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How To Install A Septic Tank

If you’re planning to get a new septic tank system or replace the existing one, you’d probably want to know if it’s a task you can do all by yourself especially if you happen to be a competent DIYer. However, unless you’re a heavy equipment operator, installation of a septic tank system is by no means a DIY project. And even if you have the heavy machine at your disposal and you know quite well how to use it, you’re still going to need the guidance of professionals.

You’re going to need the services of a soil expert to evaluate the site, a plumbing contractor to fit and connect pipes, an engineer to design a good system and more. You may want to be involved in all these but local health authorities requires that a licensed personnel should be in charge. In this article, however, you’ll discover the septic tank system installation process.

To install a traditional septic tank system, you’ll have to start by digging a hole for the tank following strictly the instructions provided on your approved plan by the local authorities. Do not drop the tank into the hole after digging, you’ll need to connect it to the building sewer with 3 or 4 inch waste pipe which should be at a minimum slope towards the tank. Then, extend a drain pipe from the other end of a tank to a the distribution box on the drain field.

Once completed, dig several parallel trenches of this box extension across the drain field. Put in a layer of gravel along with 3 to 4 inch perforated pipes in individual trench and connect the pipes with the distribution box and cover them once done.

There are several benefits that can be derived from insulating your garage door. Not only can it reduce your energy bills and protect your garage’s content from elements, but can also go a long way to increase the return on your property’s value, reduce noise, increase the garage door’s strength and deliver a more convenient garage and home. Insulating your garage is a task you can actually take on by yourself. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you leave it for a reliable professional who can ensure the project is done right, the first time - saving you both time and money. This guide will give you a good insight on how you can go about the project.

To insulate your garage, you’ll need a fibreglass insulation, garage door insulation, expanding foam, drywall, gloves and long sleeves, wood, sharp utility knife as well as a staple gun and staples. Now let’s take a look at the garage door insulation process!

lClear The Walls

• Remove the drywall (if present)

• Clean out the dirt and stud cavities.

• Wipe out any chemicals in the garage like gasoline.

lIdentify Gaps & Cracks In The Wall

• Shake your expanding foam vigorously for about a minute.

• Attach the straw to the can and use it to spray the wall openings.

• Fill the gaps until its 50% full

• Leave the foam to fill the openings completely in about 5 to 15 minutes. It should be hardened or completely cured within 6 to 8 hours.

lInstall Fibreglass Insulation

• Staple the insulation’s paper face to the side of the stud and not the face.

• Place a piece of wwod on the insulation’s top to act as a guide to properly cut the insulation to size.

• Cut the excess insulation with a utility knife.

• Tuck in the insulation to make for easier stapling.

• Staple the insulation down to the stud’s side.

lUse Drywall To Cover The Insulation

• Screw and glue the drywall to the stud.

• Do not leave the insulation’s paper exposed.

How To Remove Tile Adhesive From Wall

Do you feel your tile design choices are outdated and want to replace it with a more stylish one? Or perhaps you’re just struggling to remove the old tile adhesive from your wall. Putting on a new wallpaper or repainting your wall might be a cup of tea, but retiling is surely a different experience altogether. After detaching every single piece of tile from the wall, you’ll still have the strongly glued adhesive to battle with. If not done properly, you may as well damage the wall which will trigger a new additional cost for repair. We’d recommend you get a professional helping hand for the best results if you’re without a proper training or experience. However, this guide will teach you everything you need to know about the process. Let’s get started!

Materials Required

• Steamer

• Protective sheets

• 4-inch scraper

• Clean cloth

• Protective gear - face mask, eye goggles, gloves.

Tile Adhesive Removal Process

• Cover The Floor

Ensure that the floor is well covered to collect the residues falling off from the wall with some protective sheets.

• Heat Up The Adhesive

Using the wallpaper steamer, heat up the adhesive to make it a bit loose and softer. Do this by slowly moving the steamer around and ensure not to stay on one spot for too long.

• Scrape Off The Mortar

When you can tell the adhesive is properly softened, use the 4 inch scraper to wipe it off the wall. Do this until all the adhesive has been completely removed.

