finding answers to this particular question. Now let’s look at the possibilities.

Generally, any tile designed as a floor tile by the tile manufacturer can also be laid on the wall (vertical surfaces) as well as countertops. Due to the fact that the floors are usually subjected to greater use than the walls in terms of foot traffic, the durability required is also considerably greater. Therefore, a floor tile with Abrasion Resistance values ranging from I - V is suitable for wall installation. However, you should take note that exterior wall applications must be different from its interior counterparts and must only be incorporated on tiles that are frost resistant.

There are two other factors that must be taken into consideration before you install a floor tile on your walls which includes the weight of your tiles per m2 as well as the strength of the surface in which the tile is to be installed. If you don’t want your tiles falling off, the combined weight of the tiles with the adhesive and grout should not be more than the maximum weight required per m2 (20kg to 35kg depending on the wall substrates).

Now that you have an idea of the possibilities of installing floor tiles on walls, it must, however, be said that reverse is the case when it comes to installing walls tiles on the floor. Wall tiles are, generally, not suitable to be laid on the floor as they are mostly non-vitreous ( cannot withstand excessive impact, abrasion or thaw cycling).

Are you about to purchase a double glazed unit and wondering how to go about the replacement project? If yes, then you’re at the right place. Firstly, it’s advisable to hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help especially if you lack proper training and experience in the field. However, we’ve put together this step by step guide to provide you with a detailed information about the double glazed unit replacement process. Let’s get started!

The tools and materials you require for the project includes tape measure, hammers, nail punch, scraper, spacing blocks, non-hardening butyl putty, high-security glazing tape rolls and beading tacks.

• Work out the glass size required. Simply use the tape measure to measure from frame edge to frame edge while also taking note of the thickness.

• When about to order, inform the glass merchant that the measurement provided are frame-tight. This will make him reduce the dimension a little bit, mostly by 5mm for clearance.

• Remove the beading and ensure to support the glass while doing so. If the glass units are fitted in wooden windows, you may need to cut the putty-based compound they’re normally sealed with to remove the glass.

• Lay out the beading in the window’s shape to make for easier refitting later on.

• If you’re working on wooden frames, wipe out all traces of excess installation compound using a scraper and clean the rebate with a soft brush.

• Trial fit the double glazed windows to ensure they’d slide into the frame without being forced.

• Plastic frame windows are usually in between a pair of gaskets, you should replace this with a hight security glazing tape. While for a wooden frame, simply apply strips of flexible non-setting butyl putty or high-security glazing tape on either sides of the glass.

• Install and centralize the glass in the frame.

• Press the nail wooden beading or plastic beading back into place.