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Windows, being a very crucial feature in every home, are one of the things you simply can’t afford to ignore in your home. Having a good understanding and solid knowledge of your windows’ components like the window sash will help you stay up to date with them and able to identify any minor mishaps early on before it leads to a much bigger problem. So what exactly is a window sash?

Well without much fuss, a window sash is simply that part of your windows that’s able to open and close. And there could as well be more than one window sash that’s operable depending on your window’s type. Window sash usually possess a very basic design as well as structure. What’s more? This section of a window happens to be a frame that’s designed in such a way to make for easy placement inside the whole window casement. You’ll discover inside the sash frame, the window glass alongside any framework possessed by your window which includes grids.

Usually, the sash is fitted into the frame of the window on a runners’ set in such a way that allows for both upward and downward movements. And finally, the window sash’s frame typically comes with a locking system which provided for extra safety and security.

The window sash is a vital feature that can determine the durability and overall performance of the windows. In the event whereby your window sash is malfunctioning, it can result to numerous problems which includes both drafts as well as leaks. As a result, it’s very important to keep your window sashes in a great working condition as failure to do so will make opening and closing your windows a really difficult task.

Solar panels are made up of photovoltaic (PV) cells. These cells are made from silicon semiconductors, which absorb sunlight and convert it into electricity.

There are three main types of PV cell: monocrystalline solar cells, polycrystalline solar cells, and thin film solar cells. Monocrystalline cells are usually the most efficient and expensive, and thin film solar cells are the cheapest and least efficient. These are all made from silicone, but are manufactured in different ways.

Cleaning block paving is a fairly straightforward task, although you’ll want to be careful to not use any chemicals that may cause damage to the surface. Use a simple household soap, mixed with water, and brush this across the paving with a stiff brush. Then, simply rinse off with clean water. Alternatively, use a pressure washer – but be careful not to use it on a powerful setting, as this may damage the joints and can cause slabs to come loose. Using the pressure washer on a medium setting and at a 45 degree angle is recommended.

When it comes to electrical works, safety is always paramount. Although a complete house rewiring service may seem quite expensive, when compared to the safety it provides, you’d realize it’s well worth it. We know all too well that human nature tends to prevail to overlook small electrical issues until it’s too late or probably gets out of hands. When this happens, not only will you have to spend more to get the issue resolved, but it may also lead to some damages to your property. Hence, the need to identify and resolve electrical deficiencies as soon as possible. In this post, we’ve compiled a shortlist of some of the top signs that your house needs rewiring. Let’s take a look!

• Dimming or flickering lights. This is one of the most common signs that your house needs to be rewired. When a light brightens, it means there’s too much voltage and when it dims, it implies it’s receiving too little voltage. You may be tempted to think this is a lighbulb issue, but this type of decline in power is usually as a result of a loose wiring or faulty circuits which should not be ignored.
• Regularly blown fuses. With the steady development in technology as well as electrical appliances within our houses, older style fuses that are not designed to contain this amount of electricity will end up blowing. If your fuse blows on a more regular basis, then there may be a need to upgrade them to more modern circuit breakers.
• Lightbulbs burning out in their sockets. This is usually a sign of bigger issues in your wiring which is often caused by fluctuations in voltage.
• Sparking outlets. These can be perfectly normal, but at times they can also be a clear signal of a potentially dangerous problem which should not be ignored.

Artex is a water based decorative surface coating is typically incorporated on both walls and ceilings so as to apply a pattern. During the peak of its popularity in the 1970’s, it was considered the height of fashion when it comes to interior wall designs however its major drawback remains the fact that it usually contains asbestos especially if it was manufactured before the laws governing the use of asbestos was changed in the year 2000. And asbestos, as we know it, can be deadly when disturbed and its fibres are inhaled.

If you have artex installed in your purchased property and you do not know when the artex walls were done, or perhaps you just want to change the aesthetic design of your home into something more modern and to your personal taste, then you may want to remove the existing artex from your property for good. If this is your wish then you’ve come to the right place.

To remove artex from your walls you can choose to do so using the steaming method or through the use of an external product.

Using the steaming method, you should know that it’ll be more labour intensive and time consuming. You need a lot of patience moving your steamer slow and steady because if left on a spot for too long can damage the wall behind the coating. Once the artex has been dampened with the steamer, you can then scrape them off with a handheld scraper.

A faster solution would be to use an external product to remove your artex.  For example, you can use X-Tex which is a water-based coating remover. All you need to do is paint the substance over your artex wall and leave to dry for about 30 to 60 minutes before peeling away the artex.

Being a commonly used building material in the 1950’s to about 1990’s, asbestos is very popular back in the days and used for almost every roofing project because of it fire resistant properties. They’re mostly mixed with cement and are known to last for over 4 decades.

Due to the harmful properties found in asbestos, the material was totally banned in the UK since the year 1999. It’s found that when disturbed, asbestos releases some fibres which when inhaled can result in some deadly health conditions such as lung cancer and asbestosis, which are all fatal. These diseases are mostly not detected until several years after the first exposure to the asbestos fibres, which makes them even more deadly. Hence, it’s crucial to know how to identify asbestos roof tiles so you can have them removed by a professional immediately. In this article, we’ll show you what you can look out for to identify asbestos roof tiles. Let’s take a look!

Asbestos roof tiles are typically square shaped and they also generally possess a combination of grey and black colour. Although asbestos can feature a number of colours based on the kind of material you mix with it. In truth, asbestos can be very tricky to identify, when disturbed not only are their fibres totally invisible to the naked eye but they’re also completely odourless. This implies that you may not even be aware that you’re exposed to such harmful material for a prolonged period of time. In order to accurately identify asbestos roof tiles, the only thing you can possibly do is to call in a UKAS accredited laboratory to have them tested. This way, you’ll have a peace of mind knowing the result will point you in the right direction.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

How To Tile A Bathroom Wall

Tiling your bathroom walls will not only increase the visual appeal of your space, but also provide an additional layer which helps protect against potential moisture damage, moist growth and also makes the bathroom a lot easier to clean up. So if you’re are looking to tile your bathroom, it’s recommended to get in touch with a skilled professional to ensure you get the best results. However, this guide will provide you with a good insight on how to get through the process smoothly and avoid costly errors. Let’s take a look!

lPrepare The Wall’s Surface

• Make sure that the surface is clean, smooth and dry.

• If there are any dips or holes, ensure to have them patched or sanded.

• Measure the area to be tiled and shape the backer board to fit, if a new wall surface is necessary.

• Cover the new surface area with adhesive to attach the back board to the surface.

lMix The Mortar

• Firstly determine the tile layout and make a layout tool

• Install the datum

• Follow the instructions of the adhesive package as the type you’re to use depends on the wall type.

• Create a consistent and smooth paste by mixing the adhesive with water.

lInstall The Tiles

• Using a notched trowel, spread the mortar.

• Put a thin layer at the back of each tile and press it against the surface.

• Create ridges using the notched side of the trowel.

• Clear out any excess adhesive on the tile’s surface as you continue.

• Put the spacers at the joints

• Remove the datum planks when ready to install the outer edge tiles.

lApply The Grout

• Put the grout over te tiles with a grout float

• Clean out excess grout with a damp sponge

• Seal the tiles once the grout is dried