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Working with a designer to plan your kitchen means you’ll get the best possible use out of the space and it maybe that wasted space can be put to good use. Designers can offer you lots of space saving solutions and innovative kitchen units, making your kitchen a truly functional area.

How To Prep Walls For Painting

This is exactly the part of a wall painting job that can make or mar the whole project. To ensure that your paint project doesn’t end up being disastrous, the most important place to start is from room preparation which includes cleaning, sanding as well as priming the walls before painting. Not every wall will require to go through all the preparation steps as all walls are unique and some are in better conditions than others. However, it’s advisable to thoroughly inspect the surfaces before you proceed to painting and take the necessary actions where required.

This is a very simple DIY job that should be completed in little time, however it’s also perhaps the most important step of the entire painting project. Hence, if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend employing a painting expert who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll should you how you can prepare your wall for painting.

✓ Cleaning. There is no single best way to properly clean a wall, but most walls will be just fine with a sponge and warm water. For walls that have been stained with oil or grime such as kitchen walls, you can apply grease cutting detergent and water mixture to wash and follow up with warm water to clean the residues and a damp cloth wiping to finish it off. Then leave to dry off properly.

✓ Remove mildrew. Wipe out mildrew using a sponge and solution that’s three to four parts water to one part bleach. Apply this solution and scrub the affected surface with a soft brush.

✓ Sanding. This step is only meant for walls with rough spots on its surface. Dull the uneven spots with a sandpaper, wipe away the dust and leave to dry. Use a fine grit sandpaper to sand the surfaces and let it dry properly.

✓ Priming. Prime the wall to get the most out of your paint. They work to disguise imperfections and create a smooth surface on which you can work on.

One of one of the most unfortunate parts of a woodworm invasion is that the signs of the issue are just visible at the end of the woodworm's lifecycle. This is when the woodworm beetle breaks free from within the wood to proceed its breeding.

Sign 1: Departure Holes in Wood

The signs to watch out for are what we call exit holes. When determining if you have energetic woodworm in your residential or commercial property one extremely aesthetic sign is the holes produced by the woodworm as they leave the wood. The dimension of the holes varies relying on the types of woodworm but generally they are between 2mm and also 5mm. If the woodworm trouble is energetic the holes will have a 'clean' or 'fresh' appearance. They can often just be identified up close, unless there is a huge problem as well as many departure holes with each other. Take a look at our examples below of different kinds of exit holes:

Sign 2: Presence of Bore dust

Another sign that you have an online woodworm invasion in your property is the presence of frass being left by the beetle when it chews its means with the timber. Frass is a dirt developed by woodworm. The frass or woodworm dirt is light in colour and looks virtually like very fine wood shavings. This frass is essentially woodworm waste and also it can be this waste that can aid us identify what kind of woodworm beetle is present. As an example ... the frass created by the wood-boring weevil is 'sticky' to the touch as a result of there being moisture present. The pictures below offer an indicator of what to watch out for:.

Sign 3: Tunnels within the timber brought on by woodworm.

Although this is an apparent sign that you have a woodworm issue it is additionally one of the least noticeable. The tunnels are developed by the woodworm as it makes it method via the wood.

Sign 4: Harmed wood

Damage timber is a clear sign that woodworm are causing damage to your residential or commercial property. Damage can range from weakened floorboards through to crumbling skirting boards. It is very important not to puzzle woodworm damage with the damages triggered by completely dry rot or damp rot. If you are unclear which of these home care problems are creating the damage then it is essential to speak to a hardwood expert to evaluate the lumber to prevent unnecessary treatments that might not be appropriate.

Sign 5: Actual beetles

Dead woodworm beetles might be seen near lumbers that are contaminated. Similarly, throughout the beetle 'flight period' between May and October, you could see real-time beetles as they arise from the woods. Learn more concerning the woodworm lifecycle right here.

Generally the process for having plans produced will only take a month or two. Major works or new builds can take upto ten months to produce. This will depend on the requirements of your project and the number of technical drawings you need produced. An architect will always advise you based on the project how long these will realistically take.

Do Bifold Doors Open In Or Out?

If you’re considering getting bifold doors, then you’d probably want to know if it’s going to open inwards or outwards. The answer to the question is both, it can open inwards or outwards. Generally bifold doors are configured with flexibility in mind. They’re designed in such a way that allows them to be opened inwards or outwards depending on your preference or what best suits the space on which they will be installed. As a result, when you’re considering the installation of new bifolding doors in your home or property, one of the things you’ll have to take into account is whether you want your bifold doors to open inwards or outwards. Below are a couple of tips that’ll help you make the best decision as to whether your bifold doors should open inwards or outwards.

• Where you’re going to fit your bifold doors can play a huge role in determining whether they’ll open inwards or outwards. For instance, if they’re going to be fitted in your dining room, the furniture you have there will determine if there’s enough space to accommodate them inside or otherwise.

• The frequency of use will also be an influencing factor. If the door is frequently used, then a bifold door set with a traffic door which opens outwards will be more convenient for heavy daily use.

• The size of your outdoor space. Is your outdoor space restricted by your patio’s size, the decking area or garden? If yes, the opening inwards would be the best option. So also if your door opens straight out onto a pathway, you might want to make the bifold doors open inwards as well so as not to block the path.

How much a flat roof costs to repair depends on a few factors. Is your flat roof on a garage or an extension? What is the flat roof made from? It’s always best to get a few quotes to compare prices, but we’ll give you a rough idea here. If your flat roof was installed in the 1990s or earlier, it’s likely that you’ll see some leaks or damage soon. Felt flat roofs used to be installed completely flat, which meant that water couldn’t run off. That means that water pools and can create moss and damp. Sun exposure can also damage the felt, causing damage and eventually holes that lead to leaks. If you’re lucky enough to have got away with just needing a flat roof repair, this should set you back an average of £100 per square metre. If your roof is sagging due to the weight of it putting pressure on the timber frame, you might need additional joists – which could cost anywhere between £1,000 and £2,000, depending on how many you need. But if the problem is due to the internal part of the roof system becoming waterlogged, you could be looking at over £5,000. If your roof is severely leaking or the timber joists are rotting, it might be more cost effective to replace your flat roof. If you keep forking out for repairs, it will eventually be cheaper just to replace the whole thing, which could cost around £2,000.

• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

Just like every other thing in your house, your double glazed windows have an expected lifespan attached to it as it gradually becomes less functional and less efficient over time. Although there are actually top quality windows which are able to last a very long time, but the fact still remains that nothing can stand the test of time or last forever. Even the best quality double glazed windows will eventually need to be replaced at some point. So exactly how long do double glazing windows last before need a replacement?

To make it brief, most double glazing window units are typically expected to last an average of 20 years. This number of years can, however, vary within the range of 10 to 35 years based on the several factors such as the type, quality of materials as well as installation and where the windows are located.

The reason for the depreciation in double glazing windows is, over time, the windows may be subjected to some wear, tear as well as all kinds of minor damages which includes gas filled insulated glazing unit slowly and gradually leaking. According to the Centre for Sustainable Energy, the evaporation of 25 percent of gas will ultimately minimize the windows’ thermal performance. And when this occurs, fitting a secondary glazing measure or replacing the windows should be put into consideration.

Another factor leading to the gradual depreciation in double glazing windows over time has to do with condensation. When the window collects between the layers of glass due to the failure of the seal of the perimeter and the saturation of the desiccant, can only be solved by IGU replacement.

And finally, the ravages of time also has a way of taking its toll on double glazing windows. This can happen in so many ways such that the window becomes a lot less efficient and later needing to be replaced.