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When you think about installing an electric garage door, one thing that naturally comes to mind is that purchasing and fitting of an electric garage door would be an expensive luxury. Having a garage door controlled by a remote control will probably cost too much, right? Well, contrary to many beliefs, the average cost of an electric garage door in the UK isn’t as expensive or pricey as you would have earlier imagined it to be. Of course, the price of your new electric garage door depends on a wide variety of factors such as the type of garage you possess, its aperture, construction as well as the type of electric garage door you seek.

Electric garage door aren’t that expensive considering the protection and convenience they provide, making them a viable option that should be considered for your garage. In the UK, a steel up-and-over single garage door price ranges around £700 to £900 plus £150 to £250 installation fee. Whereas, a costly single timber, trackless overlap door can cost as much as £4,200 to £5000 with about £400 to £700 installation price. A double garage door will usually cost double the price to purchase with just a little increase in the cost of the fittings.

The convenience provided in using an electric garage door is one of the main reasons why most people would prefer fitting it in their house. Just the thought of arriving home and driving through the wall of your garage with just a click of a button and without having to leave the comfort of your vehicle can be very appealing. And also with a click of a button you can keep your garage safe and secure from any potential danger. At the end of the day, the convenience and other benefits that comes with an electric garage door largely outweighs the price involved.

This is one of most common and discussed dampness found in building. In recent times, condensation is the most common form of dampness, however positive identification and the right corrective action for both is vital. Rising damp is simply referred to as the flow of water upwards and vertically through permeable wall structure, the water being gotten from the ground. The moisture rises via the capillaries or pores in the masonry, meaning that the masonry functions just like a wick. With rising damp, water rises through the mortar beds and through the bricks. The mortar forms the only continuous pathway for the moisture to rise up the wall. Even if a house is built from impervious bricks then moisture can still rise through the mortar beds, however if an impervious brick is incorporated then water will not rise even if the bricks happens to be quite porous. In other words, mortar beds are an integral element in the chemical treatment for rising damp.

The moisture coming from the ground features small quantity of soluble salt which includes nitrates, chlorides as well as sulphates. These are transmitted with the water up the wall and are deposited and left behind when the moisture evaporation when drying. After some time, the salts will slowly accumulate and form a salt band close to the peak height of the rising damp. Chlorides and sulphates absorb water from the environment. Overall, the higher the quantity of salts, the greater the absorption of moisture from the environment and even more so when under humid conditions. In other words, even if rising dampness has been controlled by the installation of damp proof course, these salts can still make the wall and any affected decorations to remain damp.

The Oil Firing Technical Association or OFTEC operate a competent persons scheme to certify installers. It’s always recommended to use an installer with this certification as it proves they have the training and expertise to properly install your boiler and give you realistic advice on the efficiency of your system. Also, OFTEC registered installers offer Workmanship Warranties to protect you if there are any problems after installation.

a typical rate would be around ₤ 300 for suitable kitchen doors just from a local company, or up to ₤ 1200 from a large National supplier.

1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.

If you’re currently experiencing some structural issues with your building or property and you’ve heard a thing or two about the several benefits associated with getting underpinning done, you may be wondering if underpinning might just be the answer to your worries. Well, one thing you should when it comes to underpinning is the fact that, while there are some structural issues that may actually warrant an underpinning job, there are also some situations that can not be fixed by underpinning. In this post, we’re going to consider the events whereby underpinning of your house will be required. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, you should know that underpinning isn’t required for issues related to slab heave. Footing movements which are likely to reverse normally occur when the content of the soil moisture changes unevenly which gives rise to slab heave. This movement results for a reversible effect.

Generally, underpinning is done to remedy problems related with the movement of the footings of a building or property, but as stated above – not all movements require underpinning. So, when is underpinning required? More often than not, a situation that’s resolved by underpinning is the event whereby the footings of a building or structure drops or subside as a result of some reasons that are irreversible. For example, footing movements caused by a footing set on a soft or loose soil which may be irreversible.

In the event whereby the footings of your house haven’t been installed as deep as required during the initial construction, then you will need to have your building underpinned to make it more stable. If you’re also looking to increase the load on your foundation like adding another storey, you may also need to have your house underpinned to support the extra weight added.

Does It Take Long To Put A Solid Roof On A Conservatory?

If you’re interested in installing a solid roof on your conservatory, it may also interest you to know just how long the project is going to take. Well, the fitting of a solid conservatory roof is quite easy and quick with minimal disruption and mess around when done by a reliable professional. The process, however, involves removing the old existing roof of the conservatory rather than fitting the new roof over the old one which can lead to many complications. Generally, the entire process should take about 6 working days to complete. In this article, we’re going to provide a breakdown of each task as well as the duration to complete the individual tasks to give you an idea of the entire solid roof replacement process. Let’s take a look!

✓ Day 1 - Setting up of the site. This includes sealing off your conservatory from the rest of the house as well as laying of the floor protection. Furthermore, your existing conservatory roof will be removed and positioned in such a way to enable easy transportation and disposal. By the end of the first day, the installation of the new roof will completed and made to be water tight

✓ Day 2 - Insulation will be installed on the inside of your new solid roof.

✓ Day 3 - The replacement conservatory roof will be tiled and the insulated plasterboard will be installed inside.

✓ Day 4 - This involves finishing of the conservatory roof’s inside and outside. And all rubbish would be adequately disposed off.

✓ Day 5 - Your tiled conservatory roof’s new ceiling will be plastered.

✓ Day 6 - This day is free as the plaster is left to dry off properly.

The main features of a lean to conservatory is a flat angled roof which is backward sloping. This type of conservatory is best added to houses which do not have height or possesses only a small space. If you’re looking to install a lean to conservatory in your home or property, one of the first things you’d have to consider is the cost of getting it done so you can set a budget and start planning. In this article, we’ll give you an idea of how much a lean to conservatory price is, so you can have a rough estimate for your conservatory requirements.

Generally, the average cost of conservatory can be within the range of £5000 to £20000 and of course this depends on both the design and home. There are a number of influencing factors that can play a key role when it comes to determining how much you’ll be paying for your conservatory. Some of these factors include the size, style, material, colour as well as the roof type. All of these factors can greatly determine the overall price of your lean to conservatory, so you’d most likely have to approach the acquisition process as a multi-staged concept so as to get the perfect fit for your home in every level.

So with these factors in mind, a lean to conservatory style with a polycarbonate roof material will range between £8100 to £11900. A lean to conservatory style with a glass roof material will range between £9000 to £13200. Overall, the lean to style prices usually ranges from £3900 to £20000 depending on the size of the structure.