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A bedroom is meant to be a quiet zone and personal getaway from the chaos of the outside world. However, there are times when the noise coming from the outside would just be too unbearable to put up with. You can’t always control the noise that surrounds your bedroom and even more so when it comes from the neighbours’ house or the streets. The best solution here would be to mitigate this with some simple soundproofing solutions. These are tricks can you can do by yourself, however if you’re not confident enough to pull this off, then it’s advisable to get in touch with a seasoned professional for help. In this guide, we’re going to walk you through the bedroom soundproofing techniques. Let’s take a look!

• Cover the gap under the door. One of the means through which sound can travel into your bedroom is beneath your bedroom door. In order to tackle this in an effective way, you can close it by adhering rubber weather stripping to the bottom of the door.
• Upgrade the door of your bedroom. If your bedroom has a hollow core door which possesses a thin outer layer of wood with plastic or cardboard inside, then you’re likely to be feel more noise in your personal space than if you install a solid wood door. Making use of a heavy duty solid wood door will help block out unwanted noises from your room.
• Put the sound in the cloud. The solution may actually lie in the cloud particularly a ceiling cloud which is an acoustical foam cloud that is hung from the room’s ceiling to block out echoes and absorb noises.

As an environmentally conscious homeowner, it’s very likely you would have heard of a wood pellet boiler or maybe even considering fitting one in your home or property. So if you’ve heard about wood pellet boilers, you’d probably want to know about it especially how it works. In this article, we’re going to walk you through the wood pellet boilers operating process. Let’s take a look!

✓ Typically, wood pellet boilers possess 4 major components, these includes a burner ( which ignites or burns the pellets), a hopper ( which stores unused pellets), a conveyor ( which works to carry the pellets from the hopper to the burner where its ignited) and lastly, a controller ( which responds automatically to your thermostat and appliances’ demands).

✓ In the event whereby your thermostat demands heat or if you happen to switch on a hot water tap or appliance, pellets will be automatically fed into the burner which in turn ignites it and set the firing rate to match the needed heating load.

✓ In a situation whereby more pellets is needed by your boiler, the vacuum or augur system will act by pulling pellets from your bulk pellet storage bin and automatically refill itself.

✓ The wood pellet boiler will clean the burn pot and heat exchanger areas ( moving ash into the ash bin), during and after the burn cycles. The ash bin will be emptied once for every 2 to 3 ton of pellet that’s ignited.

Other facts about wood pellet boilers

✓ The wood pellet boiler can be directly linked to existing plumbing and heating system, regardless of whether or not there’s an existing heating oil boiler remaining.

✓ Wood pellets can be stored in bulk in a storage bin outside your home as the bins are generally weather resistant and also very durable.

Condensing boilers are the in-thing when it comes to modern heating systems in UK homes and across the globe for a good reason. This is primarily due to the fact that condensing boilers happens to be highly efficient as it enables the fuel you’re burning to heat up your home go a lot further. Having a new high efficiency condensing boiler rather than an old G-rated non condensing boiler will not only enhance your heating controls, but also save you a lot of money annually. In this article, we’re going to take you through the basics of a condensing boiler. Let’s take a closer look!

If you’re interested in getting a greener and more efficient boiler, you simply can’t afford to look beyond a high efficiency condensing boiler. This is purely due to the fact that these condensing boilers happens to make a better use of the heat they’re able to produce from burning fuels like oil or gas ( in other words, they require less heat from the burner, which makes them a lot more efficient).

So how does a condensing boiler work? Unlike a non-condensing heat-nly boiler, some heat will be wasted in form of hot gases which are released from the flue. Meanwhile a condensing boiler captures some of the heat from these gases and puts them to use for heating up water that’s coming back from your central heating system. As a result, it requires just a minimal heat from the burner which make the boiler more efficient.

You should take note that all new modern boilers are condensing boilers. Therefore if you’re planning to replace an old boiler with a new one, you’ll definitely be buying a new condensing boiler and benefit from all the efficiency and savings that comes with it.

You should make sure that all signs of damp have gone before you redecorate your walls. If you want to paint your walls with a water-permeable emulsion paint, you can usually do this after 1 or 2 months. For other types of decoration you should wait longer.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

Laying artificial grass is a popular project – it’s a great way to create a smart, low-maintenance garden. There are plenty of professionals around who are experts at installing artificial grass, but it’s possible to DIY too if you’re feeling confident.

Lots of homeowners choose to replace their existing turf with artificial grass, so lay it on soil. To do this, start by clearing the area of any greenery or turf. Then remove any extra soil to a depth of about 40mm. You might want to leave the centre of your area slightly higher than the edges for a more natural look.

Next, you need to add a weed membrane and a sharp sand sub-base. It doesn’t really matter which one of these you do first, but you might find it easier to lay the weed membrane first and then use the sand to weigh it down, to a depth of about 35mm. Use a rake and plank to make the sand level, and compact it with a plank and heavy hammer. It doesn’t need to be completely flat – gentle slopes are fine. The weed membrane should overlap joints by 300mm.

After you’ve done this, you can lay your grass. Roll it out, trim it to size and fasten it in place. Make sure the ends of the grass rolls are staggered so they don’t end in a line. Lay the artificial grass with the pile (the strands) leaning towards the house so it looks nice and full when you’re looking out from the house. If you’ve decided to use edging boards, you can nail the grass into the tops of the boards. Or, if you haven’t, use ground pins to anchor it into the soil. Brush the grass and you’re done!

As well as keeping your home warmer and reducing noise, you’ll notice a saving on your energy bills from installing double glazing. If you install A++ rated windows in your home after having single glazing, you could save up to £120 year on your energy bills. The Energy Saving Trust has more information.