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If you’ve got a problem with condensation and don’t have double glazing, you should find that getting new windows will help. Condensation is caused by warm air meeting a cold surface which then turns into water droplets. With two panes of glass, less heat will escape from your home and keep the window warmer, meaning when steam from the bathroom or kitchen touches your windows there should be less condensation.

How To Replace A Broken Roof Tile?

If you have a broken roof tile on your property, the next logical step to take is having it replaced as soon as you can. However, this is not the simplest of tasks so you might need some guidance if you wish to do it yourself. If you lack the confidence needed to pull this off as it involves working at height, then we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a reliable roofing contractor or company who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to walk you through the processes involved in the replacement of broken tiles. Let’s have a look!

✓ Match your roof tiles perfectly. The most frequently used roof tiles are concrete and terracotta. They may look all similar but they can actually vary in shapes, length as well as thickness. To replace a broken tile, you must first make sure that it’s the same type of tile so it doesn’t interfere with the flow of your roof which can lead to further damage.

✓ Climb on to the roof. Make use of a strong and stable ladder to do this. If you’re not comfortable with heights, simply call in a professional. Falling of the roof would be more expensive.

✓ Remove the broken tile. Lift up the overlapping tile next to the broken tile in such a way to enable an easy removal of the broken one. If you’re not able to life them, then they probably have nails securing them in place. Remove these nails to proceed.

✓ Replace the broken tile with the new one. To do this, simply lift up the bottom tiles from the above row and then slide the new tile back in place. If the tiles have been nailed, make sure you also drive a nail through the hole in the new tile into the timber roof batten.

Ponding is where you see pools of water appearing on your flat roof. Unless your roof is leaking or showing other signs of damage, you don’t need to replace it. When you do have your flat roof replaced, tell the contractor so they can find out the cause of the ponding.

Yes – solar panels do work in winter. Contrary to popular belief, solar panels can still work under daylight, even if it's not hot. Of course, they won’t generate as much electricity as they would during the summer months, as the days are shorter, but they will still generate electricity during those daylight hours.

Once you know how solar panels work, it’s easy to understand why solar panels work in the winter. Solar panels are made up of photovoltaic (PV) cells, which are units usually made out of silicon. These cells contain electrons that create energy when light hits them. The cell can then convert this energy into usable electric current and into your system to be used around the home.

Although it might seem strange, solar PV cells can actually work better when it’s cold. Too much heat around the cell can cause it to be inefficient, due to the difference in energy between the energy from the sunlight and the electrons in the solar cell. During cold weather, the difference between them is higher, so more

The higher the energy difference between the two sets of energy sources, the more power that the cell can produce when it’s struck by light. Of course, the downside is that there are fewer daylight hours in the winter, so you’ll still see a drop in energy production – but at least you know that your solar panels are still working efficiently. The other thing to bear in mind is that obstructions like snow and lots of cloud cover will impact the amount of electricity your solar panels will produce. Luckily the UK doesn’t get too much heavy snow, so any snow that does settle on the panels will melt quickly. As for cloud cover, even on exceptionally cloudy days your panels will still generate some electricity – just not as much as they would on a clear day.

Are you about to purchase a double glazed unit and wondering how to go about the replacement project? If yes, then you’re at the right place. Firstly, it’s advisable to hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help especially if you lack proper training and experience in the field. However, we’ve put together this step by step guide to provide you with a detailed information about the double glazed unit replacement process. Let’s get started!

The tools and materials you require for the project includes tape measure, hammers, nail punch, scraper, spacing blocks, non-hardening butyl putty, high-security glazing tape rolls and beading tacks.

• Work out the glass size required. Simply use the tape measure to measure from frame edge to frame edge while also taking note of the thickness.

• When about to order, inform the glass merchant that the measurement provided are frame-tight. This will make him reduce the dimension a little bit, mostly by 5mm for clearance.

• Remove the beading and ensure to support the glass while doing so. If the glass units are fitted in wooden windows, you may need to cut the putty-based compound they’re normally sealed with to remove the glass.

• Lay out the beading in the window’s shape to make for easier refitting later on.

• If you’re working on wooden frames, wipe out all traces of excess installation compound using a scraper and clean the rebate with a soft brush.

• Trial fit the double glazed windows to ensure they’d slide into the frame without being forced.

• Plastic frame windows are usually in between a pair of gaskets, you should replace this with a hight security glazing tape. While for a wooden frame, simply apply strips of flexible non-setting butyl putty or high-security glazing tape on either sides of the glass.

• Install and centralize the glass in the frame.

• Press the nail wooden beading or plastic beading back into place.

Not always is the answer, unfortunately many of the products sold for household use by untrained professionals may not get rid of all the fleas in your home. If some fleas are left they will reproduce and you will end up with a flea infestation again.

How Much Does A Handyman Charge Per Hour?

Do you need the professional services of a handyman? If yes, then you’d probably like to know the hourly rate a handyman charges in order to set a budget and make the necessary plans. Here, we’ll discuss the amount charged by handymen per hour and reason for the differences.

The fact is, there’s no accurate or single answer for all handymen as the project varies and the handyman mostly charges based on the type of work to be done. However, there are also other handyman pricing strategies which includes project pricing. When you’re being charged based on the tasks involved, you should ensure to ask the handyman for possible discount as several handymen will offer a considerable discount for bulk projects or tasks that can be completed on after the other. If the task is a small, one-off job then you’re likely to pay a minimum charge fee which would usually be higher when compared to the task being part of a larger project. Consequently, the first one hour of a handyman’s service will usually attract a premium, while the charges for remaining hours after the first will be a smaller charge. This is mainly due to the fact that a handyman will need to travel to deliver a service and it’s generally going to be a lot more economical to arrive on the site and take on a couple of tasks sequentially.

Moving forward, you should be aware that there’s an economy in sticking to one handyman. Handymen usually charge less to repay clients for their loyalty as they’d already have an idea of the client’s projects and needs which makes the job a lot easier. However, generally a handyman will charge within the range of £20 to £30 per hour.

Laying artificial grass on concrete needs a slightly different approach to if you’re installing it over soil. The good news is that it’s much less labour intensive, as you don’t need to do any digging or levelling.

Ideally, your concrete base should be in good condition, and have an adequate fall on it to provide efficient drainage. If it doesn’t, you might have to do some repair work or drill some drainage holes first.

When you’re ready to start, begin by cleaning your concrete base. Use a jet wash or a hose and brush to dislodge and disperse any dirt or plant growth. Once it’s clean, leave it to dry completely.

Then, you need to fit an underlay - usually it’s made of foam. This will provide padding to make your artificial grass softer and more comfortable to walk on. It will also help to level out any slopes on uneven parts on the concrete. Make sure it’s a good-quality underlay that’s permeable – if it’s not, you could end up with damp artificial grass and nasty smells as it will hold moisture. Roll out the underlay and cut it to shape, taping any separate sections together.

Next, use an adhesive to secure the underlay to your concrete. Make sure you leave gaps in the adhesive to allow water to drain off easily. Leave the glue to dry, then you can start laying your grass.

Roll out your grass like you did with your underlay, cutting it to shape and joining any separate sections together with artificial grass tape. Then glue the grass to the underlay. Leave it dry, give the grass a brush, and it’ll be ready to use!