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1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

A big benefit to concrete is that you can paint it, making it easy to customise and coordinate with your outside area. However, it’s easy to resurface it too, so if you change your mind or inherit a patio that’s the wrong colour, you don’t need to worry.

Start by cleaning the surface with water and a brush. If you come up against any tough stains, you might need to use a detergent and water mix to remove them. Then you can prepare your resurfacer.

Generally, it’s best to apply resurfacer to a moist surface, although make sure you follow the instructions on the specific product you buy. You’ll need to mix the resurfacer with water, then pour and spread it on with a trowel or brush. You might need to apply multiple coats, and can add texture if you want to make the surface more grippy.

Ensure you protect any expansion joints in your patio with duct tape or weather stripping to stop the resurfacer from filling them in. You can also add a colour agent to your resurfacer before you apply it if you’d like to customise the colour.

Getting the opportunity to fit your very own bespoke wardrobe in your home is a really exciting prospect. However, when planning to install customizable fitted wardrobe, one factor that turns off most home and property owners is the belief that the bespoke solution is actually a very expensive one. But the fact, in reality, is that so far you’re prepared for any associated costs bespoke fitted wardrobes should not make you break the bank to get one done in your home. So if you’re planning to install this type of fitted wardrobe and wondering about the cost, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we’ve put together the price range estimate as well as the potential extra costs to help you plan ahead and get your dream wardrobe without having to worry too much about unpleasant surprises along the way. Let’s take a look!

With some companies you’ll be provided with a fixed price which can’t be negotiated. While prices from other suppliers will usually start within the range of £1400 to about £1700 for the standard wood finish wardrobe, but this can also reach about £5000 or more for high end or premium finishes, without taking the cost of the added extras into consideration. Ultimately, this often implies having to pay out more money for interiors and additional features than you’re likely going to need. Below is a rough guide to the cost of fitted wardrobes from Spaceslide:

✓ The price for a 2, 3 or 4 door sliding wardrobe starts at £452.37.

✓ The price for a 3 door fitted wardrobe starts at £659.07

✓ The price for a 4 door fitted fitted wardrobe starts at £865.77.

Additional costs you’ll have to consider before getting started includes the cost of hiring installers as well as delivery and removal cost.

Have you laid your tile and left it to set? If yes, then the next step is to start grouting. Before you get started there’s a need to make ready the right grout for the type of your grout as well as background material. If you’re not certain of the right grout you can reach out to the grout manufacturer for help. Grouting of floor tiles is not the easiest and tasks and should be left to a reputable professional in order to avoid costly mistakes and unnecessary costs. In this post, we’re going to take you through the processes involved in grouting of floor tiles in order to put you on the right track. Let’s take a look!

1. Depending on the adhesive used to lay your tiles, make sure you leave enough time for the tiles to fully set.
2. Get a mixing bucket and mix grout powder and water as instructed on the packaging. Ensure not to make too much as this will make it solidify quickly and unstable.
3. Apply some grout on the tiles - hold the grout float at 45 degree angle and apply the grout to fill all of the joints.
4. Once you’re done grouting all of the joints between the tiles, leave it for up to 10 to 15 minutes to dry before wiping down the tile surface using a damp sponge. Ensure not to apply too much pressure on the grout joints.
5. Let the tiles rest for about an hour so as to allow the grout solidify and harden a bit more. Once done, proceed to take off the excess grout and smooth it off.
6. Wipe down the tiles until they’re totally clean using a clean cloth.

1. After the installer’s measured up, given you an estimated output and recommended some systems for you, they’ll arrange date to come to your home to install the solar thermal panels. They’ll also let you know if any scaffolding will be required.
2. Next, they will start to fit the panels, or collectors, to your roof. Stainless steel brackets will be provided with the system and they will remove your roof tiles or slates to attach the brackets to the rafters. They’ll then replace the tiles and add waterproof flashing to ensure you don’t get any roof leaks, and add the frame.
3. If you’ve chosen evacuated tube solar thermal panels, the installer will bolt the heat transfer unit to the top of the frame but not install the tubes until nearer the end. This is because the tubes start to transfer heat to the exchanger immediately, and when everything is unconnected this could damage the unit.
4. If you don’t need a new boiler with your installation, a new dual coil water cylinder, pump and system control system will be fitted. It’s best in a loft or upper floor of your home.
5. A new thermal store or hot water tank that will store the heat provided by the solar system is much larger than a standard tank but it may fit in the spot of your old one. The installer will ensure that it’s connected to the mains cold water, your other heating source (such as a gas boiler or biomass boiler), immersion heater, temperature sensors and the solar collectors themselves.
6. Next they will install the pumping station, usually near the water tank. The expansion tank will be installed on the solar thermal loop, which is usually nearby. Its job is to prevent pressure changes that could damage the system.
7. You’ll get a heat generation meter which must be MCS-certified if you want to take advantage of the RHI, and any control equipment that comes with the system will be installed.
8. The installers will then bring the system to pressure by pumping the heat transfer liquid into the system up to a pressure of around 2 bar.
9. Finally, your MCS-registered installer will register your solar thermal system so you can apply for RHI payments of up to £525 per year.
So that’s the process of installing solar thermal panels. Remember – it's always best to use a professional to install any kind of renewable technology.

There is no legal requirement to have an asbestos survey done to sell your house. However, some mortgage lenders, estate agents and insurance companies may require one. Many home buyers and/or valuers will want to know before submitting an offer for your property.

A retractable awning can be a great addition to the outside of your home or business. They fold or roll neatly into a cassette, so they don’t take up space when you don’t need them. Some have articulated arms, while others have telescopic arms.

When you get an awning, you can choose between a manual and an automatic one. Manual ones have a handle or crank that you wind to fold it in and out, while automatic ones have a motor.

How Much To Change Roof On Conservatory?

If your existing conservatory roof is looking a bit tired and worn out, it may just be time you stopped the frequent repairs and maintenance, and start to think about getting a replacement. However, before you change the roof on your conservatory, there’s always a need to find out the cost to complete the project before you proceed so as to help you set a budget and start to plan. In this article, we’re going to give you a rough estimate of the cost of a changing a conservatory roof. Let’s take a look!

Generally, the prices of conservatory roofs varies largely on the a number of factors which includes the material used as well as the size of the conservatory.

✓ Polycarbonate conservatory roof - if you’re looking for the most affordable conservatory roof material option, then this is your material. Polycarbonate is very easy to work on and needs just a little framing skill which makes labour quite cheap. Furthermore, each panels are also relatively inexpensive when compared to glass panel or tile area. The price of this material will normally range between £200 to £300 per square metre for installation.

✓ Glass conservatory roof. This material is very energy efficient and will also add great value to your home. The price of this conservatory roof material will usually range between £300 to £360 per square metre for installation.

✓ Solid conservatory roof. This conservatory roof material possesses the best insulation properties alongside the longest lifespan. The solid tile roof the most secure which also offers the most privacy alongside many other benefits. These benefits, however, can only imply a higher cost. For a solid conservatory roof, the price per metre square normally varies between £445 to £650.