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Are you thinking about updating your bathroom? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how to go about it. Well, when it comes to bathroom remodelling, the process always begins with the drawing of a floor plan. If you don’t know how to go about that, then you’ve come to the right place! In this guide, we’re going to take you through the bathroom floor plan drawing process. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, you can make use of the pencil and paper approach as it happens to be much cheaper than the computer based approach. Plus, you don’t have to be an art genius in school to complete the task satisfactorily.

1. Sketch it out. Create a rough sketch of the space on unlined paper. This should feature all openings like the doors and windows, the spots where the existing plumbing fixtures are located, the location of the electrical lines including outlets, receptacles, heating and cooling pipes and more
2. Add dimensions to the sketch. The next line of action would be to take measurements of the bathroom. With the help of a friend, hold the tape tightly at both ends in order to get the right dimensions. Then, measure the length of the walls, fixtures, windows and mark then roughly on the sketch. Once done, you can go back to double check the recorded measurements for accuracy.
3. Transfer the room dimensions to a sheet of graph paper. At the stage in the process, you should be aware that each 1/4 inch square on the graph paper is equal to 6 inches or half foot. You can start by drawing the bathroom walls and partitions as well as the surrounding areas. Then, add the doors and the direction they swing open and the windows present. Once done, draw the fixtures to complete the floor plan.

Fitting a new bathroom can be a strenuous and very complicated task which usually comes with serious financial implications. But even more importantly, you’re most likely going to be working tight to a time schedule. So you’d like to know how soon you can have your bathroom space back and ready to use. This mostly either because you’re really impatient to see how your new bathroom will turn out to be or because you do not really fancy using another bathroom for long pending the time your new bathroom is being fitted and we definitely do not blame you. Having your bathroom back new and sparkling can be the best feeling ever and all professionals seek to get the job done as soon as they possibly can.

Overall, one thing that everyone would need to consider is mainly setting realistic expectations. Giving an accurate time it’ll take to complete the installation of your bathroom is almost impossible as there are many factors that can play a huge role in that. These factors include the size of the project as well as the design’s complexities, materials to be used and any other special requirements in the project. As a result, while 5 days is the average number of days it’ll take for the professional installation of a new bathroom, this can vary depending on the size of your bathroom and more. And you would have guessed, a smaller bathroom will require less number days when compared to a bigger bathroom with the same design. Also, designs can go a long way to determine the duration of a bathroom installation project with complex ones requiring more days as compared to simpler designs.

Conservatories have long been a favourite home improvement with homeowners, and there are no signs of that trend going away. And because of that, they add value to homes.

Wooden conservatories add value to your home just as any other type would. In fact, in some cases a wooden conservatory will add more value to your property than a uPVC or aluminium one, for example if your home is a period property. A wooden conservatory will fit in keeping with the rest of an older property, so buyers will prefer a period home with a wood conservatory over a uPVC one.

It’s important to remember that wooden conservatories cost more than uPVC ones, but that does mean that they will add more value. They look more stylish than uPVC conservatories and may last just as long with the right care and maintenance, so if a wooden conservatory would complement your home much more than uPVC they’re worth looking into.

A wooden conservatory will set you back anywhere between £25,000 to £60,000, so factor this in when you’re thinking about how much value it will add to your home. It’s also worth thinking about the other things that will have an impact on the value it will add to your home, such your property’s location, whether conservatories are a common addition to houses in your area, the general look of your home and whether the conservatory would take up a large part of your garden. If you’re unsure whether a wooden conservatory will add enough value to your home, you could speak to a surveyor or valuer to give you their opinion before you start any work.

Tiling a kitchen wall can seem like an easy task until you get started. Errors made will forever be evident for everyone to see unless you’re prepared to spend some extra bucks. When done right, it can actually be a very satisfying project, but don’t even think about rushing into it. If you lack a proper training or experience, it’s advisable to leave the task to a skilled professional for the best results and to avoid extra costs. This guide is meant to give you a detailed insight into the process and help you avoid possible errors.

