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You don’t have to, especially if you’re on a budget. If you’re only replacing some, it’s a good idea to get all the windows on one side of your property replaced at the same time, so they all look the same. Be aware, obviously, huge savings could be had by having a number of windows replaced at the same time.

When it comes to electrical works, safety is always paramount. Although a complete house rewiring service may seem quite expensive, when compared to the safety it provides, you’d realize it’s well worth it. We know all too well that human nature tends to prevail to overlook small electrical issues until it’s too late or probably gets out of hands. When this happens, not only will you have to spend more to get the issue resolved, but it may also lead to some damages to your property. Hence, the need to identify and resolve electrical deficiencies as soon as possible. In this post, we’ve compiled a shortlist of some of the top signs that your house needs rewiring. Let’s take a look!

• Dimming or flickering lights. This is one of the most common signs that your house needs to be rewired. When a light brightens, it means there’s too much voltage and when it dims, it implies it’s receiving too little voltage. You may be tempted to think this is a lighbulb issue, but this type of decline in power is usually as a result of a loose wiring or faulty circuits which should not be ignored.
• Regularly blown fuses. With the steady development in technology as well as electrical appliances within our houses, older style fuses that are not designed to contain this amount of electricity will end up blowing. If your fuse blows on a more regular basis, then there may be a need to upgrade them to more modern circuit breakers.
• Lightbulbs burning out in their sockets. This is usually a sign of bigger issues in your wiring which is often caused by fluctuations in voltage.
• Sparking outlets. These can be perfectly normal, but at times they can also be a clear signal of a potentially dangerous problem which should not be ignored.

Wet rot simply refers to the decay of timber caused by high moisture levels. This natural decay occurs when the moisture content in timber is about 30 percent to 50 percent. This is opposing to dry rot which only occurs as a result of a lower moisture content of about 20 percent. Naturally, a fungus is attracted to very damp wood, which it feeds off and in turn, destroying it. There are a number of fungus types, however the most common type is Coniophora puteana (also referred to as cellar fungus). In general, wet rot is usually confined to a localised damp area and does not spread which makes it a lot less destructive when compared to dry rot. However, if left untreated or totally ignored, wet rot can be just as destructive as dry rot and can greatly reduce the structural strength of the timber thereby causing a major structural damage in the process. So, what causes wet rot? Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that wet rot would be non-existent without a damp area to grow and thrive as wet spores are attracted to wet timber with a high level of moisture content. This moisture can be as a result of a number of issues which includes defective plumbing, leaking gutters, leaking roof, broken pipes, leaking washing machine or a leaking shower tray or bath. When the moisture a timber is exposed to is excessive, this offer the perfect environment for the growth of wet rot as it enables fungal spores to germinate and grow. They use the wet timber as a food source and eat it away, leading to a weakened wood and a compromised structural integrity.

When it comes to laying of bricks, it is essential to get the right mortar mix. It is vital, be it for construction or maintenance projects, so far mortar is required. There are several materials incorporated in getting mortar which includes both cement and sharp sand, soft sand or plasterer’s sand and lots more. Here, we are going to look at the right ratio for cement and sand mix in bricklaying.

Cement include ingredients such as iron, aluminium, as well as silicon and it is mainly used for mortars like aerated cement mortar, Portland cement mortar and gauged mortar. Sand, on the other hand, comes in different forms such as sharp sand, soft sand and plasterer’s sand. The sharp sand consists of a larger grain size than the others and is usually incorporated in the construction areas that requires more strength as well as flexibility. Soft sand is the most common one used in mortar and it’s also referred to as bricklayers’ sand. These are used to make all types of mortar. Finally the plasterer’s sand which neither has the sharp sand’s coarseness nor the fineness of the soft sand, but can also be used for any form of mortar.

Cement and sand mortar is used for a plethora of bricklaying jobs serving as a glue for bricks, walls and pillars, while also repairing or maintaining old listed buildings. The preferred ratio here is 1:3 to 1:5 of cement and building sand. Meanwhile, to get a sand cement mix, essential materials that are required includes water, soft building sand as well as cement. However, you must also note that a sand and cement mortar is not used for structural projects, rather a concrete ratio is used.

How To Replace A Flat Roof

Is it high time you replaced your flat roof with a new one? If it’s time, then you probably shouldn’t waste another minute! Flat roofs come with multiple upsides and happens to be a lot more affordable than many other options (especially for starters). Not only do they add to your home’s curb appeal and requires a relatively low labour costs as there are minimal risks involved, but they’re also more accessible for maintenance purposes and aren’t as exposed to damage as a pitched roof. However, we’re not here to discuss the various benefits of installing a flat roof, but rather tell you how to install one. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a trustworthy professional that can guarantee the best results.

• Wipe the entire roof system clean.

• Detach and replace rotted roof sheathings.

• Detach and replace rotted fascia

• Hire a qualified air conditioning professional to disconnect the existing AC units.

• Introduce new aluminium air conditioning stands and secure against the deck.

• Let you qualified air conditioning professional reconnect the existing AC units.

• Put in place the new air conditioning quick disconnects.

• Attach EPS fanfold insulation in such a way to cover the surface of the entire roof and secure it firmly in place.

