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• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

Architects specialise in designing new properties, extensions and interior layouts. Land and property owners typically hire an architect to help them create structures that compliment their environment, make best practical use of space, are structurally sound and meet budget requirements.

Architects typically offer design and project management services. This means that they’re involved in a project from start to finish, creating a concept, submitting planning and other applications, and managing construction. However, you can also hire an architect just to create your design and plans.

When your tiles get old and starts to lose its curb appeal and deteriorate, it’s certainly time to have it removed. When it comes to old wall tiles removal, you have two options which is either you do it yourself or call in a professional – with the latter being more advisable. However, if you wish to save some money on installation and carry out the task yourself, then you’ve come to the right place!

Firstly, you have to know that the bonding agent or adhesive usually incorporated to hold a tile against the wall are always very strong or else you’ll find your tiles peeling off. As a result, to have them removed is not the easiest of tasks and bashing them with a hammer, will only have them broken leaving you with the task of having to scrape off the pieces. A better and much easier approach to removing tiles from a wall will be to pry them off one after the other. So how do you go about this? Let’s have a look!

1. Safety First, Then Remove The First Tile
   Wear a protective eye goggle and gloves.
2. Break up the grout around a tile located atthe wall’s centre using a putty knife and hammer.
3. Place the putty knife under the the tile and gently it with the hammer.
4. Remove The Remaining Tiles
   By tapping and prying using the tools - hammer and putty knife, wipe off all the tiles in the vertical row.
5. Once done, continue to detaching the tiles in the adjacent rows until you’re able to open a wallboard section that’s around 12 inches wide and does not obstruct a stud.
6. Use a keyhole blade to poke it through the wallboard.
7. With the help of a reciprocating saw, cut out the wallboard’s section.
8. Cut The Fasteners
   Using a metal-cutting blade, cut te wallboard-holding fasteners. Make sure the fasteners holding the wallboard to the top and bottom plates of the wall are both detached.
9. Remove All Wallboard Sections
   Using a similar approach, gently remove the other sections of the wallboard.
10. Once completed, you can easily sweep the tiles’ broken pieces.
11. Finally, vaccum the grout dust to ensure the work is neatly done.

If you lack a proper training or experience, taking off your tiles from a wall is best left to a skilled professional for the best results and to prevent potential damages which can lead to additional costs.

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When it comes to conservatory air conditioning, a huge mistake you’d not like to make is to purchase and install a wrong sized HVAC system. When that happens, not only will you be left unsatisfied, but you’d also end up incurring much more expenses than necessary. If you go for an AC unit that’s too small, it won’t be powerful enough to cool your conservatory as you would like. However, when you go ahead to select an oversized AC unit, your conservatory would be cooled relatively quick but will leave the air in the structure with excess humidity and consume more electricity as it’s going to cycle on and off which will ultimately cost you more money. In other words, it’s always a smart decision to take your time to calculate the right air conditioner size for your conservatory before you make a purchase decision. So how exactly can you go about the determination of the appropriate HVAC unit size for your conservatory? Let’s take a look!

• Take the measurement of the conservatory’s square footage using a tape measure. If the space isn’t rectangular or square in shape, simply divide the conservatory in section comprising both squares and triangles which you can measure.
• Calculate the conservatory’s square footage. For a square or rectangle, simply multiply the length by the width. However if your space is in another shape, you can determine the square footage of the triangular sections by multiplying 0.5 by length and width, and the sum each of the sections.
• Determine the cooling capacity required for the space in question which is measured in British Terminal Units (BTUs)/hour. For more information to determine the BTUs needed depending on your conservatory size, simply visit the United States Department for Energy Star.

Are you looking to replace your old window for a new double glazed window and wondering what it’s going to be the cost? Well, the double glazed windows market is a very competitive one in the UK with varying prices across the country. Therefore, if you shop around you’re most likely to find something that’ll fit your budget both products and quality wise.

As you would have expected, the more windows you required the more money you are going to spend. However, the cost per window is likely going to be lower depending on the number of windows you purchase. Several double glazed windows come with a 10 year warranty but it’s advisable to also obtain a solid workmanship warranty which provides coverage for any potential problems for a good period of time upon installation.

To determine the cost of double glazed windows, there are so many things to put into consideration that just the primary dimensions of the window itself. Other factors that works to decrease or increase the cost of the project includes the frames’ quality as well as the material used. For example hardwood can be quite high priced when compared to uPVC.

The number of opening windows within the frame can also play a huge role in the cost of the windows as well as the type of the glass. The cost of a double glazing window usually ranges between £100 to £3,200 per window, depending on the available options.

To have a more accurate estimate of the cost of a double glazing window, you’ll need a obtain a survey from a double glazing installer who can take into account any possible complications that may arise when installing your windows while also giving an advise on the most suitable window style for your property.

Once you’ve chosen the perfect feature to suit the shape and style of your bathroom, it’s time to start putting it to good use. Read on for a step-by-step guide on how to install a bath, but first of all, below are the preparatory tools;

Preparation

Before you install a bath, there are some things that needs to be taken into considerations.Once you have decided where you are going to install your bath, use an electronic detector to make sure there are no hidden pipes or wires in the walls where you will be securing the fittings. It is also advisable to choose walls that have a stud so that you can attach your fittings so strongly.

When assembling your bath, lay it on top of a rug or blanket to ensure it doesn’t get scratched, and remove any protective film from the areas you will be working on, such as around the drain and tap fittings, as well as the sides where the bath will sit against the wall. Always turn off the water at the mains beforehand.

Note: The installation process will vary, depending on the design of your bath. It is always necessary to consult the manufacturer instructions alongside this guide.

MATERIALS

• Drill and appropriate drill bit
• Screwdriver
• Spirit level
• Tape measurer
• Hammer
• Pencil
• Caulking gun and silicone sealant

You’ll also need an extra pair of hands to help manoeuvre the bath into place.

Step 1

Attach the legs and the fittings by securing the appropriate bolts and channels, and then attach the feet.

Step 2

Measure and adjust the bath's position, Once you are sure that your bath is level, mark the places where it will be secured into the walls and floor. If your bath comes with wall fittings, use your pencil to mark the place where they will be secured to the walls. Do the same for the floor fittings.

Step 3

Prepare the wall for the fittings, align it with the wall at the location you marked and use your spirit level to make sure it is even. Drill holes and secure in place, making sure you use fittings that are suitable for the type of walls in your bathroom.

Step 4

Secure your bath by moving the bath back into the final position and align it with the holes you created, or on top of the timber batten. Once again, check that it is level. Turn the water back on and check for any leaks.

Step 5

Seal around the rim, fill it with water and trace silicone sealant around the edges, where the rim meets the wall. Allow it to dry for the recommended time.

If your boiler is leaking, there are some checks that you can do yourself. However, you should never attempt to repair your boiler yourself – only a Gas Safe-registered engineer should conduct repairs.

There are 3 main reasons why your boiler might be leaking: there’s a pressure valve fault, a temperature valve leak or corrosion in the system. An engineer will be able to spot the problem quickly, but in the meantime there are a few things you can do:

Check the pipe fittings

If your boiler is leaking water around the pipe fittings, it could be an installation fault and you should get in touch with the engineer that fitted it. You can check the pipe fittings by drying the area then waiting to see if the water appears again. If it does, you may be able to do a ¼ turn of the pipe to stop it. However, you should still call the engineer that installed it to ask them to check the PTFE tape on the inside.

Inspect the seals

Over time, the rubber seals on a boiler can start to perish, so if you have an old boiler this could be the source of your leak. If you have a new boiler, it could be caused by your boiler running over pressure.

Heat exchanger corrosion

Unfortunately, if a boiler engineer discovers that the boiler is leaking water from the heat exchanger, this is the end of the road for your system. The heat exchanger is the most expensive part of your boiler, so it makes more financial sense to replace your boiler with a newer, more efficient model rather than try to replace it.