• Preparation

✓ Ensure you have the required amount of tiles, adhesive and grout.

✓ Take the tiles measurement and calculate in square metres.

✓ Determine the number of tiles to be used and add about 10% to the total number to cover for possible wastage.

✓ Check to surface to make sure its clean and dry.

• Mark Out The Area To Be Tiled

✓ Mark out the width of the tiles with spacers using a baton of timber.

✓ Position a tile against the bottom-most point and draw a line.

✓ Put a baton along this line and follow this by a vertical line at the wall’s end.

• Install The Tiles On The Kitchen Walls

✓ Apply an even layer of adhesive with a wall trowel on the kitchen’s wall surface.

✓ Place the first tile on the adhesive and apply small pressure, do this for the remaining tiles with similar pressure to ensure its levelled.

✓ Make use of tile spacers to get a uniform space in between.

✓ Leave the adhesive to harden before applying the grout.

• Grouting

✓ Remove the tile space and clear out excess adhesive

✓ Prepare the grout

✓ Make use of a grout float to apply the mixture into the joints.

✓ Let the grout dry up a bit before washing the surface off with a sponge and water.

It always an exciting decision to extend your home, be it adding to an existing room or building a new one all together. However, the problem starts when you realize there are so many options giving you a tricky challenge of knowing which to choose or where to start. There are great differences in renovations between homes, but a common question that remains is whether to go for a conservatory or an orangery.

There are large array of differences between the styles and knowing a thing or two about the special attributes is definitely a great way to get started. Let’s have a look!

• Orangeries are generally best suited to traditional-styled homes or with older property making use of matching stone or brick in construction. Meanwhile for a more recent or modern property, a conservatory will be the better option to add the flair to your property.

• Conservatories tend to be larger than orangeries, therefore if you want a smaller extension, an orangery would be your best bet.

• Orangeries are typically rectangular in shape and is traditionally a more regular building meanwhile a conservatory can be shaped to suit your needs. With an conservatory, you can get a T-shaped, L-shaped, curved, double ended and lean-to extensions to suit your preference.

• An orangery usually possess a flat roof at the edges with a glazed lantern section right at the centre. You can also find more luxurious orangeries having two or more lantern sections. However, when it comes to the roofing, conservatories generally have more options. Some are gabled or pitched, others are lean-to with a plethora of choice to finish off the roof.

• Due to the fact that orangeries are made of more brick than glass when compared to conservatories, they usually provide more insulation than their counterpart. If your goal is to use the extension during the winter months, then constructing an orangery is the best bet.

For a lot of home and property owners in the UK, a common courtesy is being neighbourly and several people find it relatively easy to get along with the folks next door. However, for most individuals, where the major dispute arises most times is due to boundaries which can lead to impasse that may only be resolved through legal action. But since nobody wants that, when boundary issues become more than just passing a comment about the current condition of the fence, you may want to clue yourself up on what to do to get the desired action. If attempts have been made to talk to your neighbour to no avail, there are a couple of things you can consider to make “them next door repair their fence. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight on these things to help you make informed decisions. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, it should be stated that if the fence poses an immediate danger then the usual legalities doesn’t apply. In this scenario, you may need to report to the local council who’ll take the necessary action on your behalf.

• Offer assistance. Since the cost of repairing a fence isn’t the cheapest thing to do, a lot of people might not be too eager to carry out this project and any friendly suggestion to do so may not be taken kindly. So if you feel that the this may be the issue, you can try offering some assistance to lessen the financial burden on your neighbour.
• Put up your own fence. If all attempts fail, you can consider erecting your own fence. However, this must be on your own property and as close to the boundary as possible.

1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.

You should inspect your roof twice a year, ideally after rain or snow, to see if it’s draining properly. Also in the Spring to check for damage that may of been caused over the winter months that will need to be put right before the next winter. Have an inspection carried out if you are unsure.