• Attach the tie-in roof materials where necessary.

• Attach roofing membrane to cover the entire area of the roofing.

• Attach membrane to the entire roof’s perimeter.

• Attach new perimeter flashings (fascia bar, fascia cap and drip edge), secured on the centre at 6. Make use of a good sealant to secure the fascia bar or fascia cap’s top flange.

• Attach boots on plumbing seal and stacks.

• Identify the existing vent stacks and seal, and put curbs

• Put safety walk pad network from the access point of the roof to the air conditioning units.

• Attach rooftop signs for roof traffic personnel

• Tidy up and clear out the debris

If you’re planning to build a small extension on your property, you’ll most likely want to know the length of time it’ll take to complete the home extension. Just like many other home improvement projects, it’s impossible to provide a specific number of day in which your project will be completed as the duration is based on a number of influencing factors. This includes the size of the development work as well as whether or not you plan to live in the house when the work is being done. In this article, we’re going to give you a breakdown of the processes that’s involved in building a small single storey extension alongside the duration for each so you can have an idea of how long your small extension project will take. Let’s take a look!

✓ A small single storey extension will normally take about 3 months to be completed.

✓ Site preparation is the first step in the process and it’ll take up to 2 weeks the dig out the footings and prepare foundations. Followed by a further 2 weeks to fit the damp course as well as any drains required around the extension.

✓ The 5th week is spent on working on the external walls and putting in place blockwork to deliver cavity wall insulation.

✓ The next 2 weeks will be spent on installing the roof structure as well as internal walls.

✓ Once done. The builders will make the structure weather proof and electricians or gas fitters will be on site to add power to the extension. This will be followed by internal walls’ plastering as well as breaking into your main house.

✓ After this, when the plaster is dry and decoration completed, units or furniture will then be installed.

What Is A Gas Safety Certificate?

Do you wish to know what a Gas Safety Certificate is and if you need to get one?

If you’re in the UK and you own a rental property, you have a statutory obligation to obtain a Gas Safety Certificate. The law ( Gas Safety - Installation and Use, Regulations 1998) stipulates that landlords as a matter of necessity should have all their gas appliances, fittings,and property flues subjected to yearly checks in order to ensure that they’re are totally safe.

The Gas Safety Certificate can be referred to in a number of ways which includes Landlord Gas Safety Record ( LGSR) or CORGI PROFORMA 12 (CP12). The later dating back to when the official body for gas safety in the UK was CORGI. However, the official body is now known as Gas Safe, hence it’s now usually called a Gas Safety Certificate or something along that line. But regardless of whatever you choose to call it, as long as you reside in the UK, it’s crucial to know that if you need one as soon as possible. So how do know if you need a Gas Safety Certificate?

If you’re a homeowner with a property that you live in, you’re not required by the law to obtain a Gas Safety Certificate. There’s nothing like a homeowner’s gas safety certificate, however we’d recommend you subject all you gas appliances and pipework to yearly examinations to ensure they’re functioning properly and safely.

If you’re a landlord in the UK, you’re required by the law to get a Gas Safety Certificate to ensure your property is safe for your tenants. You must reach out to an approved Gas Safe engineer who’ll carry out annual checks on your appliances to ensure that they’re totally safe.

Laying of floor tiles may seem seem to be a very tricky task that’s beyond the abilities of some homeowners, but in reality, it’s a task that most DIYers can handle - as long you don’t rush the process. With a little patience here and there, you’ll be amazed with how far you can go. The materials are quite easy to work with and tools, only requiring a little practice to master. However, if you don’t have the necessary confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend that you call in a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of laying floor tiles.

• Floor Preparation

✓ The first step is to prepare the floor by moving all objects like mortar, adhesives and more.

✓ Use concrete patching compound to fill ill low spots and cracks, until the floor is levelled.

✓ Ensure the floor is dry and clean.

• Pattern Layout

✓ Take the measurement of each wall’s length while also taking into account the room’s diagonals.

✓ To help place the tiles in an orderly manner, make use of a chalk to mark down lines on the levelled surface in question and ensure it’s parallel to the walls.

• Adhesive Preparation

✓ Mix the appropriate amount of water with the adhesive (bonding agent).

✓ The mixture should be toothpaste-like thick to ensure the durability of the tiles.

• Tiles Placement

✓ Depending on the tile’s size, evenly spread the mortar on the floor using a notched trowel.

✓ Lay the first tile on the bonding agent (adhesive or mortar) and apply a gentle and little pressure on the tile.

✓ Repeat the technique for other tiles using plastic spacers to ensure the edges and corners are properly aligned.

• Tiles Cutting

✓ Cut the tiles (if necessary) with the help of a wet saw or scoring cutter featuring a diamond-tripped blade.

• Grout Application

✓ Filling of the tiles’ gap is done using the grout. It can be applied to the joints with a rubber float.

✓ After application, allow the grout to set up for some minutes.

✓ Use sponge and a bucket of water to clear out any adhesive leftover.

• Grout Sealing

✓ Use a foam brush or applicator bottle for the sealants’ application.

✓ Clean out excess sealer within 10 minutes.