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One of one of the most unfortunate parts of a woodworm invasion is that the signs of the issue are just visible at the end of the woodworm's lifecycle. This is when the woodworm beetle breaks free from within the wood to proceed its breeding.

Sign 1: Departure Holes in Wood

The signs to watch out for are what we call exit holes. When determining if you have energetic woodworm in your residential or commercial property one extremely aesthetic sign is the holes produced by the woodworm as they leave the wood. The dimension of the holes varies relying on the types of woodworm but generally they are between 2mm and also 5mm. If the woodworm trouble is energetic the holes will have a 'clean' or 'fresh' appearance. They can often just be identified up close, unless there is a huge problem as well as many departure holes with each other. Take a look at our examples below of different kinds of exit holes:

Sign 2: Presence of Bore dust

Another sign that you have an online woodworm invasion in your property is the presence of frass being left by the beetle when it chews its means with the timber. Frass is a dirt developed by woodworm. The frass or woodworm dirt is light in colour and looks virtually like very fine wood shavings. This frass is essentially woodworm waste and also it can be this waste that can aid us identify what kind of woodworm beetle is present. As an example ... the frass created by the wood-boring weevil is 'sticky' to the touch as a result of there being moisture present. The pictures below offer an indicator of what to watch out for:.

Sign 3: Tunnels within the timber brought on by woodworm.

Although this is an apparent sign that you have a woodworm issue it is additionally one of the least noticeable. The tunnels are developed by the woodworm as it makes it method via the wood.

Sign 4: Harmed wood

Damage timber is a clear sign that woodworm are causing damage to your residential or commercial property. Damage can range from weakened floorboards through to crumbling skirting boards. It is very important not to puzzle woodworm damage with the damages triggered by completely dry rot or damp rot. If you are unclear which of these home care problems are creating the damage then it is essential to speak to a hardwood expert to evaluate the lumber to prevent unnecessary treatments that might not be appropriate.

Sign 5: Actual beetles

Dead woodworm beetles might be seen near lumbers that are contaminated. Similarly, throughout the beetle 'flight period' between May and October, you could see real-time beetles as they arise from the woods. Learn more concerning the woodworm lifecycle right here.

In theory, you can fit solar panels yourself. In practice, it’s worth leaving it up to the professionals.

If you get DIY solar panels and install them on your roof yourself, you won’t be able to apply for the government-backed Smart Export Guarantee (SEG). The SEG pays you for every unit of electricity you generate and send back to the grid, so it’s a scheme well worth signing up for. However, you must have your solar panels installed by a Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS)-registered engineer or company, so you’ll miss out if you install the solar panels by yourself.

The other thing to consider about installing solar panels yourself is that you’re dealing with electricity. Electricity is extremely dangerous if handled incorrectly, so if you don’t have any qualifications in working with electricity you could be putting yourself and your family at risk. Connecting DIY solar panels yourself and doing it incorrectly could mean that you give yourself an electric shock or cause a fire. If your home is damaged due to a fire caused by solar panels you’ve installed yourself, it’s unlikely that your home insurance company would pay out.

Before having a go at installing your own solar panels, do some quick sums to see how much money it could really save you. A 3.5kW DIY solar panel kit will cost around £4,000-5,000. According to the Energy Saving Trust, a home in the South East of England where most occupants are out all day until 6pm would save around £100 a year on their electricity bills. That means that you wouldn’t break even until 40 years, but solar panels last around 25 years on average. However, if you have your solar panels installed by an MCS-registered installer and they cost £4,500, you could save £220 a year including your SEG payments. That brings the payback time to around 20 years.

So although the initial outlay is slightly less when you install solar panels yourself, it’s much better to have them installed by an MCS-registered engineer so you can take advantage of the SEG payments.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

The OLEV Grant, also known as Electric Vehicle Homecharge Scheme (EVHS) can reduce the cost of your home charger by up to £350. If you're eligible, you'll be able to claim it when you buy an EV charger.

If you’re planning to build a single story house extension, this is one of the first questions that usually comes to mind to help you set a budget and start to make plans. But as simple as it seems, a single accurate answer can not be provided due to the fact that there are several variables that can play a key role in influencing the price of a single story house extension. These variables includes the size, location, design or specification as well as the build route. In this guide, we’ll provide you with a rough estimate that you can work with to put you on the right path.

The main determinant of the cost of a single storey extension is the size of the build, while the next most relevant factor is the quality of the finish you opt for. For a small extension, you can expect to spend a sum within the range of £14,000 to £17,000. Meanwhile for a larger single storey extension, if you opt for a large wrap around the extension with a great amount of glass to be incorporated in both the walls and roof, you can expect to pay a sum within the range of £80,000 to £120,000.

Overall, the average cost of a single story house extension is usually within the range of £34,000 to £37,000. For this price, you should get a standard sized rear or side extension which also includes the cost of a kitchen - it’s the most commonly use for a single story extension especially in the UK.

There are some additional costs you may also need to factor in to your extension budget. These includes surveys, architect fees, planning application fee (if needed), insurance and Party Wall Agreement (if needed).

Finding a builder nearby can have enormous assistance when it comes to your build. Period on site, their familiarity of local planning permission, constructors’ dealers and other local trades are all vital bits of knowledge that you’ll welcome on site.

It is always wise to walk around in your local area or drive to a site where any construction work is going on. It’ll give you a proper impression of the constructors who are active nearby. You don’t have to like their style of work or the project they are currently carrying out – after all, a builder can only produce what’s on the plans in front of them.

Find a Builder Other Tradesmen Recommend

If you’ve had to call an electrician before or a local plumber and liked their work, you can always ask them if they have any builders whom they would recommend. Maximum tradesmen get used to seeing the similar acquainted names from one place to another in the sites they are working on and every so often has favourites for who they like to work with — and who they see as a good source of work.

Always Talk to Previous Customers

Once you’ve found a builder you would like to work with, ask them for a list of previous customers they have worked with; they ought to be glad to offer particulars if they’re self-assured they’ve done an effective job.

Look for a builder online

A decent place to start looking for builders online is on sites like the ours so that you can find quality tradespeople and see genuine reviews from previous customers. Not all online review sites can be trusted to display real reviews.

Many examples of asbestos will not need removing, for example if it is present in artex that is in good condition. However, if you are carrying out building work on or near the asbestos it should be carefully removed before the building work starts to make sure it is not accidentally disturbed.