Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Llanfairfechan.

In a nutshell, a mortgage loan is for the acquisition of an asset, so lenders won’t tend to give you anything else in a mortgage that is going to cover your home renovation costs. When you are applying for your mortgage, your provider will examine the price of your new household. For example, if you’re planning to buy a property for £200,000, but you need another £50,000 to help improve it, you’ll find that your lender might turn you down.

Essentially, with any mortgage loans that you take out on your possessions, the bank or creditor theoretically owns your home till you’ve entirely paid off your loan, which is why it is very unlikely that you will get extra funds from them. There are some mortgage providers who will be willing to add on some building costs, but it is entirely up to you whether to choose it or not.

With most mortgages, banks and other lenders will usually give you a maximum of 95% of what you purchased your property for. That means, that even if you contemplate the household has the probability to be valued at so much more, you’ll have to find an alternative way of paying for the developments you have in attention. So, if the accumulation of extra funds on to your mortgage loan is out of the question, you’ll need to find additional ways of paying for the home developments.

It is well and good if you have the cash saved up, or else, you can explore other payment options which your bank or lender may be able to help you with. There are several methods by which you can collect the cost to pay for the improvements, from personal loans to credit cards or even overdrafts, there are tons of ways to lending money. Keep in mind these are all forms of debt so keep an eye out for the interest rates when you are repaying.

Air conditioning filters work mainly to collect dust from the air and as such, tends to get dirty pretty often with all sorts of materials such as hair fibres, pollen and more. If you have a large office, this gets even more important as more air circulates through your air conditioning system. Failure to change your office air conditioning filters when due can bring about of challenges not only to the system itself, but also to the health of the individual making use of the space especially those suffering from asthma or allergies (due to the reduction in air quality). So if you happen to have an air conditioning system in your office, you should probably find out how often it’s recommended to change the filters and that’s exactly why we’re here. Let’s take a look!

In the summer when the heat turns up there’s a huge need to change the office air filters on a regular basis ( at least once a month). This is due to the fact that your air conditioning system works extra hard and runs all the time during the warmer months. However, during the period when there’s a cool temperature, the air conditioning filter can be changed every 2 months as the unit wouldn’t be subjected to frequent usage during this period. What’s more? If you happen to have pets, a large family or live with an individual who suffers from asthma or allergies, it becomes a lot more important to change your air filters. Plus, a dirty filter is capable of increasing your energy cost within the range of 5 to 15 percent on a monthly basis.

When people think about heat pumps, they’ll automatically have the believe that a swimming pool will require a big heat pump. Since the swimming pool has a large volume of water, then warming such a volume will require a large ground source heat pump because that volume is much larger than the normal domestic hot water tank, right? Well, that point of reasoning does seem logical especially with the information almost everywhere that ground source heat pumps are usually less efficient when it comes to heating hot water for home’s use. However, the fact is there are also some things to put into consideration that also works in favour of the ground source heat pump.

First and foremost, you should know your domestic hot water will typically be heated to a much higher temperature when compared to your swimming pool. Since you wouldn’t be using the water to disinfect your bathroom or doing your dishes in your swimming pool, then the temperature can be much lower. In fact, it’s much more comfortable and enjoyable to heat to a typical “swimming pool temperature than having it at a hot bath temperature. If you’ve ever wandered into a really hot swimming pool, you wouldn’t need any introduction to the painful discomfort that comes next.

As a result of this low temperature, your “tiny heat pump can operate a in a more efficient way which makes the use of ground source heat pumps a viable swimming pool heating option. What’s more? The ground source heat pump works for a swimming pool just like any any other application - moving the heat from the region of a warmer temperature to the cooler temperature region.

Do I Need Planning Permission For A Wooden Conservatory?

The addition of a conservatory to your home is classified as a “permitted development and according to the 2008 legislation, you do not need to apply for a planning permission to add a wooden conservatory to your home so far you are within some particular limits. These regulations are summarized below:

• All extensions must not be more than one storey and the height must be lower or equal to the existing building’s roof or 4m at the maximum.

• There are multiple limitations on the extent you can extend from your existing property depending on a few factors such as the type of your house as well as the location of the extension, be it at the rear or side of the building.

• If your wooden conservatory is to be constructed at the rear, it must not go beyond 3 metres from the attached house’s original property and 4 metres in a detached house. Also, the wooden conservatory mustn’t go beyond half the space around the property.

