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1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar

If you’re having issues with the amount of space in your home and need an extra space without affecting your garden, loft conversion comes to mind. Not only is it a great solution to creating more living space within a home, but it’s also one of the most budget-friendly solutions you can count on to expand your space by thinking upwards rather than sideways. So if you’re thinking about converting your loft, one thing that almost immediately comes to mind is whether or not your house is suitable for loft conversion.

To answer the question of whether every house can have a loft conversion is a very simple one. Generally, not every house is suitable for loft conversion. This is due to the fact that each and every loft space - from the stairways below and floors to the rafters and the roof up above, is unique. Therefore, the best way to really figure out whether or not a house’s loft offers the potential for conversion is to get in touch with a loft specialist.

So what can make a house not suitable for a loft conversion? Let’s take a closer look!

✓ A house will not be suitable for a loft conversion if the height of the ceiling happens to be too low and it’ll not be possible to have it raised.

✓ If you do not own own the freehold to the loft space, you won’t be able to convert the loft. Surprisingly, this happens to be a common issue in London.

✓ You will not be able to convert your loft if you reside in a conservation area or in a listed building. But you can identify a design solution that’ll still comply with the conservation rules and keep planners happy.

If you feel your sewer line is clogged, the best course of action is to have it cleared as soon as possible and even more so, by an experienced professional. When left untreated, this can lead to water leakages which can damage your home or business facility. And in serious situations, it can lead to pipe burst which will definitely cost you a lot more money to fix when compared to taking a quick action to unclog the sewer line blockages. If you’re thinking about hiring a professional, then you’d probably want to know how much its going to cost. In this post, we’re going to look at the cost of clearing a sewer line and the possible influencing factors.

The cost of clearing sewer lines depend on a number of factors. These factors include the type of the blockage, the method used, the location of the property as well as the ease of access. Using the blockage type as an example, a small blockage in a toilet or sink is usually priced within the range of £50 to about £70. However, for an extensive blockage deep in your sewer lines, you may end up incurring anything within the range of £150 to about £200.

There are also a bunch of methods that can be used to clear blockages from a sewer line which will also play a key role in the final cost of the service. These methods include drain jetting which usually costs within the range of £70 to £175, drain rodding from £80 to about £145 as well as a full system scrub which should cost about £150 to £200.

Do note that the above costs are just an estimate and other factors as mentioned earlier on will also come into play.

How much a flat roof costs to repair depends on a few factors. Is your flat roof on a garage or an extension? What is the flat roof made from? It’s always best to get a few quotes to compare prices, but we’ll give you a rough idea here. If your flat roof was installed in the 1990s or earlier, it’s likely that you’ll see some leaks or damage soon. Felt flat roofs used to be installed completely flat, which meant that water couldn’t run off. That means that water pools and can create moss and damp. Sun exposure can also damage the felt, causing damage and eventually holes that lead to leaks. If you’re lucky enough to have got away with just needing a flat roof repair, this should set you back an average of £100 per square metre. If your roof is sagging due to the weight of it putting pressure on the timber frame, you might need additional joists – which could cost anywhere between £1,000 and £2,000, depending on how many you need. But if the problem is due to the internal part of the roof system becoming waterlogged, you could be looking at over £5,000. If your roof is severely leaking or the timber joists are rotting, it might be more cost effective to replace your flat roof. If you keep forking out for repairs, it will eventually be cheaper just to replace the whole thing, which could cost around £2,000.

If you’re thinking about having your asbestos removed, you have two options - either you take on the project yourself or you call in a reliable professional for help. If you do not have enough time on your plate or perhaps you’re not confident enough to carry out this project on your own, then you’d have to reach out to an expert and of course, it comes with a cost.

The cost of removing asbestos is, however, not fixed as it depends on many factors. These factors works to decrease or increase the cost of removing asbestos. The factors include the type of asbestos material that needs to be removed, if the material can be encapsulated rather than removed, if the material has been sampled and tested, the location where the works would be carried out, size of the area, the accessibility of the asbestos, if other sites users or neighbours will be affected as well as the type of the building be it residential, commercial, industrial.

With a plethora of important things to put into consideration, it’s therefore essential to call in a qualified, competent and professional asbestos removal company to provide a reasonable quote for your unique project. Generally, in the UK, you can expect to pay the approximate cost of around £1000 or less for smaller areas. However, for larger areas the cost of removing such an asbestos will cost you considerably more. The cost can be within the range of £2500 and above in the UK.

These prices may seem high at first but its definitely worth it when you look at it’s possible effect on the health of you and your loved ones.

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

If you’ve got a problem with condensation and don’t have double glazing, you should find that getting new windows will help. Condensation is caused by warm air meeting a cold surface which then turns into water droplets. With two panes of glass, less heat will escape from your home and keep the window warmer, meaning when steam from the bathroom or kitchen touches your windows there should be less condensation.

Do you want to install a new patio? If yes, then on top of the agenda will definitely be the cost of paving slabs. However providing a single and accurate estimate to the cost of your new patio is almost impossible as there are many factors that can influence what the price would be. These factors include the size of the area, the choice of stone, installations and lots more.

To get a more accurate estimate of your cost there’s is the need to look at some factors before calculation. These includes envisioning your patio as well as putting the drainage in mind. Firstly, you’ll need to decide where you want your patio to be - this should include considering whether you’ll get enough privacy sitting on your patio and more. If you’re able to identify where to put your patio, you’ll be able to have a clearer idea of the potential shape and size of the patio. Secondly, there’s a need to consider the drainage because failure to provide adequate drainage will only result in storing of water which leads to a development of algae or vegetation across your patio.

The material you opt for is also a huge determinant of your patio’s cost. When it comes to paving slabs you’ll only get what you pay for. Deciding to go for cheaper paving slabs will most likely lead to frequent staining, slippery surface, tough maintenance as well as constant cracking. Consequently, the act of cutting back on the cost of paving slabs will only you cost you more money in the long run. What’s more? If you have an existing patio you’d like to replace, then you’d probably need to include the cost of removing the existing one.