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No, you will need a satellite dish to receive a satellite signal for services like Sky or Freesat, as these are specific channels and programmes only broadcast via this medium. These can be installed in a similar way to a standard TV aerial by a recognised engineer.

While some people may see bifold doors as insecure, many bifold doors feature advanced security measures. Internally beaded strengthened double glazing is very secure. Choose a bifold door with a multi-point locking system for enhanced security. If your house is empty for long periods, always consider a blind solution to keep prying eyes out of your home.

If your boiler is leaking, there are some checks that you can do yourself. However, you should never attempt to repair your boiler yourself – only a Gas Safe-registered engineer should conduct repairs.

There are 3 main reasons why your boiler might be leaking: there’s a pressure valve fault, a temperature valve leak or corrosion in the system. An engineer will be able to spot the problem quickly, but in the meantime there are a few things you can do:

Check the pipe fittings

If your boiler is leaking water around the pipe fittings, it could be an installation fault and you should get in touch with the engineer that fitted it. You can check the pipe fittings by drying the area then waiting to see if the water appears again. If it does, you may be able to do a ¼ turn of the pipe to stop it. However, you should still call the engineer that installed it to ask them to check the PTFE tape on the inside.

Inspect the seals

Over time, the rubber seals on a boiler can start to perish, so if you have an old boiler this could be the source of your leak. If you have a new boiler, it could be caused by your boiler running over pressure.

Heat exchanger corrosion

Unfortunately, if a boiler engineer discovers that the boiler is leaking water from the heat exchanger, this is the end of the road for your system. The heat exchanger is the most expensive part of your boiler, so it makes more financial sense to replace your boiler with a newer, more efficient model rather than try to replace it.

A roof serves as something which is so much more than just a top of a building. A roof delivers guard from the elements and precipitation, it also helps drain water from a structure, and helps to provide insulation to the structure allowing it to keep the interior of a building cool or warm, according to season.

There are several steps to building a roof

Mount the trusses.

This step requires the building’s wall frames to be completely level, square and plumb. If you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame you must use ladders or scaffolding. Hoist the trusses onto the roof.

Install temporary braces.

You will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed, this has to be done before you install the trusses. At the centre of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud.

Install the end trusses.

Install the two end trusses at the front and back of the building, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. The batten you take will have to be a bit longer than the distance will separate the trusses.

Install the standard trusses.

According to the instructions provided by the manufacturer, you will first need to install the first standard truss. You will also need to nail it to the batten from the first truss.

Sheath the roof.

Once your trusses permanently braced, you can begin with the sheathing of the roof. Starting from the bottom corner and moving across the bottom, the sheathing is installed lengthwise.

Install the roof cover.

Like the sheathing and underlayment procedures, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. The shingles should be staggered, and they should also overlap at the same time. You will need to work up to the ridge and use a ridge cap shingles to finish the ridge.

Yes. Residential architects are invaluable and will be able to manage the application process as well as offer you advice on the best way to design your building to satisfy the local authority. They can also help with ideas as well as advising on what is possible and what is not possible.

How Much Is A Septic Tank?

If you’re living in the rural area, then you’d have a better idea of the septic tank concept and know that it’s installation is a very common job due to difficulty in accessing the mains sewage system. The system takes care of all the scum, sludge and waste water coming from the pipes all around the house in rooms like showers, sinks, toilets, laundry room and more. There are a lot of factors that you’ll have to consider as they all affect the price of replacing or installing a septic tank system. These influencing factors include the drainage systems, the underground or overground location, material, your location as well as labour.

However, generally, the average cost of material for a medium sized septic tank would typically cost within the range of £600 to about £800, while a large septic tank would be around £1000 to about £1,200. What’s more? The average cost to install a septic tank system with the material cost,labour cost and waste removal cost at heart normally ranges between £1,500 to about £2,000.

The material used is also a very common price determinant. Concrete happens to be the most common choice for many homeowners due to the fact that it’s very affordable and also durable ( can last u to 30 years). Generally, the cost for concrete septic tanks should range between £600 to £1,200.

Another pocket friendly option is plastic septic tanks because of its light material. Although, it’s made of plastic but they’re not vulnerable to cracks. They may, however, be affected by soil pressure in harsh conditions. They price usually ranges between £700 to £1,500.

Finally, the more expensive option which is the fibreglass which comes with a number of benefits. They won’t deteriorate or crack underground and can last up to 50 years. This type normally cost within the range of £1,000 to £2,000.

How To Repair A Pothole In Gravel Driveways

When the integrity of your gravel driveway is impaired not only does it have a negative impact on the curb appeal of your property, but also makes your driveway a danger zone. If your driveway needs to be repaired, you’d simply have to grab the bull by the horn and get it done - the sooner, the better to avoid the problem getting worse and to have your beautiful gravel driveway back as soon as possible.

The major cause of potholes in driveways is usually water, when it gets trapped beneath the surface of the driveway. Therefore, you may also want to enhance the drainage in the area as part of your repair. The repair process is quite simple for confident do-it-yourselfers, but if otherwise, then calling in a reliable professional will save you some time and extra money that can result from possible errors. So how do you repair gravel driveway potholes?

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing all forms of debris from the pothole. To achieve this, you can rake, shovel or brush the loose stones, soil and other debris from the pothole.

✓ Fill the pot hole. Make use of a coarse gravel to fill up the pothole to a depth of about 3 inches beneath the driveway’s level. Upon the filling, simply tamp down the coarse gravel using a commercial tamper or any available homemade option. Once done, the final 3 inches to the surface of the gravel driveway should then be filled up with gravel which perfectly matches the colour and texture of the remaining driveway.

✓ Compact the patch. To achieve this in an easy and fast way, simply run your car’s wheel up and down over the repaired spot gently a couple of times. This will be enough to compact the patch and seal the pothole.

Are you interested in fitting a ground source heat hump in your home? If yes, then one of the thing you’d probably like to know is whether or not the heat pump is noisy. In this article, we seek to provide you with necessary information that’ll solve these mystery.

One thing you should when it comes to heating products is that they all make some noise. However, they’re usually a lot quieter when compared to fossil fuel heating systems. Generally, a ground source heat pump can reach within the range of 40 to 60 decibels depending on the manufacturer of the product as well as it’s installation.

The noise levels of heat pumps are a major concern for several homeowners. However, the fact is when the system becomes a nuisance or becomes noisy, that is always a sign of poor planning as well as poor quality installation. This is because heat pumps, in general, are not usually noisy.

In ground source heat pumps, volume isn’t quite associated due to the lack of a fan unit. However, it remains a very common question for homeowners who intends to install a ground source heat pump to ask whether or not the type of heat pump is noisy. Just like any other heating product, there are components in the ground source heat pump that produces some noise but this is always not as much as that of an air source heat pump. This is due to the fact that the heat coming from the ground is more consistent, hence the compressor’s power capacity wouldn’t be as high. What’s more? This type of heat pump doesn’t also work at full throttle which also plays a key role in its low noise level.