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Are Floor Tiles Expensive?

Are you considering installing floor tiles in your home or office? Just like many other home and property owners, this is one of the many questions that first pops up. Floor tiles can add colour and texture to your living space and comes in various shapes and sizes. The cost of floor tiles depends on a wide range of factors such as the type of floor tiles as well as the quality. The cheapest of them all is the vinyl tiles which can be easily cut through and waterproof when properly sealed. As a result, making them a better fit for bathroom floors. Other kinds of tiles include ceramic tiles, mosaic tiles, quarry tiles and porcelain tiles. Each of the types have their own unique qualities including the quarry tiles’ durability and the afore-mentioned vinyl tiles’ waterproof qualities.

Having in mind that the major part of your floor tiles cost largely depends on the type selected, you can then go ahead to contact your preferred tiling professional for an installation only quote ( this can go a long way to help control the overall cost). The quote provided will, of course, be based on the room’s size as well as your preferred choice of tiles. The average price of bathroom floor tiles installation ranges about £20 to £25 per square metre. Meanwhile for a kitchen floor tiling project of about 8 square metres in size, the cost should range between £500 to £600 ( this quote includes both installation cost and all the materials included).

Finding a tiling professional you can rely on to complete your project and delivery a top quality job while also offering a very competitive price can be almost impossible. The professional you use greatly determines the price of your floor tiling effort, so there’s the need to review various professionals before making a decision.

If a tap is leaking, it may simply be a loose valve or washer. However, if these appear to be sufficiently tight, you should contact a plumber, who will be able to investigate and rectify the leak. Do not attempt to fix leaking or damaged pipes, always call a plumber in straight away.

How To Tile A Kitchen Floor

Tiling your kitchen floor can seem a daunting task at first glance, but is a skill that can be mastered after a couple of practices. With this simple guide, you will find it easier to satisfy your kitchen floor tiling needs.

lPrepare The Subfloor

• Ensure the subfloor is very secure to support both the tile and the people working across it.

• If necessary, you can strengthen the kitchen floor with the help of a vinyl, heavy felt or any other good backer board.

• After successfully securing the floor, proceed to clear out all dust and dirt.

lMix The Mortar

• Mix a thinset mortar be referring to the instructions on the package. ( Mix only the quantity you can apply within 30 minutes).

• Once the mixture looks similar to the thickness of mayonnaise, allow it to rest for about 10 minutes before application.

lApply The Mortar

• Apply a thin layer of mortar

• Do not cover extensive areas as the mortar can become very dry.

• Spread the mortar with a trowel in curved patterns to make it flat on the floor.

lSet The Tile

• Set down the tile slowly, apply a little pressure until its holds firmly to the surface. ( Apply a consistent amount of pressure throughout to ensure equal heights for all the tiles)

• Continue with the process until all full tiles are well positioned

lCut The Tiles

• Once all the full tile pieces are in place, start cutting to cover the edges requiring smaller tile pieces.

• Take accurate measurements of the outer edges needing smaller tile pieces.

• Cut the tile pieces to fit the measurement taken with the help of a wet saw or hand tile cutter.

lGrouting

• Remove all spacers and mortar residues and lay the grout

• Apply the grout along the tiles’ seams with a grout float

• Clean out excess grout with a damp sponge after leaving it to dry for about 30 minutes

• Once the grout is fully dried, apply the sealer (the drying process normally takes within 3 to 4 days).

For the best results, it’s advisable to contact a tiling professional for help when it comes to kitchen floor tiling especially if you have no training or prior experience. This way, you can get the best quality and also avoid the regrettable mistakes and extra costs that’s very common with newbies.

The fact is several buildings contain artex as well as other textured coating on walls and ceilings which are all likely to contain asbestos. However, artex itself is not the main threat here but the potentially deadly harmful fibres that’s contained in it. In this post, we’re going to look at whether or not artex truly contains the deadly abestos.

The short and simply answer to this question is yes, artex can definitely contain asbestos, however not all artex will contain asbestos. The main reason asbestos was a popular construction material is because it was not only cheap and strong but also because it was very durable and long lasting. It was used in numerous construction materials ( which includes artex ) before it was finally banned in the year 1999. unfortunately during the time when artex was very popular in the 60’s, 70’s as well as 80’s, asbestos was still very much in use during the period. And as a result, a lot of the artex incorporated during that period will contain the deadly asbestos fibres. However, this does not only apply to artex, but also other textured coatings containing asbestos were incorporated in construction until 1999 when asbestos was formerly banned in the UK. These asbestos containing materials are often used on walls as well as ceilings of residential properties.

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to know an asbestos containing artex just by looking at it. In order to determine whether or not an artex contains the deadly asbestos fibres, it’ll have to be sampled and tested in a laboratory. What’s more? While several artex contains asbestos, asbestos free artex was available from the 1970s. However, since it’s impossible to determine using the naked eye, all artex installed before the ban will be assumed to contain asbestos.

A bedroom is meant to be a quiet zone and personal getaway from the chaos of the outside world. However, there are times when the noise coming from the outside would just be too unbearable to put up with. You can’t always control the noise that surrounds your bedroom and even more so when it comes from the neighbours’ house or the streets. The best solution here would be to mitigate this with some simple soundproofing solutions. These are tricks can you can do by yourself, however if you’re not confident enough to pull this off, then it’s advisable to get in touch with a seasoned professional for help. In this guide, we’re going to walk you through the bedroom soundproofing techniques. Let’s take a look!

• Cover the gap under the door. One of the means through which sound can travel into your bedroom is beneath your bedroom door. In order to tackle this in an effective way, you can close it by adhering rubber weather stripping to the bottom of the door.
• Upgrade the door of your bedroom. If your bedroom has a hollow core door which possesses a thin outer layer of wood with plastic or cardboard inside, then you’re likely to be feel more noise in your personal space than if you install a solid wood door. Making use of a heavy duty solid wood door will help block out unwanted noises from your room.
• Put the sound in the cloud. The solution may actually lie in the cloud particularly a ceiling cloud which is an acoustical foam cloud that is hung from the room’s ceiling to block out echoes and absorb noises.

1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

Fibreglass, or GRP, flat roofs are very durable and should last you years, but over time they can become brittle and you might see some cracks or holes forming. Luckily, you can repair a fibreglass flat roof and it doesn’t have to be too difficult. Cracks in a fibreglass flat roof If you notice long cracks in your fibreglass roof, you can often use a fibreglass crack sealant. Simply clean the area, squeeze the sealant into the crack, then smooth it off. If you want it to look neater, you could coat the entire roof with a restorative coating which will make it look new again. Hole in a fibreglass roof If you notice a hole in your fibreglass flat roof, you’ll want to get this repaired as soon as possible to avoid any rainwater getting into your home. There are lots of fibreglass roof hole repair kits on the market, both online and in DIY stores, so you shouldn’t have trouble picking one up. They usually contain a mouldable UV cured patch that you can stick onto the hole. It will harden and become instantly weatherproof, so is the perfect emergency repair solution. Fixing pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof Unfortunately, if you find pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof it’s often because the installer didn’t use enough resin during the fibreglassing process. Luckily, if you can’t get back in touch with the installer or you only notice after a few years, you can fix this yourself. Sand down the roof back to the clear resin layer. Clean the entire roof with acetone and reapply some GRP roofing resin. Ensure that all the pinholes are filled – you might need two coats.

If you look after your air source heat pump, it can last for over 20 years. Make sure you check it every year and get a registered or qualified installer to check it every 3-5 years to prolong its life. If in doubt, check the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions.