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How To Install A Gas Cooktop In An Island

Are you thinking about installing a gas cooktop in your kitchen island? If yes, then you must know that there are clearance requirements that must be met (before you proceed) between the cut out and the countertop’s edge. Basically, there are incremental requirements for island installation due to the fact that it does not make an assumption that the product is going to be fitted against a rear wall that acts to protect the back of the unit. As a result, while doing an island install we must put the safety of the product into consideration much more that we do a standard install. What’s more? This island clearance requirement develops from a third-party agency and is a standard with all brands. So how do you install a gas cooktop in an island having the aforementioned requirements in mind?

• Use a foil tape to line the inside edges of the cut out. The function of this is to prevent heat damage as well as countertop’s discolouration. Put the cooktop top on a secured surface.

• Identify the pipe coming out of the cooktop’s side or bottom and brush onto the threads of the manifold entrance.

• Pass the pressure regulator onto the entrance of the manifold and make use of a wrench to tighten it.

• Brush the pipe joint compound onto one of the flare union adaptor’s threads and pass it into the regulator’s open end. Make it slightly tight with a full turn of the wrench.

• Connect the flare union adaptor’s open end with the flexible appliance connector hose, upon brushing on pipe joint compound.

• Put foam tape on the cooktop underside’s edges, if your cooktop comes with a glass burner plate.

• Turn the cooktop to set it into the cutout.

• Apply pipe-joint compound onto the flare union adaptor left and secure it firmly into the gas shutout valve.

• Connect the flexible hose connector’s free end with the flare union adaptor.

Rendering a house comes with a plethora of benefits. Not only is it able to brighten up houses that looks tired especially those with damaged brickwork or having discoloured render, but its also the final step of external wall insulation.

If you own a 3 bed house, you’ll probably want to know just how much it’ll cost to have it rendered. If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we aim to look at the cost of rendering a house using the standard 3 bed house as an example. Firstly, it should be stated that there are numerous factors that affects the price of a rendering a house which includes the rendering type, the size of the house, the ease of access, the prep work required, whether or not scaffolding will be needed as well as your location and the quality of the contractor your hire. Out of all these factors, the most significant variables are probably the type of rendering you go for and the size of the house.

There are three types of render and the one you opt for will play a key role in the price of your 3 bed house. In this article, we’re basing our cost estimate for a 3 bed house (3 bed detached) on the size ranging from 110 per square metre to 160 per square metre. Now let’s look at the cost per square metre of each rendering type.

✓ The silicone or acrylic thin coat render is usually the most expensive option of the lot due to the fact that they’re the newest and also the best type of render. This rendering type usually costs within the range of £45 to about £75 per square metre.

✓ The monocouche modern through coloured rendering type are able to offer a decorative and waterproof finish for walls. They usually costs within the range of £35 to about £70 per square metre.

✓ Sand and cement render type is the traditional type which has been applied for several years. This rendering type usually costs within the range of £20 to about £45 per square metre.

What Is A Gas Safety Certificate?

Do you wish to know what a Gas Safety Certificate is and if you need to get one?

If you’re in the UK and you own a rental property, you have a statutory obligation to obtain a Gas Safety Certificate. The law ( Gas Safety - Installation and Use, Regulations 1998) stipulates that landlords as a matter of necessity should have all their gas appliances, fittings,and property flues subjected to yearly checks in order to ensure that they’re are totally safe.

The Gas Safety Certificate can be referred to in a number of ways which includes Landlord Gas Safety Record ( LGSR) or CORGI PROFORMA 12 (CP12). The later dating back to when the official body for gas safety in the UK was CORGI. However, the official body is now known as Gas Safe, hence it’s now usually called a Gas Safety Certificate or something along that line. But regardless of whatever you choose to call it, as long as you reside in the UK, it’s crucial to know that if you need one as soon as possible. So how do know if you need a Gas Safety Certificate?

If you’re a homeowner with a property that you live in, you’re not required by the law to obtain a Gas Safety Certificate. There’s nothing like a homeowner’s gas safety certificate, however we’d recommend you subject all you gas appliances and pipework to yearly examinations to ensure they’re functioning properly and safely.

