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Artexing a ceiling can be a tricky job, but whether you’re considering hiring a professional or DIY, it’s helpful to know how it’s done.

Artex is available either in a paste or powder form. The paste is ideal if you’re making small repairs or additions to an existing ceiling. But, if you have a whole ceiling to cover, the powder is more cost effective. When you’re ready to get started, you’ll need to mix the powder up with cold water according to the instructions.

It’s possible to artex over plaster, plasterboard or paint. If you have a plasterboard surface, you should tape and fill any joints or cracks before you begin. Plaster and plasterboard both require a coat of sealant or primer first. You can usually artex straight over paint, but any gloss paint should be sanded down, and any dark paints covered with a layer of white.

Artexing can get quite messy, so make sure you empty the room you’re working in as much as possible, lay down sheets and wear protective clothing and glasses. You might want to practice on a piece of board before you start on the ceiling.

Start by using a brush or roller to cover a 500 square cm area with a generous layer of artex. Then use a brush, comb or roller to create your chosen texture. Every time you do a new section of ceiling, try to blend it with the other sections you’ve done. Don’t be tempted to cover the whole ceiling before you start adding texture – the artex will dry too quickly for you to do it all in time.

Artex usually needs 12-24 hours in a well-ventilated space to dry completely.

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

No. You must never repair your own boiler – only a Gas Safe-registered engineer can do any work on your boiler. You can do simple DIY tasks to repressurise your boiler or stop a leak, but if you have to remove the outer casing of the boiler or touch the flue then you must get a qualified boiler engineer to take a look at your central heating system.

Interior painters and decorators will offer a wide range of services. These range from painting and wallpapering to other decorating jobs such as fitting skirting or architrave. Some painters and decorators will be trained to plaster as well, however, you should always ask them about this and not assume they will all be able to.

How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.

Asides from the fact that solar energy can be converted into electricity with the help of solar panels, there’s also another pretty cool way the sun’s power can be harnessed - solar thermal technologies. These technologies are able to convert sunlight into heat rather than power and these are in fact the very first solar energy products that were commercialized in the United Kingdom. Solar thermal panels, in a similar way to solar PVs, can help in minimizing your carbon footprint while also assisting you to save good money on your energy bills by providing the much needed coverage for your heating needs with the help of a renewable energy source that’s totally free.

Solar thermal panels provides some great benefits which is capable of making all homeowners in the UK consider installing one in their respective homes. Let’s take a closer look at these benefits.

✓ When compared to solar PV panels, they’re a more affordable heating option and also have a shorter payback period.

✓ Solar thermal panels are more efficient than PV panels due to the fact that the heat waves are able to hold more energy than sunlight and also because there’s no electricity transformation process.

✓ Solar thermal panels are able to operate in cold climates, strong wind as well as overcast weather, and make use of an energy storage system.

✓ They can help you save about 600kg of carbon dioxide emissions on an annual basis.

✓ Although most of the solar thermal panel systems come with a warranty usually within the range of 5 to 10 years, they’re able to last up to 25 years. What’s more? The require just a little maintenance, meaning the main cost you’d have to worry about is the cost of installation.

So have you are considering having a David Salisbury orangery in your home? It’s a stylish and visually appealing extension which adds immense value to your property when it comes to resale. Almost every home buyer wants a house with a nice orangery and even more so, if it’s a David Salisbury orangery. However, the cost of constructing a David Salisbury orangery is dependent on a wide range of factors which includes your location ( within the UK), the size of the building, the orangery style in question, the materials to be incorporated as well as the finish you’re expecting to get.

Typically, to construct a David Salisbury orangery, you’d need to spend a sum between £10,000 to £70,000. This differences in price is based on the influences that have been stated earlier which includes the type as well as size of the selected David Salisbury orangery. If you wish to construct the small David Salisbury orangery featuring a uPVC frame, you can get that done at a price not less than £10,000, but this price can cost up to £60,000 or even more if you want a large, timber-framed orangery built. Meanwhile if you prefer a premium quality and timber-framed David Salisbury orangery that comes with a new fitted kitchen, it may cost up to £70,000 in expenses (when you add the price of the new kitchen units as well as appliances).

The finish you want to achieve is also one of the greatest influential factors that determines the cost of your David Salisbury orangery. For just the bare essentials (low end), the cost is between £10,000 to £20,000, meanwhile the cost for the mix of both basic and personalized items is within a range of £20,000 to £40,000. However, if you want a classy and distinctive David Salisbury orangery with superior quality fixtures and fittings, a more accurate cost estimate will range between £35,000 to £60,000.