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As the summer months draw nearer, you get better accustomed to the ambient noise produced by your air conditioning system which is constantly in operation to keep your home cool and comfortable for both you and your loved ones. During this period, it’s absolutely normal to expect a spike in your energy bill and wish to know how you can limit the expenses without having to sacrifice your home’s temperature. In this guide, we’re going to consider some of the major ways you can save energy in your home without having to sacrifice your air conditioning system. Let’s take a look!

1. Reduce phantom loads. This is an electronic appliance that still makes use of energy even when turned off and not in operation. These phantom loads are actually everywhere in your home but you just don’t know that the television, toaster or even your phone’s charger continue to suck electricity when they’re not in use.
2. Incorporate more energy-efficient appliances. Before making a purchase, ensure that the appliance has the Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star Label as they use 10 to 15 percent less energy than their counterparts.
3. Change out your light bulbs. The older your incandescent light bulb gets, the more energy it consumes. You can cut cost by reglarly changing them out.
4. Install a programmable thermostat. With such a device, you can adjust your home’s temperature to your schedule and needs to cover for the time when you would not be home.
5. Use fan. A cooling fan can significantly lower the cost of running an AC system.
6. Seal all air leaks. Blocking all air leaks in your home is a great way to ensure energy is well maximized
7. Make your windows more efficient.
8. Enhance you insulation
9. Conduct a regular servicing of your AC unit
10. Setting the air conditioning temperature higher at night

More often than not, when we think about replacing our old or existing door with a new unit, we tend to get a bit creative. We think about the panel to use, but often forget about the door’s frame which is just as important. The frame is way beyond an ordinary trimming that serves as a boundary for the slabs, it also ensures the door opens with ease and also sees that heat are being locked in and security is tight. There are a variety of frame options available when fitting a new door, and putting a composite door in a uPVC frame is one. In this article, we’ll give you an idea of the great effects of composite door and uPVC frame combination and help you make informed decision about the best setup that’ll perfectly satisfy all your doorway needs and budget.

Putting a composite door in a uPVC frame or a uPVC door in a composite frame is without a doubt the most popular door/frame combinations. In fact, you’d be shocked just how well a composite door and uPVC frame complements and supports each other in either alteration. If you’re the type that likes the unmatched levels of insulation, visual appeal as well as security that’s provided by composite doors, fitting this in a UPVC frame is really one that’ll set you apart. This combination is the most loved and for a good reason. You’ll get to open your door with ease while it also remains weathertight, save some money using the usually less costly uPVC frames and ultimately, combine the strengths of both materials incorporated. What’s more? It’s an opportunity for you to make a striking impression on all your visitors.

You don’t always need scaffolding to replace guttering. If your home is a bungalow, the tradespeople might only need a ladder to replace your guttering. It’s when your home is two storeys or more that scaffolding is more necessary.

You might not need full scaffolding for a simple two-storey home. Guttering specialists use scaffold towers, which are the platforms you see underneath the scaffolding, where the installation is relatively straightforward. You might need scaffolding to replace guttering when there are obstructions to towers being used – for example, if you have a conservatory or the ground is very uneven. It's more likely that specialist roofline companies will use scaffold towers when necessary. Sole traders that replace guttering as part of their services may be comfortable using sturdy ladders.

There’s no legal requirement to say that you must have scaffolding when fitting guttering, but it is a good idea when working on homes rather than bungalows. If you’re unsure whether you need full scaffolding for your gutter replacement project, get a few quotes from reputable businesses of different sizes. If you’ve been quoted by one company that you need full scaffolding whereas everyone else says that only towers are needed, it’s likely that the job is perfectly safe to carry out with just towers.

How Much To Landscape A Garden?

