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• Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
• Timber for the frame and legs
• Type 1 MOT hardcore

1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.

We’ve all heard the common phrase that first impressions matter most. Well, this expression also applies to your home. When people arrive at your home, the door is the first thing they come in contact with and that speak volumes about the impression they’ll have about you. In modern times, there’s a large variety of choices when it comes to choosing a front door for your home in terms of style and design - from distinctive and alluring wood finish effect to elegant stained glass patterns. These are all important when it comes to choosing a front door, but one of the most significant factors is the material.

Both uPVC and composite doors have their advantages and disadvantages, so choosing one may rest on the purpose of installing the door.

UPVC Doors:

Pros

• Cost - Although composite doors are certain to deliver a great value for money, the initial spending on uPVC is lower and doesn’t put much strain on your budget

• Little Maintenance - The maintenance of a uPVC door does not go beyond wiping any stains with a damp cloth. However, this should be done carefully and regularly as extended neglect can lead to discolouration over time

Cons

• Styles - When it comes to styles, uPVC doors has a considerable lower style options compared to composite doors.

Composite Doors:

Pros

• Finishes - Composite doors offer a wider range of finishes than uPVC doors and as such, deliver greater versatility in showcasing your home’s character.

• Energy Efficient - Made from various materials glued together under intense pressure, composite doors happen to be thicker than uPVC doors and hence, a bit more energy efficient.

• Improved Security - Although both doors offer a great level of security, composite doors (due to its robust construction) are a bit more superior in this area.

Cons

• Cost - Although composite doors offer an immense value for money, the fact still remains that they’ll also stretch your budget more than uPVC doors.

Chances are at some point you’d probably given a though about how steps would fit in perfectly in your garden, except of course, your yard and garden is flat. Adding steps and gardens makes it a lot easier to get around your yard while also enhancing its curb appeal. In order to avoid the cost of hiring a professional to get the task done, you might be tempted to make it a DIY task. However, if you lack the required skill and confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you call in a professional so as to avoid costly errors. In this post, we’re going to take you through the garden steps building process. Let’s take a look!

1. Measure the vertical height of the slope by marking it with two parallel lines. Once done, proceed by connecting a string line to the slope’s top and hold it in a horizontal way, take a measurement of the flight’s length and breadth. Divide the measurement by 200mm to get the number of steps that’ll be required. Then proceed to divide the number by the height to identify the depth of each step.
2. Working downwards from the flight’s top, dig the step shapes and also dig a shallow trench and install a concrete foundation.
3. Enable the foundation to harden by leaving it for about 48 hours, then install two courses of bricks on the concrete strip and use gravel to backfill.
4. With the help of a trowel, apply mortar to the top of the brickwork. Place the first slab on the mortar bed and press down. Then, make use of a spirit level to make sure that the steps are level.
5. On the back edge of the first tread, you should proceed to build the second rise, backfill and install the slab to form the second tread – just like the previous step. Repeat this process until you’ve gotten to the top of the flight.

By replacing the single glazed windows in your home you stand to make savings of around £170 each year. It’s not just the financial gain that makes double glazing attractive though and you can also save up to 680kg of carbon emissions annually. Over 20 years this is a saving of around £3,400 and 13,600kg of CO2.

When enjoying your home to the fullest gets hindered by your staircase, getting a stairlift is definitely a great option to put into consideration. If you’re wondering exactly how stairlifts work, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we aim to give you a detailed information of stairlifts’ operating process. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it’s important to state that all stair lifts possess three main components which includes the rail, the seat as well as the drive system ( also referred to as the carriage which powers the chairlift ). Using a stairlift is pretty easy, all you need to do is sit on the seat, fasten the seatbelt and push the rocker switch located on the seat’s armrest. Once done, this will make the stairlift move smoothly up the rail.

Generally, stair lifts possess a soft start or stop to make sure the chairlift glides gently from the beginning to the end of the staircase. If you want to stop the stair lift, all you have to do is to let go of the rocker switch and the unit will automatically stop moving. After the stair lift has gotten to the end of the staircase, simply pull up a level present on the seat’s side. This will make the stairlift’s seat smoothly swivel 90 degrees and locks itself in place to make for an easy exit. What’s more? Most stairlift’s seat, arms and footrest can be folded when not in use to make sure there’s enough free space along the stairs.

What is your garage being used for? If your answer is anything besides your vehicle, you’re in the majority in the UK. In the country, according to a research by Admiralty Loans, several home and property owners now use their garage as dumping ground for all sorts of stuffs asides a car. Ultimately, this gives rise to garage conversions as the more or less underutilized space can be converted into a living space which can be more beneficial while also adding more value to the property.

A garage conversion is a fast and relatively affordable route to adding more floor space within your home. It’s basically the act of changing your garage into something other than a storage or a place in which you can park your car. This can be anything from a bedroom to a playroom and anything in between. It’s a great way to provide extra space to allow your family to spread out and have more privacy while still within the walls of your home.

A garage conversion project is a huge one which mostly does not require a planning application so far the conversion is internal. However if you’re planning to increase the garage’s size or change the exterior of your home, or convert your garage into a separate room, then you may require a planning permission before getting started. It’s always wise to consult your local authority before carrying out any work to be on the safer side.

A project of garage conversion’s magnitude is better left to a reliable professional who have the experience when it comes to dealing with building regulations and more. This way, you’d also get to save yourself some headaches and some extra cash which may result from possible costly errors.

Rendering a house comes with a plethora of benefits. Not only is it able to brighten up houses that looks tired especially those with damaged brickwork or having discoloured render, but its also the final step of external wall insulation.

If you own a 3 bed house, you’ll probably want to know just how much it’ll cost to have it rendered. If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we aim to look at the cost of rendering a house using the standard 3 bed house as an example. Firstly, it should be stated that there are numerous factors that affects the price of a rendering a house which includes the rendering type, the size of the house, the ease of access, the prep work required, whether or not scaffolding will be needed as well as your location and the quality of the contractor your hire. Out of all these factors, the most significant variables are probably the type of rendering you go for and the size of the house.

There are three types of render and the one you opt for will play a key role in the price of your 3 bed house. In this article, we’re basing our cost estimate for a 3 bed house (3 bed detached) on the size ranging from 110 per square metre to 160 per square metre. Now let’s look at the cost per square metre of each rendering type.

✓ The silicone or acrylic thin coat render is usually the most expensive option of the lot due to the fact that they’re the newest and also the best type of render. This rendering type usually costs within the range of £45 to about £75 per square metre.

✓ The monocouche modern through coloured rendering type are able to offer a decorative and waterproof finish for walls. They usually costs within the range of £35 to about £70 per square metre.

✓ Sand and cement render type is the traditional type which has been applied for several years. This rendering type usually costs within the range of £20 to about £45 per square metre.

What Is Central Air Conditioning System?

Central air conditioning system is a system which operates by cooling air at a central place and distributes the cooled air to and from rooms with the help of one or more fans and ductwork. What makes the whole idea of air conditioning feasible is the operations of the air conditioner compressor. When it cooling gas is compressed, it allows it to absorb heat from the house and blows it outside into the outside air and that’s exactly how the cool air is being generated.

Central air conditioning are of two main types which includes a split system as well as a packaged unit.

Generally, in the split system AC unit, both the condenser and compressor are included in the outdoor metal cabinet, whereas the indoor cabinet includes the evaporator. Typically, in several split system air conditioning units, the indoor cabinet will also include an air handler or a furnace. What’s more? The evaporator coil of the AC unit is fitted in the cabinet or the furnace or heat pump’s primary supply duct. This type of central air condition is usually the most economical AC unit to fit if you already have a furnace in your home.

However, in a packaged central air conditioning system, the components including condenser, compressor and evaporator are all included in one cabinet. Supply of air as well as the return ducts are connected through the home’s exterior wall or roof to the package central air conditioning system - mostly placed outdoors. This type of central air conditioners also features electric heating oil or a natural gas furnace. With this perfect blend of central heater with air conditioner, there’s simply no need to a separate furnace indoors.