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How Much To Change Roof On Conservatory?

If your existing conservatory roof is looking a bit tired and worn out, it may just be time you stopped the frequent repairs and maintenance, and start to think about getting a replacement. However, before you change the roof on your conservatory, there’s always a need to find out the cost to complete the project before you proceed so as to help you set a budget and start to plan. In this article, we’re going to give you a rough estimate of the cost of a changing a conservatory roof. Let’s take a look!

Generally, the prices of conservatory roofs varies largely on the a number of factors which includes the material used as well as the size of the conservatory.

✓ Polycarbonate conservatory roof - if you’re looking for the most affordable conservatory roof material option, then this is your material. Polycarbonate is very easy to work on and needs just a little framing skill which makes labour quite cheap. Furthermore, each panels are also relatively inexpensive when compared to glass panel or tile area. The price of this material will normally range between £200 to £300 per square metre for installation.

✓ Glass conservatory roof. This material is very energy efficient and will also add great value to your home. The price of this conservatory roof material will usually range between £300 to £360 per square metre for installation.

✓ Solid conservatory roof. This conservatory roof material possesses the best insulation properties alongside the longest lifespan. The solid tile roof the most secure which also offers the most privacy alongside many other benefits. These benefits, however, can only imply a higher cost. For a solid conservatory roof, the price per metre square normally varies between £445 to £650.

When Does A Loft Become A Habitable Room?

When a loft is being converted to functional space, there are a multiple options it can offer. It’s not uncommon that at the conversion of this space, many household may not have a specific plan on how it’s going to be used. However, they know later on an actual need might arise, perhaps as you start working from home, developing other hobbies that requires an extra space or the family grows.

The loft can easily be converted into a game room, study room, playroom or even a household’s “breathing space etc. However, when the family grows and you wish to make use of the space on the top of your home as an extra bedroom, there are many factors to consider. The fact is, just because there’s enough space to fit a bed, doesn’t make it habitable. For a loft to become habitable, it must be built specifically for the purpose of being a sleeping area and must also comply with the relevant building regulations. It’s as a result of this, many property sale particulars include “potential third bedroom, subject to regulations statement written on it as well as the boarded and insulated loft space’s dimensions.

Loft conversions building regulations are set in such a way to ensure that adequate attention is given to both safety and structural elements to build a new space that’s fit for undetermined household use. These regulations are established minimum requirements to guarantee the following:

• The new floor and ceiling’s structural integrity.

• The existing roof and party wall modification’s structural stability.

• Safety during fire incidents plus an escape route.

• An appropriate stairway access.

• The proposed changes’ structural suitability to the external environment in association with the local area as well as any unique factors specific to the property.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

One thing you should know about block paving a drive is that it can be very expensive depending on a number of factors such as the materials to be incorporated, block paving pattern, labour cost as well as the size of the drive in question. However, before you get started it’s always a good idea to obtain multiple quotes to compare the prices and select the most reasonable quote. Here, we’ve provided a breakdown of the block paving cost to ensure that you’ll not get ripped off.

There are three main types of block paving which includes clay blocks, concrete blocks as well as natural stone. If you were to go for complex block paving patterns and extras such as drainage solutions and edging, you may have to pay a significantly higher price. The size of your drive is also a major determinant of your block paving cost. What’s more? The materials you need as well as the contractors you select will all play a key role in the final cost of block paving your drive.

The material cost for the three types of block paving includes: Clay block £70 to £100 per m2, concrete blocks £20 to £60 per m2 and natural stone £50 to £105 per m2. To calculate your total material cost, you’ll need to determine the size of your drive.

The cost of labour for installing block paving is usually within the range of £50 to £100 per square metre. In certain cases, you may also have some waste removal needs. If you’re going to hire a specialist that’ll take a day or two of labour to get the job done, it’ll cost about £150 to £200 per day.

Other additional block paving costs include: hardcore £300, blocks and edgings £1,700, sharp sand £250. kiln-dried sand £250 and skip hire £500.

How To Tile A Bathroom Floor

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d not want to try out on your bathroom with some practices. For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

Bathroom Floor Tiling Procedures

lMake Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor

• Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.

• Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.

• Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.

• Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.

lCut The Tiles

• Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.

lChoose The Appropriate Adhesive

• To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer.

• If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar

lPrepare The Area

• Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.

• Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.

lSpace The Tiles

• Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.

• If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.

lUse The Right Grout

• With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.

• The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.

• Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.

You don’t have to, especially if you’re on a budget. If you’re only replacing some, it’s a good idea to get all the windows on one side of your property replaced at the same time, so they all look the same. Be aware, obviously, huge savings could be had by having a number of windows replaced at the same time.

Air source heat pumps are a type of heating system that you can use to warm the air in your property. They’re a semi-renewable energy generator as, although they use electricity, they extract and use renewable heat from the air.

There are two main types of air source heat pump – air-to-water, and air-to-air. Air-to-water heat pumps are the most popular, and are best used to heat water that supplies underfloor heating systems or large radiators. Air-to-air pumps heat air, which is then dispersed round your property using fans.

Do you want a low carbon way of heating your home? Then, getting an air source heat pump is the way to go! What they do is pretty simple - they absorb the potential thermal energy present in the outside air and transmit it directly to the home or property where it’s going to be compressed and the heat transferred with the help of a number of coils. In other words, it functions by extracting heat from a cooler place and then uses it to raise the temperature inside a home or property. Being very similar to air conditioning units, the amount of heat they’re going to produce for your home or property will be dependent on the size you install. Therefore, the bigger the heat pump, the more the heat that’ll be generated.

Air source heat pumps have two main types which includes air to air and air to water. Air-to-water heat pumps works by absorbing heat from the outside air, then relays it directly into your home or property through the help of fans. In order to move the heat around your home, you’ll need a warm air circulation system. This type of air source heat pump are not eligible for the government’s Renewable Heat Incentive Payment as they can’t generate hot water. What’s more? They can function in reverse during the hot summer months.

Air-to-water heat pumps, on the other hand, operates by extracting heat from the outside air and transmitting it into the wet central heating system. Due to the fact that they’re able to generate heat that’s cooler than the one generated by a conventional gas or oil boiler, they happen to be a better fit for larger radiators or water underfloor heating.

With cavity walls being very similar to other type of brick works, it can be quite confusing to figure out the type of wall your property possesses. If your house was constructed after the 1920s, then its highly likely the you have cavity walls, while older houses (houses before the 1920s) are likely to have solid walls. What’s more? If you happen to own a home that was built in the last decade, then it’s very possible that it was built with insulation installed during construction.

An effective way to determine whether or not your property is built with cavity wall is to examine the brickwork on your home’s exterior. The bricks will typically possess a regular pattern if it features cavity walls. In the event whereby the brick work is covered by render, you can also figure it out by taking a measurement of the wall’s width. If the brick wall is beyond 3000mm in thickness ( from the exterior wall to the interior wall), then it probably features a cavity. Meanwhile, a wall that’s narrower is very likely to be solid. Stone walls, on the other hand, may actually be thicker but are most times solid.

In a situation whereby your house is built using steel frame or timber frame, or made using pre-fabricated concrete, there are varying rules that applies when it comes to insulation and should be examined by an expert before any insulation is installed. More often than not, most contractors will have installed special air vents, which can also be a good indicator that a cavity wall insulation has been done.