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Being a fantastic alternative to slabs or block paves, gravel drive way slowly becoming an extremely popular driveway surfacing option in the UK. Not only does gravel driveway value adding investment to a home, but also allows you to be very creative and can make a beautiful addition to your home.

It’s normal to think that having a new gravel laid is a herculean task but when the necessary tools and materials are within your reach then it’s a fair simple task for the competent DIYer. So if you’re about to lay your new gravel driveway option of your home and wondering how deep to dig the driveway, then you’ve come to the right place. There are times, however, that the best option would be to hire a reliable and trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results while also helping you save time and additional expenses which could result from costly mistakes. However, in this guide, we offer some handy tips on the appropriate depth of a gravel driveway in order to put you on the right path from the start. So let’s take a closer look!

Normally, it’s required to lay a a 10 mm aggregate on a depth which should be within the range of 30 mm to 40 mm. However in the case of driveway, this structure must be at least 50mm deep. As a result of this requirement, you’ll require to dig a minimum depth of about 50 mm to 60mm on your driveway. If you’re using a larger aggregate, it’s going to settle and bond together more easily than the smaller alternatives. Therefore, the depth of your driveway will mostly be determined by the size of the aggregate you opt for as well as how you intend to use the surface.

If you feel your sewer line is clogged, the best course of action is to have it cleared as soon as possible and even more so, by an experienced professional. When left untreated, this can lead to water leakages which can damage your home or business facility. And in serious situations, it can lead to pipe burst which will definitely cost you a lot more money to fix when compared to taking a quick action to unclog the sewer line blockages. If you’re thinking about hiring a professional, then you’d probably want to know how much its going to cost. In this post, we’re going to look at the cost of clearing a sewer line and the possible influencing factors.

The cost of clearing sewer lines depend on a number of factors. These factors include the type of the blockage, the method used, the location of the property as well as the ease of access. Using the blockage type as an example, a small blockage in a toilet or sink is usually priced within the range of £50 to about £70. However, for an extensive blockage deep in your sewer lines, you may end up incurring anything within the range of £150 to about £200.

There are also a bunch of methods that can be used to clear blockages from a sewer line which will also play a key role in the final cost of the service. These methods include drain jetting which usually costs within the range of £70 to £175, drain rodding from £80 to about £145 as well as a full system scrub which should cost about £150 to £200.

Do note that the above costs are just an estimate and other factors as mentioned earlier on will also come into play.

What Do Landscape Gardeners Charge?

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your gardening, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the garden landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for a effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility ( as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So just how much will landscape gardeners charge?

Just like most home improvement efforts, the cost of landscape gardening is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the garden, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscape gardeners can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the gardening services required. As a daily rate, professional gardeners tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a gardener will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The periods at which noisy work is permitted do vary across the nation because the Control of Pollution Act 1974 provided Local Authorities with the authority to regulate noise from construction sites and similar areas. At the same time as these do differ across unalike councils, the average hours throughout which noisy work is tolerable is usually between 8 am and 6 pm from Monday to Friday. This is usually based on the impression of ‘noisy work’ being carried out, so labours could start earlier to prepare things for the day but then not start carrying out their work until 8 am.

On Saturday’s builders are usually allowed to work between 8 am and 1 pm, but this can differ to some extent with different councils. It does mean that workers can start at the identical time as the rest of the week, but they are generally required to finish a lot prior. On Sundays and Bank Holidays there is not as much of detailed direction on hours, but most councils say that there should be no noisy work taking place. Although these are decent strategies, it is worth examining your Local Authority website as they can change slightly. Noisy work is commonly described as ‘noise audible at the site boundary’ and it may be the case that workers are there outside these hours but are setting up before carrying out noisy work.

Local Authorities also recognise that now and then it is unescapable to work separately to these hours, such as work on railway tracks that must be done when trains are not running. Though, local councils do have the authority to serve an announcement on individuals carrying out building or demolition works and tell them how the work should be carried out to evade a possible lawful noise irritation.

Chances are at some point you’d probably given a though about how steps would fit in perfectly in your garden, except of course, your yard and garden is flat. Adding steps and gardens makes it a lot easier to get around your yard while also enhancing its curb appeal. In order to avoid the cost of hiring a professional to get the task done, you might be tempted to make it a DIY task. However, if you lack the required skill and confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you call in a professional so as to avoid costly errors. In this post, we’re going to take you through the garden steps building process. Let’s take a look!