Also known as a nation of gardeners, the UK is filled with individuals who take their outdoors seriously. As a result, it’s little surprise many people over here employ the services of expert landscape gardeners to help out with various tasks such as decking, building patios, ponds and reshaping their gardens to keep them in a top condition and make them a lot more useful. However, before you get started with your landscape gardening task, you’d like to figure out a estimate of the amount it’s going to cost. Let’s have a look!

Providing an accurate assessment of a generic landscape gardening project is almost impossible as gardens are all unique. A total refurbishment of a big garden will definitely run into thousands of pounds even before accounting for essential items like garden furnitures and planting. We’ll break them down to smaller elements of landscape gardening and give a rough estimate of the cost.

Firstly, a patio is an effective means of increasing your garden’s usability whose cost varies depending on the materials used. Generally, a patio will cost within the range of £70 to £90. This price may be higher in areas with greater demands like London.

A decking also serves the same purposes as a patio or paved area. However, it’s usually made of wood which delivers a much more natural feel perfect for the garden. The cost of decking varies largely depending on the wood incorporated. For instance, if you opt for a cheaper wood such as pine, the cost you can expect to pay would be within the range of 60 pounds to 80 pounds per square metre. However, for more quality and durable hardwood, you’ll have to pay about 200 pounds per square metre or more.

Over the years, more and more home and property owners are beginning to realize the huge benefits that can be derived from loft insulation being a worthwhile investment. It’s quite worrisome the way in which energy bills have soared over the past 10 years and loft insulation is a considerable affordable energy efficiency measure that can go a long way to help increase your home’s energy savings.

As far back as the 1980’s, the standard when it comes to insulation thickness was 25 mm to 50 mm which was, at the time, considered to be sufficient. However, building regulations have changed the norm that now states that a new build needs to possess 270 mm of insulation in the loft in order to achieve the required u-value of less than 0.16/m2k based on the standard rock wool or sheep wool insulation.

Generally with loft insulation, there’s a law of depreciating returns which implies that the first couple of insulation centimetres will save you many times the cost of the installation, however an extra layer or centimetre is going to add less value to the point where it’ll no longer be wise or worthwhile to add any further centimetre. Therefore, with cheaper energy prices 30 years back, that additional couple of centimetres was not just worthwhile, but with the recent alarming rises in costs of fuel, that additional £10 savings per year has all of sudden changed to £30 which makes it become a lot more attractive.

If you already have 270 mm of loft insulation, regardless of the material you’re looking to add you’re most likely not going to benefit from a top up. The cost of the materials and installation will definitely be too high for the couple of pounds it’ll save you per year.

In most areas, you will not need planning permission. However, if the property is listed or in a conservation area, you will need listed building consent or planning permission to paint the exterior. A surveyor or architect's advice will be invaluable as they can help with this process.

Are you considering converting your garage into a more usable space in your home? If yes, then you’d probably want to know if you’ll require building regs before converting the garage. The answer to this question is yes. Although you may not require planning approval to convert your garage into a more usable space, but you’d usually need approval under the Building Regulations.

When re-structuring your garage into a habitable space, the following should be taken into consideration: structural alterations, ventilation, moisture proofing, insulation, fireproofing, escape routes as well as the submission of a building building notice or full plan application to the local council in order to inform them about the planned project.

• Walls

You’ll require an approval if you plan to infill the garage door with a window and a new wall. This is because the garage may have been built of a shallow slab which implies that a new foundation would be needed for the new wall construction.

• Floor

Even though there’s a high possibility that the garage floor is strong enough for domestic use since its designed to withstand the weight of vehicles, you may however need to upgrade to make sure it suitable for both thermal insulation and damp proofing. In addition, there may also be the need to to alter the floor level in such a way that it matches that of the remaining parts of the house.

• Ventilation

According to the Building Regulations requirements, there’s a need for adequate ventilation for each individual rooms which includes garage conversions for general health purposes. What’s going to determine the ventilation level that’ll be required is the frequency at which the room is used. Ventilation can be provided through purge or simply opening the window or via trickle ventilation.