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Adding a lean to conservatory to your home or property comes with a whole lot of benefits. It provides you with the much needed additional living space within your property, add value to your home and creates a link between your home and garden. As advantageous as it is, one of the major concerns several homeowners have is whether or not is requires a planning permission. This is a crucial question that must be answered before you make financial commitment to the project. If you don’t know what you’re doing the entire process can be very tedious and you definitely do not want to go through the stress of completing your remarkable new conservatory, only to be instructed to have it removed again. In this post, we’re going to consider if obtaining a planning permission is required before adding a lean to conservatory to your property.

Generally, adding a lean to conservatory to a property is considered to be a “Permitted Development, which implies that you won’t have to apply for a planning permission to complete the project without any risk of interruption from the appropriate authorities. However, there certain circumstance that’ll require a planning permission. These circumstances include:

• If the conservatory covers more than 50 percent of the land around the main house.
• If the conservatory will be placed on the side of the house that faces the road.
• If the conservatory will be higher than the highest point of the main building’s roof.
• If the main building is lower than the height of the eaves and ridge.
• If the conservatory will be constructed to the side of the house and more than a single storey or it goes higher than 4 metres.
• If the conservatory will be wider than the width of the main building, if it’s to be built beside it.
• If the conservatory will be constructed at the rear and higher than 4 metres.

The main reason that people use cladding or rendering on their property is the aesthetic benefit. These materials can really boost the appearance of a home. Cladding and rendering can also increase the thermal performance of a property. Speak to a specialist to find out whether your property will benefit.

First and foremost, it must be stated that replacing an existing electric shower is much easier than fitting one from new. This is primarily due to the fact that the main components required which includes the water pipes as well as electrical connections will have already been established. In this post, we’re going to assume that all these are already in place which means you’re replacing an existing electric shower with a new one. It’ll also be an advantage if the preferred electric shower features cable and pipe entry points at the top and bottom as well as the rear and side so as to allow for more flexibility when it gets to routing cables and pipes. If you’re not confident enough to pull off this task, then it’s strong advisable to call in a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. Here are the steps you can follow to fit your electric shower:

• Disconnect the power supply as you probably know water and electricity aren’t particularly the best of friends. Once done, you’ll also need to turn off the water supply
• Remove the shower unit. Many shower units are secured with four screws which makes the removal rather straightforward.
• Examine the shower connection points to determine if they’re in the same place on the new unit as they were on the old one.
• Install the new shower unit. First, you’ll have to mark the position of the new units on the wall using a pencil. If the new units don’t possess the same silhouette as the old one, you’ll have to drill new ones preferably using a masonry drill bit.
• Check your installation at both the electrical and water supply to ensure the connection is made correctly.
• Test your new electric shower by turning the power and water supplies back on.

When it comes to laying of bricks, it is essential to get the right mortar mix. It is vital, be it for construction or maintenance projects, so far mortar is required. There are several materials incorporated in getting mortar which includes both cement and sharp sand, soft sand or plasterer’s sand and lots more. Here, we are going to look at the right ratio for cement and sand mix in bricklaying.

Cement include ingredients such as iron, aluminium, as well as silicon and it is mainly used for mortars like aerated cement mortar, Portland cement mortar and gauged mortar. Sand, on the other hand, comes in different forms such as sharp sand, soft sand and plasterer’s sand. The sharp sand consists of a larger grain size than the others and is usually incorporated in the construction areas that requires more strength as well as flexibility. Soft sand is the most common one used in mortar and it’s also referred to as bricklayers’ sand. These are used to make all types of mortar. Finally the plasterer’s sand which neither has the sharp sand’s coarseness nor the fineness of the soft sand, but can also be used for any form of mortar.

Cement and sand mortar is used for a plethora of bricklaying jobs serving as a glue for bricks, walls and pillars, while also repairing or maintaining old listed buildings. The preferred ratio here is 1:3 to 1:5 of cement and building sand. Meanwhile, to get a sand cement mix, essential materials that are required includes water, soft building sand as well as cement. However, you must also note that a sand and cement mortar is not used for structural projects, rather a concrete ratio is used.

Once you’ve chosen the perfect feature to suit the shape and style of your bathroom, it’s time to start putting it to good use. Read on for a step-by-step guide on how to install a bath, but first of all, below are the preparatory tools;

Preparation

Before you install a bath, there are some things that needs to be taken into considerations.Once you have decided where you are going to install your bath, use an electronic detector to make sure there are no hidden pipes or wires in the walls where you will be securing the fittings. It is also advisable to choose walls that have a stud so that you can attach your fittings so strongly.

When assembling your bath, lay it on top of a rug or blanket to ensure it doesn’t get scratched, and remove any protective film from the areas you will be working on, such as around the drain and tap fittings, as well as the sides where the bath will sit against the wall. Always turn off the water at the mains beforehand.

Note: The installation process will vary, depending on the design of your bath. It is always necessary to consult the manufacturer instructions alongside this guide.

MATERIALS

• Drill and appropriate drill bit
• Screwdriver
• Spirit level
• Tape measurer
• Hammer
• Pencil
• Caulking gun and silicone sealant

You’ll also need an extra pair of hands to help manoeuvre the bath into place.

Step 1

Attach the legs and the fittings by securing the appropriate bolts and channels, and then attach the feet.

Step 2

Measure and adjust the bath's position, Once you are sure that your bath is level, mark the places where it will be secured into the walls and floor. If your bath comes with wall fittings, use your pencil to mark the place where they will be secured to the walls. Do the same for the floor fittings.

Step 3

Prepare the wall for the fittings, align it with the wall at the location you marked and use your spirit level to make sure it is even. Drill holes and secure in place, making sure you use fittings that are suitable for the type of walls in your bathroom.

Step 4

Secure your bath by moving the bath back into the final position and align it with the holes you created, or on top of the timber batten. Once again, check that it is level. Turn the water back on and check for any leaks.

Step 5

Seal around the rim, fill it with water and trace silicone sealant around the edges, where the rim meets the wall. Allow it to dry for the recommended time.

1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

Whether you think resin bound driveways are expensive or not will depend on your perception. While resin bound driveways are the most expensive up front, they should last much longer than other types of driveway. You should expect a resin bound driveway to last at least 25 years, if not longer, while a concrete or asphalt driveway may last between 15-20 years. A pattern imprinted driveway may last even less time due to the maintenance required to keep them looking pristine.

It’s also worth considering that resin bound driveways are good permeable surfaces, so will drain well and keep water from pooling around your property. This will keep your property maintenance costs down, since pooling water or flooding around your home could cause damp in your walls which is a very expensive problem to fix.

Resin bound driveways are by far the most attractive type of driveway to have. There are no loose stones to sweep up, no weeds to pull out from the gaps, and there’s no extensive power washing required to keep them looking good. If you want a driveway that gives your home true kerb appeal and you value your time, resin bound driveways don’t seem that expensive.

The other factor that can make resin bonded driveways less expensive is that sometimes you can lay them on top of the existing surface. For example, if you already have a concrete or asphalt driveway that is in good condition with no large cracks, a driveway contractor may be able to lay the resin and aggregate mix straight over the top, which will cost much less money than if you have to dig up the existing driveway and start from scratch.

Not if they are under 1 metre high if next to a road or 2 metres high elsewhere. It’s always recommended to check with your neighbours and the local authority if you are unsure. Other restrictions may apply, for example if a fence might impact driver visibility on nearby roads.