• Clear Out The Fallen Residue

Clean up any mortar that has fallen on the floor.

After the tile adhesive removal, your wall may need to be skimmed depending on its state. This is to put the surface in a good and flat condition before installing the new tiles. The wall may also need to be re-plastered if the adhesive is extremely strong.

Plasterboard or drywall is simply gypsum plaster covered from both sides by thick paper layers. It’s known to be a highly versatile product used on both interior walls and ceiling as a result of its numerous advantages. This popular material in residential buildings can be designed to be fire resistant, humidity resistant and noise resistant. They have a low impact on the environment, while also being quite easy to repair and perfect to hide stuffs from plain sight. Most home and property owners in the UK have this material installed in their space as despite the multiple benefits, they’re also quite affordable. However, if you’re thinking about installing a plasterboard on your ceiling, one challenge you’re likely to face is determining the appropriate plasterboard thickness to incorporate as this make or mar your entire project. In this post, we’re going to take a look at the right plasterboard thickness for ceiling so as to help you make an informed decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, let’s consider the size of the plasterboard sheet. The standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much-needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths. Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

Central air conditioning system is a system which operates by cooling air at a central place and distributes the cooled air to and from rooms with the help of one or more fans and ductwork. What makes the whole idea of air conditioning feasible is the operations of the air conditioner compressor. When it cooling gas is compressed, it allows it to absorb heat from the house and blows it outside into the outside air and that’s exactly how the cool air is being generated.

Central air conditioning are of two main types which includes a split system as well as a packaged unit.

Generally, in the split system AC unit, both the condenser and compressor are included in the outdoor metal cabinet, whereas the indoor cabinet includes the evaporator. Typically, in several split system air conditioning units, the indoor cabinet will also include an air handler or a furnace. What’s more? The evaporator coil of the AC unit is fitted in the cabinet or the furnace or heat pump’s primary supply duct. This type of central air condition is usually the most economical AC unit to fit if you already have a furnace in your home.

However, in a packaged central air conditioning system, the components including condenser, compressor and evaporator are all included in one cabinet. Supply of air as well as the return ducts are connected through the home’s exterior wall or roof to the package central air conditioning system - mostly placed outdoors. This type of central air conditioners also features electric heating oil or a natural gas furnace. With this perfect blend of central heater with air conditioner, there’s simply no need to a separate furnace indoors.

Ponding is where you see pools of water appearing on your flat roof. Unless your roof is leaking or showing other signs of damage, you don’t need to replace it. When you do have your flat roof replaced, tell the contractor so they can find out the cause of the ponding.

Speaking to the owners of the neighbouring properties is recommended. If you are still unsure, you may need to check the original deeds to the property. Generally the rule is that you are responsible for the fence at the right hand side of your property.

Velux windows actually refer to one brand of roof window, which are windows that sit in your roof space and allow light and ventilation into your loft. But how do you install a Velux window? If you’re a competent DIYer, it’s not as difficult as you might think.

You can normally install roof windows entirely from the inside, so you don’t need to get up on your roof or hire costly scaffolding. They come with detailed installation instructions, so as long as you follow them you shouldn’t have much trouble.

Before you start, you’ll need to read up on the Building Regulations and Planning Permission laws. Speak to your local Building Control department if you have any questions.

Firstly, prepare the opening by removing enough tiles or slates from the roof. There’s no need to go out on the roof – access them by cutting away the felt underneath which will give you access to the tiles and battens. Cut away one of the battens from under a tile, then you can slide all the tiles into the roof space. You’ll need to cut away the roof timbers to make the right size opening, then add more timbers to strengthen the ones that are left.

Next, remove the opening sash from the new roof window then fit the frame into the new opening using the brackets provided with the window. Then fit roof flashing between the new window and the roof so you don’t get any leaks. Then lay your tiles back in position around the new Velux window; you’ll probably have to cut some to shape which you can do with an angle grinder. Always cut them on the ground, not in position on the roof.

Lastly, fit the sash back onto the window and you’re done!

If this sounds like too much hard work, plenty of window installers will be able to help you fit a Velux window and will probably be able to provide a much cleaner finish.