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If you are planning to invest in a new satellite dish, then you’d probably want to know the most suitable receiver to incorporate. If you have this same concern, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into the world of satellite dish receivers in order to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, it must be stated that there happens to be a plethora of LNB types, makes and models available in the market today and picking the right one for your satellite is crucial as the wrong one may imply your satellite will not work. The most common LNB types are single LNBs and Quad LNBs.

The major difference between all types is the amount of output possessed by each LNB. This is what allows extra satellite receivers to be added for additional TV points as well as the inclusion of satellite PVRs which features recordable, play, pause and rewind TV services. For example, a single LNB possesses just one LNB connection for a coaxial cable to be attached. This allows you to connect a standard satellite receiver such as Freesat box or Sky. There are also dual or twin LNB, quad LNB and octo LNB which allows for two (or one satellite PVR), four (two PVRs or one PVR and two standard satellite receivers) and eight separate satellite receivers (four PVRs or combination of both) respectively. There are many other LNB types you can choose from with varying features, so it all depends on your requirements.

Is Electric Heating Expensive?

Well, electric heating being termed as “expensive is relative to your budget. But we can tell you making use of electric heating will cost you within the range of an additional £300 to £400 per year more than the conventional gas powered systems. Meanwhile the average UK home making use of heating has been found to incur around £550 on an annual basis while those using electric storage heaters will spend almost £900 every year, according to OVO Energy.

However, there are numerous benefits of using electric heating and some of which can contribute to give a lower cost. If you’re considering the installation of an electric heating, here are some of the benefits you’ll derive.

• Safety. The several risks that comes with traditional systems are greatly reduced with an electric heating system. For instance, there’s no risk of carbon monoxide emissions or potential explosions since there’s no use of fuel to run the system.

• Installation. When compared to traditional systems, electric heating quite inexpensive to fit. This is due to the fact that minimal hardware are needed in the installation - no pipes, no flues, no vents and no ducts to be used. As a result, electric heating systems can also be installed within a shorter period of time.

• Environment. Generally, electricity has a positive impact on the environment especially due to the fact that there are no gasses or heavy metals incorporated in the system’s make up.

• Control. Electric heating offers a more convenient and controllable system. What’s more? This does not only make life easier, but can also help save as much as 30 percent on yearly cost of heating as well as helping to minimize toxic carbon emission. Furthermore, there’s a built in Wi-Fi that usually comes with electric heating systems while same can not be said of traditional gas systems.

Your LPG storage tank will need to go outside your property, possibly underground if you have limited space. There are planning rules that restrict where you can put your tank, especially if your property is listed or on designated land. Take a look at our planning permission article to find out more.

When it comes to extending your home or creating more living space, you can either construct an extension, transform a current space or add a conservatory. While all the three available options to create more living space in your home are worth giving a shot, the wooden conservatory happens to be the easiest and cheapest of them all. If you are thinking about building wooden conservatory of your own, then you’d probably want to know exactly how much its going to cost. The simple answer is that it depends on multiple factors such as the type of wood required, the size, style as well as the quality of materials to be incorporated in your final conservatory design.

The most significant determinant, however, is the type of wood required. Below is a breakdown of the prices based on this factor:

• Hardwood Conservatory

Hardwood such as elm and beech are one of best options for building conservatories due to their complex structure which helps increase the durability and stability of conservatories. The price of an average hardwood conservatory without fitting usually ranges £10,000 to £15,000.

• Oak Conservatory

Due to its popularity and high availability, oak is a very common wood type used in the construction of conservatories. And as a result, it can be gotten within a range of £9,000 to £10,000 for just the wood. Oak can also be made to be resistant to bugs and pests. The price of this type of oak wooden conservatory jumps to around £15,000 to £20,000.

• Timber Conservatory

This refers to various types of wood that’s readily available before being subjected to treatment in different plants or factories. Due to its rather rough exterior and lack of a clean finish, this type of wood is usually gotten at a giveaway price. Depending on the type of wood, the price to buy just a timber conservatory kit can vary between £10,000 to £20,000.

Click here to learn more about wooden conservatories

What Is The Difference Between A Conservatory And An Orangery?