If you’re a landlord in the UK, you’re required by the law to get a Gas Safety Certificate to ensure your property is safe for your tenants. You must reach out to an approved Gas Safe engineer who’ll carry out annual checks on your appliances to ensure that they’re totally safe.

Slab paving is a great material to use to create a sturdy shed base.

Start by measuring out the area where your shed is going to be. This needs to be the size of your shed, plus about 10-20cm extra each way. Mark it out with string and pegs, make sure it’s square, and dig it down to about 6cm deep.

Then create a sand and cement mixture and put a layer down, followed by your paving slabs. Make sure you start in one corner and use a rubber mallet and spirit level to make sure they’re as level as possible. Leave this to set and you’re ready to use your shed base.

The OLEV Grant, also known as Electric Vehicle Homecharge Scheme (EVHS) can reduce the cost of your home charger by up to £350. If you're eligible, you'll be able to claim it when you buy an EV charger.

You must use a builder or scaffolding outworker who is skilled and knowledgeable to put up scaffolding. This means they require to have the essential skills, knowledge and familiarity to be able to accomplish health and safety. A capable scaffolder will hold an effective Construction Industry Record Scheme (CISRS) Card – it is up to your agent to check that this person is capable before any work begins.

When should scaffolding be checked for safety?

According to the law, the user of the scaffolding must check it to ensure that it is safe:

• Before they first use it

• After every seven days after putting it is up

• After any alterations, or damage due to extreme weather conditions

When do you need scaffolding?

It is up to your trader to evaluate the level of hazard and use a suitable apparatus. Repairing or replacing a single tile is never going to be same as installing solar panels that are high up 30 storeys high. Everything is dependent on the type of work and the risks involved. Traders need to guarantee that their staff will remain safe as they work on your property. This means working from the ground if possible. If they need to work at higher altitudes, they must minimise the danger of falling by using present safe roof zones or scaffolding.

You wouldn’t need a license if your builder has to put up scaffolding inside your property premises. However, if the scaffolding has to go out on the pavement or anywhere outside your premises, your builder or scaffolder needs to get a license from the building council.

Insurance

Scaffolders face an inimitable set of hazards due to working at high altitudes. Builders or scaffolding organizations require insurance that covers those risks, together with public liability insurance to cover any damage to the public triggered by falling items from the scaffold as well as employers’ liability insurance to cover their persons if they are wounded while working at height. This is an important thing to check before any other work begins.

If you’re thinking about installing a carpet on your floor, one of the most important things you’d have to put into consideration before you proceed is the most suitable type of underlay to ensure your carpet is placed appropriately and maximum value is derived. This is a common issue for several homeowners and we aim to help you clear the worries once and for all. In this post, we’re going to consider the best underlay for your carpet to help you make the best informed decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

In all honesty, there’s no straightforward answer to this question as the best carpet underlay depends on a number of factors. These factors include the type of carpet you wish to install, the type of flooring it will sit on ( e.g, concrete or underfloor heating), your budget, the room you’re laying the underlay in as well as your personal preferences in terms of durability, comfort, noise reduction and more.

When a carpet underlay is carefully selected, it’ll act as a shock absorber - perfect for protecting your floors against high traffic and impact, making sure that your carpeted floor looks good and healthy for a long period of time.

Generally, the best carpet underlay for bedrooms will be a thick, sponge rubber underlay or a wool combination felt variation which guarantees your comfort. For living rooms and lounges, the best carpet underlay would be one that is sumptuous and velvety soft to provide a comfortable floor. For dining rooms, you’d be smart to get a good quality hard-wearing carpet underlay as this area is one of the most frequently occupied areas in the home.

Your TV and aerial need to be connected by coaxial cable for your TV to work. Most properties have wall mounted connection boxes – similar to electrical plugs – that you can simply plug your TV into. If you don’t have a cable, it’s easy to pick up one from most DIY shops.

If you’re installing a new outside aerial, you may be able to reuse the old cable. If you can’t, you’ll need to route a new one down from your aerial to any sockets you need. Coaxial cable can be routed down the exterior of your property, through loft spaces, under floors and along skirting boards.