Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Isle Of Tiree.

The OLEV Grant, also known as Electric Vehicle Homecharge Scheme (EVHS) can reduce the cost of your home charger by up to £350. If you're eligible, you'll be able to claim it when you buy an EV charger.

• The glass has smashed from an impact such as a stone hitting it from a lawnmower
• You have been broken into and suspects used the window to gain entry
• The glass has blown (lost its airtightness) from constant water build-up around the seals, which is common in bathrooms
• Extreme weather or pressure changes have caused a crack

1. Including the beading (the plastic and rubber seals around the windows that can be removed), measure the width of the window frame.
2. Do the same for the height of the window, making sure you include the beading.
3. Then, take 10mm off each measurement, and you have the approximate size of your glass.

What Size Of Oil Boiler Do I Need?

When it comes to oil boilers, there are three main types - the combi, system and conventional. Within these types, you’d discover there happens to be a wide range of sizes to choose from. First and foremost, we must note that the size has to do with the amount of energy they offer to your heating and hot water system rather than the physical dimensions.

The rule of thumb is, the larger your house (which implies the more hot taps, radiators and showers), the more powerful (bigger) the oil boiler you’d require. For instance, a four-bedroom apartment with three showers occupied by a family of four will definitely need a more powerful boiler than a a bungalow featuring a single occupant.

It is, however, important to also note that it’s not all about going for the biggest oil boiler. If you decide to choose an oil boiler with a much bigger capacity that needed, not only will you be wasting money on the initial purchase as well as installation, but also lose money operating it. And in a converse scenario, if you go for the cheaper and lower-powered oil boiler in an attempt to save up some money, you’re most likely to end up with tepid radiators while also frequently running out of hot water. Hence, the importance of determining the appropriate size of boiler for your particular household before purchase.

To determine the appropriate size, determining the number of bathrooms, radiators as well as the total number of people living in the property would be a step in the right direction.

Numbers of Radiators Combi System Boiler Regular

Up to 10 24 to 27kW 9 to 18kW 9 to 18kW

10 to 15 28 to 34kW 18 to 26kW 18 to 26kW

15 to 20 35 to 42kW 27 to 40kW 27 to 40kW

When your tiles get old and starts to lose its curb appeal and deteriorate, it’s certainly time to have it removed. When it comes to old wall tiles removal, you have two options which is either you do it yourself or call in a professional – with the latter being more advisable. However, if you wish to save some money on installation and carry out the task yourself, then you’ve come to the right place!

Firstly, you have to know that the bonding agent or adhesive usually incorporated to hold a tile against the wall are always very strong or else you’ll find your tiles peeling off. As a result, to have them removed is not the easiest of tasks and bashing them with a hammer, will only have them broken leaving you with the task of having to scrape off the pieces. A better and much easier approach to removing tiles from a wall will be to pry them off one after the other. So how do you go about this? Let’s have a look!

1. Safety First, Then Remove The First Tile
   Wear a protective eye goggle and gloves.
2. Break up the grout around a tile located atthe wall’s centre using a putty knife and hammer.
3. Place the putty knife under the the tile and gently it with the hammer.
4. Remove The Remaining Tiles
   By tapping and prying using the tools - hammer and putty knife, wipe off all the tiles in the vertical row.
5. Once done, continue to detaching the tiles in the adjacent rows until you’re able to open a wallboard section that’s around 12 inches wide and does not obstruct a stud.
6. Use a keyhole blade to poke it through the wallboard.
7. With the help of a reciprocating saw, cut out the wallboard’s section.
8. Cut The Fasteners
   Using a metal-cutting blade, cut te wallboard-holding fasteners. Make sure the fasteners holding the wallboard to the top and bottom plates of the wall are both detached.
9. Remove All Wallboard Sections
   Using a similar approach, gently remove the other sections of the wallboard.
10. Once completed, you can easily sweep the tiles’ broken pieces.
11. Finally, vaccum the grout dust to ensure the work is neatly done.

If you lack a proper training or experience, taking off your tiles from a wall is best left to a skilled professional for the best results and to prevent potential damages which can lead to additional costs.

Generally, 4-yard skips are basically designed for small clean or clear out projects or residential use. If you want to carry out a small renovation task or to clear out your home, you simply can not ignore the disposal of your unwanted waste. You’ll save yourself some time, money and potential accidents by hiring a 4-yard skip that will do the job effectively. We are all aware how time consuming it is making several trips to the local waste disposal centre.

When talking about the size of a 4-yard skip, it runs beyond its capacity. Skips of small sizes can be easily accommodated in not too large spaces which can be in the garden or driveway which saves you the stress and money of having to acquire skip hire permits.

If you’d like to know the the size of a 4 yard skip in metres, we’ve got you fully covered for both imperial and metric! The answer is provided below:

Imperial - Width 4’3, Height 3’2

Metric - Width 1.29m, Height 0.972m

It is, however, important to take note that when hiring a skip the measurement might be a bit tricky. The ‘4 yard’ term implies the capacity of the skip and not the length. The actual length of a 4 yard skip is only 6 feet or 2 yards. As a result, before you hire a skip, there’s the need to be clear as to the measurement you’re looking for. Otherwise, you might end up hiring the wrong skip and having to get another. Not good for your pocket, right? Well, that’s why we’ve provided this answer to help you in the best possible way! Click here to learn more about skips.

A thermostatic shower is simply a shower that only needs to be set at a given temperature and it automatically maintains this set water temperature all by itself. Typically, this type of shower functions with the three primary types of water system available in the UK. Thermostatic showers are very popular in residential buildings featuring both mains-fed hot water systems as well as combi-boiler systems due to the fact that they’re both renowned for the ease through which the flow of water can be affected by the actions of other individuals. In some events, this can mean the action of individuals in separate properties. As a result, gravity-fed water systems are usually more reliable, but even at that, thermostatic shower valves are mostly seen as an additional safety feature that’s quite useful should it be required. So how exactly does the thermostatic shower work?

A thermostatic shower makes use of a thermostatic valve to mix both the cold and hot feeds in the right proportion prior to channeling the water via the showerhead. As a result of the link that exists between water pressure and water temperature, this is able to maintain a steady flow. What’s more? Contemporary thermostatic showers can also shut down by itself if it observes that the supply of cold water has reduced to a level that’s considered to be unsafe which ultimately prevents scalding. What thermostatic showers simply does is to store hot water from the mains and then mix it with the right quantity of cold water in order to generate the desired temperature. They’re unlike electric showers which collect cold water from the mains and heat it up to the set temperature.

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d not want to try out on your bathroom with some practices. For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

Bathroom Floor Tiling Procedures

• Make Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor

✓ Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.

✓ Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.

✓ Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.

✓ Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.

• Cut The Tiles

✓ Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.

• Choose The Appropriate Adhesive

✓ To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer.

✓ If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar

• Prepare The Area

✓ Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.

✓ Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.

• Space The Tiles

✓ Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.

✓ If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.

• Use The Right Grout

✓ With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.

✓ The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.

✓ Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.