Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Chigwell.

Apart from the films where you’d notice cute little mickeys running around the house, in reality, only a few (if any) would feel comfortable living in a mice infested property. Being smart critters, mice can cause a home owner a series of issues when they infest a home or property. Rats are pests bringing about a plethora of health hazards. They’ll live comfortably off your food and under your shelter while also wrecking havoc everywhere they set their foot on in your home and even spread harmful diseases to humans. The wild rats can bite or even scratch when approached and will seek shelter anywhere possible like in your attic, kitchen, store and any damp area you can imagine. And worse still, they reproduce quickly as a female rat can give birth to six litters annually with up to 12 pups. Therefore, if left unattended to,an unwelcome visit can soon become an infestation within a little time.

To totally eradicate rats from your home, you can start by thinking like one. Like any other mammal, mice need food, water and shelter to survive and thrive. Removing one or all these three things can effectively help you get rid of rats in your home. Generally, there are several ways to get rid of rats which can be natural without the use of poison and artificial, with the use of poison.

The natural approach involves the use of peppermint oil and setting of traps. Using of peppermint oil is, however, not backed by any scientific evidence but according to several source it actually works. Simply dip a cotton wool inside a peppermint oil and place at strategic location throughout your home. Setting of traps can also be very trick as mice are very smart creatures who are always suspicious. So unless this is done in a cunning way, it might prove to be largely ineffective.

The most effective approach to get rid of mice by yourself would be to make use of poison. However, this method can be very deadly if not done with care. Overall, the best and safest way to eradicate mice from your home is to contact a professional pest control team for help as they possess the experience, knowledge and equipments to ensure a fast, safe and effective mice control.

How Much Is A Septic Tank?

If you’re living in the rural area, then you’d have a better idea of the septic tank concept and know that it’s installation is a very common job due to difficulty in accessing the mains sewage system. The system takes care of all the scum, sludge and waste water coming from the pipes all around the house in rooms like showers, sinks, toilets, laundry room and more. There are a lot of factors that you’ll have to consider as they all affect the price of replacing or installing a septic tank system. These influencing factors include the drainage systems, the underground or overground location, material, your location as well as labour.

However, generally, the average cost of material for a medium sized septic tank would typically cost within the range of £600 to about £800, while a large septic tank would be around £1000 to about £1,200. What’s more? The average cost to install a septic tank system with the material cost,labour cost and waste removal cost at heart normally ranges between £1,500 to about £2,000.

The material used is also a very common price determinant. Concrete happens to be the most common choice for many homeowners due to the fact that it’s very affordable and also durable ( can last u to 30 years). Generally, the cost for concrete septic tanks should range between £600 to £1,200.

Another pocket friendly option is plastic septic tanks because of its light material. Although, it’s made of plastic but they’re not vulnerable to cracks. They may, however, be affected by soil pressure in harsh conditions. They price usually ranges between £700 to £1,500.

Finally, the more expensive option which is the fibreglass which comes with a number of benefits. They won’t deteriorate or crack underground and can last up to 50 years. This type normally cost within the range of £1,000 to £2,000.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, just like other new extensions, you must have a foundation done for your lean to conservatory. In order to transfer the building’s weight to the floor safely, there’s a need to construct a foundation. Without it, the structural integrity of the extension would be heavily compromised. What’s more? While there’s no minimum depth requirement for a lean to conservatory, there are multiple factors that can affect the depth as well as type of the foundation. Let’s take a look!

• The nearby trees. What trees do is to absorb water from the soil which can affect the foundation significantly. When water is absorbed from the soil, the soil shrinks which affects the foundation’s strength. The size as well as type of the tree will determine the extent of the water absorption from the ground.
• The soil’s suitability. The weight that each soil can withstand varies and even more so, when environmental factors have more effect on certain types of soils than others. For instance, chalk is able to drain water away relatively easily which means that nearby trees will only have a little effect on its quality. Clay, on the other hand, shrinks when drying and also retains a lot of water. This means that nearby trees will have huge impact on clay soil which will compromise the structural integrity of the lean to conservatory. Therefore, since changes to clay mostly occur to about 0.75m depth, foundations on the soil should be constructed deeper to compensate.
• Undisturbed ground. Before the foundations are laid, there’s a need to identify grounds that hasn’t been built on and this usually takes a depth of about 1m (this figure may vary especially in regions where drains have been laid).

If your old kitchen is due for an upgrade, one of the first things that comes to is the potential cost of a getting replacement. In this post, we’re going to consider the amount a new kitchen is expected to cost. Let’s take a look!

Generally, fitted kitchen prices can be extremely high and even a budget project can cost huge bucks. In addition, you’re even likely to pay more if you’re interesting in getting a designer brand and shiny appliances. So how much will a new kitchen? Well, there’s no simple and direct answer to this question as there are a number of factors that play a major part in the determination of the price. These factors include the shape of the kitchen, the most preferred layout as well as the kitchen’s size.

On the average, a new kitchen will normally be around £8000. You should however note that this price is fitting and VAT inclusive, but excludes appliances and any preparation works that may or may not be required such as plastering walls, removing wallpaper as well as ripping out the old kitchen.

If you wish to keep the costs down, then you might want to set a budget before you start shopping for a new kitchen, know your most preferred kitchen and remove the old kitchen yourself. A good example of DIY effort which can go a long way to save and even make you some bucks is taking out the old cabinets by yourself and selling them off. You’d be amazed that there’ll people who are willing to pay £20 or more for a couple of old cupboards.

This varies according to the quality of the conservatory and installation work. If these are both high quality, your conservatory should last at least 25 years. But obviously if you notice deterioration or leaks, then this could be an early warning sign that time is running out.

If you’re thinking about getting a new combi boiler, you may be wondering just how much it’s going to cost so as to start making preparations as soon as possible. However, providing a precise cost for the acquisition and installation of a new combi boiler is simply impossible as combi boiler prices vary greatly in price - usually ranging between £1500 to about £3500 based on the brand of the combi boiler, the insurance or warranty, installation, your location as well as the size and power of the appliance. Due to the fact that combi boilers are compact units which doesn’t need a hot water cylinder or a cold water tank to produce heating and hot water for homes, it’s a very popular type of boiler that’s frequently used especially in the UK.

Combi boilers are also widely known to be the most energy efficient type of boiler because they are able to provide an instant supply of hot water anytime you turn on a tap. Combi boilers particularly perfect for flats and houses where space is limited as they have the ability to deliver instant heating and hot water without requiring any extra parts or components.

In the event whereby you’re about to choose a combi boiler for your home or property, it’s always advisable to compare models as well as prices from only the most reliable and sought after brands across the globe. Depending on the manufacturer, the overall quality of the boilers as well as their prices can differ. However, regardless of your budget, you’ll discover there are a plethora of combi boilers available in the market that’ll also suit your taste.

• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.