1. Measure the vertical height of the slope by marking it with two parallel lines. Once done, proceed by connecting a string line to the slope’s top and hold it in a horizontal way, take a measurement of the flight’s length and breadth. Divide the measurement by 200mm to get the number of steps that’ll be required. Then proceed to divide the number by the height to identify the depth of each step.
2. Working downwards from the flight’s top, dig the step shapes and also dig a shallow trench and install a concrete foundation.
3. Enable the foundation to harden by leaving it for about 48 hours, then install two courses of bricks on the concrete strip and use gravel to backfill.
4. With the help of a trowel, apply mortar to the top of the brickwork. Place the first slab on the mortar bed and press down. Then, make use of a spirit level to make sure that the steps are level.
5. On the back edge of the first tread, you should proceed to build the second rise, backfill and install the slab to form the second tread – just like the previous step. Repeat this process until you’ve gotten to the top of the flight.

It’s relatively simple to remove a Velux window, whether it’s Velux-branded or is another brand of roof window. Here is a breakdown of the steps you’ll need to take to remove a roof window:

1. Remove the sash (opening part) from the roof window frame. Usually there are screws in the hinges to loosen or a button to press and lift out.
2. Next, remove the tiles or slates from around the window frame along with the flashing.
3. Unscrew all the brackets around the window frame and lift out the frame.

It’s that simple! You can do all of this from inside your home – there's no need to climb on the roof. Removing the glass pane from a Velux window, for example if it has blown, is a more difficult job and should be left to a professional. It involves removing the sash from the roof window frame and then removing the surrounding parts of the sash to lift out the sealed unit. They will then place the new glazed unit into the sash frame before securing all the parts back onto the sash and fitting it back into the roof window frame.

Do Bifold Doors Open In Or Out?

If you’re considering getting bifold doors, then you’d probably want to know if it’s going to open inwards or outwards. The answer to the question is both, it can open inwards or outwards. Generally bifold doors are configured with flexibility in mind. They’re designed in such a way that allows them to be opened inwards or outwards depending on your preference or what best suits the space on which they will be installed. As a result, when you’re considering the installation of new bifolding doors in your home or property, one of the things you’ll have to take into account is whether you want your bifold doors to open inwards or outwards. Below are a couple of tips that’ll help you make the best decision as to whether your bifold doors should open inwards or outwards.

• Where you’re going to fit your bifold doors can play a huge role in determining whether they’ll open inwards or outwards. For instance, if they’re going to be fitted in your dining room, the furniture you have there will determine if there’s enough space to accommodate them inside or otherwise.

• The frequency of use will also be an influencing factor. If the door is frequently used, then a bifold door set with a traffic door which opens outwards will be more convenient for heavy daily use.

• The size of your outdoor space. Is your outdoor space restricted by your patio’s size, the decking area or garden? If yes, the opening inwards would be the best option. So also if your door opens straight out onto a pathway, you might want to make the bifold doors open inwards as well so as not to block the path.

When people talk about finishes on a wooden conservatory, there are a few different things that they may be referring to. Some may be referring to the colour and type of wood used to build the conservatory, but they may also be talking about the type of treatment used to protect the wood from the weather. We’ll cover both bases for what finish is best on a wooden conservatory here.

When you’re thinking about the best wood type and finish for the conservatory, it’s best to go with a hardwood. There are both hardwoods and softwoods, and hardwoods are the most durable. Oak is the most expensive choice but is also the most durable, so lots of people decide to go for this option. Other good choices that are slightly cheaper are Brazilian cedar and idigbo. Softwoods like European redwood or Siberian larch are cheaper still, but they won’t last as long, so it may work out more cost-effective to spend more on a hardwood.

Wood is a natural material, so it’s important to look after your wooden conservatory to prevent it from rotting or getting attacked by bugs and pests. Your conservatory will be exposed to all weathers, so you’ll need to use a good finish to ensure that it stays in tip-top condition for years to come. Your installer should be able to tell you what’s best, but some of the best finishes for a wooden conservatory include breathable varnishes and decking oil. However, if you do use an oil, it’s best to use a preservative treatment too; oil will only repel water. Joints are particularly susceptible to water penetration, so make sure you use a good wood treatment and focus on areas where water would pool during rain. Then you can apply a decking oil afterwards.