• The wooden conservatory must not go beyond half the size of the original house. Similar conditions govern that of the space around the existing building.

• Extensions that are not covered by the permitting rights are the ones constructed in front of the property or those directly facing the main street or road.

• Listed Building content may be needed in the event whereby there’s a Listed Building proposed work.

This is just a brief of the conditions that applies, however, the fact remains most property owners can have a wooden conservatory installed without having to apply for planning permission. It is advisable to consult your local planning office before you construct an extension. In certain cases, all work may require planning permission if there’s a permitted development rights removal. Click here to learn more about wooden conservatories

Plasterboard or drywall is simply gypsum plaster covered from both sides by thick paper layers. It’s known to be a highly versatile product used on both interior walls and ceiling as a result of its numerous advantages. This popular material in residential buildings can be designed to be fire resistant, humidity resistant and noise resistant. They have a low impact on the environment, while also being quite easy to repair and perfect to hide stuffs from plain sight. Most home and property owners in the UK have this material installed in their space as despite the multiple benefits, they’re also quite affordable. However, if you’re thinking about installing a plasterboard on your ceiling, one challenge you’re likely to face is determining the appropriate plasterboard thickness to incorporate as this make or mar your entire project. In this post, we’re going to take a look at the right plasterboard thickness for ceiling so as to help you make an informed decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, let’s consider the size of the plasterboard sheet. The standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much-needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths. Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

Cement is a crucial element in bricklaying that’s widely used in both construction as well as finishing works. Generally, they’re used to aerate concrete blocks, connect bricks, prepare plaster, floor levelling as well as the making of precast products. The major reason cement is one of the most common construction materials as its incredible ability to hold structure together. To get a cement plaster, you’d simply have to mix cement with both water and sand. However, when you mix cement with lime, sand and water, you’ll get a mortar.

For cements mortars to be used inside joints, you’ll have to include 1 part cement at the minimum to not more than 2 parts sand by weight which should be dry mixed and moistened with enough water to allow for troweling and packing without falling apart. Generally, the cement sand ratio in a mortar is in between 1:2 to 1:6. The cement and sand mix ratio is largely based on the importance of the project.

Cement provides a plethora of uses in bricklaying and these includes:

• Preparation of cement concrete

• Preparation of cement mortar

• Building fireproof and thermal proof structures

• Building chemical proof structures

• Serving as a grout material

• Building hydrographic and frost resistant structures

• Manufacturing precast members

• Constructing aesthetic concrete

• Constructing cement concrete roads

There are several types of cements with each having its specific purpose. For instance, the type of cement more suited to building a fire proof structure is a high alumnia cement and to build a hydrographic structure, cements like expanding cement, hydrophobic cement, pozzolana cement and quick setting cement are the best bet. Acid resistant cements are more useful in building chemical proof structures, portland cements are best suited to making grout materials, while coloured cements are preferable to building aesthetic structures.

1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.

The bath waste is primarily responsible for the safe drainage of the bath once the plug is removed. Generally, it’s connected to the overflow which enables excess water to go away if the plug is in and the bath is overfilled. There are times whereby the bath waste can corrode and start to leak, so when this happens its important to replace the components so as to make sure that there’s no excessive water damage as well as other complications. This is a task any DIYer, regardless of the experience level can achieve, however if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we aim to take you through the bath waste fitting process to ensure you do it the right way. Let’s take a look!

• Remove the old bath waste. Do this by unscrewing the screw probably located at the centre of the waste cover. Then pull the outer cover away from the bath. Locate a larger washer underneath and lift it out, the clean the hole of any old sealant to make a smooth entry for the new waste.
• Disconnect the connector and pipe. Locate the plastic pipe that runs from the bottom of the bath to the overflow rose high up at the bath’s end. You’ll observe a connector at each end of the pipe, remove the pipe from the connectors and unscrew both connectors.
• Connect new fittings to new pipe. Take the new plastic waste and connect it to one end of the new plastic pipe and repeat the same process at the other end with the plastic overflow.
• Connect to the bath. Push or screw the waste up into the hole underneath the bath and connect into the trap pipe underneath. Push the new overflow into the bath’s back and on the front then screw I the rose or the cover of the new overflow.