If you’re looking to build an extension for your home, one of the first things that comes to mind is the type of structure that would best suit your property. When it comes to glass extensions there are two major varieties which includes the traditional conservatory and the orangery, but there are usually a lot of confusion over the differences of these two varieties. With the growth in popularity of glazed extensions, the differences between the two structures are becoming more and more thin. However, the main difference between a conservatory and an orangery is the number of glass incorporated. Conservatories are fully glazed structures featuring a low brick base wall, meanwhile orangeries are grand brick structures with with glazed roofs. But as a result of innovations of over the years in glazing, the difference has changed a bit.

Here are some of the major differences between a conservatory and an orangery.

✓ Orangeries are generally best suited to traditional-styled homes or with older property making use of matching stone or brick in construction. Meanwhile for a more recent or modern property, a conservatory will be the better option to add the flair to your property.

✓ Conservatories tend to be larger than orangeries, therefore if you want a smaller extension, an orangery would be your best bet.

✓ Orangeries are typically rectangular in shape and is traditionally a more regular building meanwhile a conservatory can be shaped to suit your needs. With an conservatory, you can get a T-shaped, L-shaped, curved, double ended and lean-to extensions to suit your preference.

✓ An orangery usually possess a flat roof at the edges with a glazed lantern section right at the centre. You can also find more luxurious orangeries having two or more lantern sections. However, when it comes to the roofing, conservatories generally have more options. Some are gabled or pitched, others are lean-to with a plethora of choice to finish off the roof.

Is Asbestos Dangerous?

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, asbestos is absolutely dangerous. Exposure to asbestos fibres and dust can lead to cancer, lung disease and lots more. It’s known to be so dangerous that no level of exposure to asbestos is considered safe. It has been banned in the UK since 1999 but exposure is till rampant due to the exceptions to the ban and there’s a good chance that you’ll find it in several older buildings and homes. And despite the ban in most countries, asbestos related health issues are still on the rise across the globe. People that are mostly exposed to this risk are those who’re exposed on the job as well as those who simply like to take on projects around the house containing asbestos insulation by themselves.

Furthermore, there’s a need to observe safety precautions when working with asbestos. If not, you’ll be exposing both you and your family to long term health risks. Below are some of the things you need to know about the dangers of asbestos.

✓ Exposure to asbestos fibres has no safe level. So it’s best to avoid exposure at all costs.

✓ Breathing in asbestos dust can lead to lung cancer, asbestosis and mesothelioma.

✓ If disturbed, asbestos can release dangerous particles of dust containing asbestos fibres.

✓ Mesothelioma is a type of cancer which mostly affects the lung’s lining. It has no cure.

✓ If you smoke, then the risk of inhaling asbestos is greatly increased.

✓ The number of fibres inhaled as well as the length of time that you’ve been exposed to it increases the risk of contracting asbestos related diseases.

✓ The symptoms of asbestos dust related diseases do not commonly come out until its about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

How Much Does A Loft Room Cost

In the event whereby you happen to run out of space in your home and extending sideways or moving out isn’t even a considerable option, the next best solution is to look upwards - the loft. The loft can be converted into a room that can used to satisfy varying purposes, be it a storage room, bedroom, home office, spare bathroom and more. There are a number of loft conversion styles you can go for including a room in loft conversion, dormer style conversion, mansard conversion, or a hip-to-gable conversion. Regardless of your choice, each of the types will not only give you new rooms to enjoy but also add value to your home. However, before getting started, it’s crucial to have an idea of the loft conversion cost to help you prepare a budget and begin planning. Here, you’ll discover the most likely loft room cost for each conversion style you opt for.

• Room In Loft Conversion

This is only suitable for some specific home, but it’s however the most affordable option of the lots. This loft conversion style will cost within the range of £15,000 to £20,000 (prices can be higher in regions where tradesmen are higher in demand such as London and the south east).

• Dormer Loft Conversion

These are relatively simple and straightforward to include in your home. The cost ranges between £31,000 to £58,000 depending on the conversion’s size and other factors.

• Hip To Gable Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is more complex than the aforementioned ones, hence they’re usually more costly to complete. The price ranges between £42,000 to £65,000.

• Mansard Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is the most complex of the lot and includes a complete overhaul of your loft. The price ranges between £45,000 to £70,000.

• Bungalow Loft Conversion

Any of the main styles above can be done to a bungalow if the planning requirements are fully complied with and if the property is suitable. The price ranges between £30,000 to £70,000.