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Do Bifold Doors Fold Back Flat?

Bifold doors, also referred to as folding doors, have grown to become a great alternative to the conventional sliding doors. It has become a necessity rather than a luxury for most home and property owners especially in the south east who are in need of more space and a memorable focal point. However, before installing the impressive bifold doors in your home’s doorways, it’s always a wise decision to learn more about bifold doors. In this article, we’ll let you whether or not bifold doors fold back flat.

Generally, bifold doors consists of 3 to 8 door panels, bifold slides and fold back against one another in such a way that they sit flat against one or both walls. However, this depends on how they’re designed, whether they’ve been designed to open either from the side or from the middle. They basically work on what’s popularly referred to as a concertina principle. This style fold principle works in a way that allows the door panels to smoothly fold back flat which totally opens up the room into an open plan masterpiece.

So now that you know that bifold doors fold back flat, you may also be curious to know whether they also open in or out. Depending on your specific requirements, bifold doors can actually open inwards and outwards independently. However, due to the fact that opening bifold doors can take up some essential space, several home and property owners do prefer installing their bifold doors in such a way that allows it to be opened outwards. What’s more? It’s also essential to take into account that opening bifold doors inwards have the potential to drip water onto internal flooring especially for the wet regions.

LNB or Low Noise Block simply refers to the feature present at the end of a satellite dish which is attached to the coaxial cables feeding the satellite receiver. There are varying types of LNB which all works in their own special way, however a general function they all provide is to serve as the satellite broadcast signal amplifier and oscillate the signal to a lower frequency band which can be contained by the coaxial cable without too much loss of the cable and the greater the frequency the better the cable resistance and the quicker you’ll lose signal as a result of the cable strength. It should, however, be noted that most LNBs (and not all), oscillate the signal down to the satellite intermediate frequency band ranging from 950Mhz to 2150Mhz.

With the availability of a wide range of LNB types, makes and models, picking the right one for your satellite is crucial as the wrong one may imply your satellite will not work. The most common LNB types are single LNBs and Quad LNBs. The major difference between all types is the amount of output possessed by each LNB. This is what allows extra satellite receivers to be added for additional TV points as well as the inclusion of satellite PVRs which features recordable, play, pause and rewind TV services. For example, a single LNB possesses just one LNB connection for a coaxial cable to be attached. This allows you to connect a standard satellite receiver such as Freesat box or Sky. There are also dual or twin LNB, quad LNB and octo LNB which allows for two (or one satellite PVR), four (two PVRs or one PVR and two standard satellite receivers) and eight separate satellite receivers (four PVRs or combination of both) respectively. There are many other LNB types you can choose from with varying features, so it all depends on your requirements.

It might be possible to fit electrics in your shed, depending on where it is and what it’s made of. You should get in touch with a qualified electrician to find out whether it’s possible. Never attempt to run electrical cable from your house to an outbuilding!

Ultimately the double glazing company you use is responsible for the quality of work and to ensure your windows are of an excellent standard. This is why it’s important to get a warranty and use a Fensa registered installer. If problems emerge within a couple of years then it’s likely the installation was of a poor standard.Contact the double glazing company and have the issue repaired or new windows replaced. This doesn’t matter if you received a discount of free windows as part of the deal. As long as you entered into a contract the company is obliged to restore the windows.

How To Remove Tile Floor

Removing old tile can be a very tricky process which require lots of skills and experience to get right, the first time. Here, you’ll learn the best approach to removing your old tile by yourself. During the removal process, be sure to incorporate the necessary tools while also protecting yourself by putting on the recommended safety requirements. These includes a floor scraper, paint scraper, dust mask, handheld chisel, safety glasses, drop sheet as well as leather gloves or top quality riggers.

Tile Removal Process

lBreak The First Tile

• Use a hammer to break the first tile (target the centre of the tile with the hammer).

• To protect yourself from the sharp edges of the broken tile, use a drop sheet to cover the surfaces.

lRemove The First Tile

• With a chisel, remove the broken tile that’s still bonded on the floor.

• Position the chisel on the grout line at the tile’s edge to remove the broken but glued tile.

lBreak Up The Remaining Tiles

• Break up several tiles at once and use the floor scrapper to remove it.

• Ensure that the bonding agent used is pliable to make the job a soft work. If the bonding agent is a bit more permanent in nature, then you might want to consider a dynamite to dislodge the flooring.

lRemove The Mortar

• Hit the mortar with a hammer on a 2 to 3 foot square section to remove it from the underlayment.

• Scrape off the mortar’s broken pieces using a floor scraper

• In the event whereby most of the mortar is not removed, your best bet would be to change the underlayment.

• Bonding agent (adhesive) removal is not the easiest of tasks. To make it a bit simpler, you can softening the adhesive with a heat gun before scraping with the help a wide putty knife.

Tile removal is not only a tedious task, but can also be harmful if adequate care is not taken. If you’re inexperienced or not well trained, we’d recommend you hire the services of a professional to avoid making mistakes and incurring extra costs.

With the ability of orangeries to create additional space in your home as well as altering the appearance of your property completely, it’s very likely you’ll require a planning permission to construct an orangery. However, with the lengthy and complicated application process, you might want to consider the few exemptions before getting started.

If you’re considering to build an home extension such as an orangery, the obvious first step would be to consider whether or not you’ll need planning permission. And while you tend to get carried away in the thought of adding new beautiful living space, you should never forget to take into account your area’s planning regulation as well as the planning process realities. However, the application process is not one of the most exciting activities any homeowner would like to pass through and even more so when they live in a conservation area or possess a listed property that can even make the process a lot more challenging.

It’s recommended that you consult your plans and ideas with a professional such as an architect, building design company or a chartered surveyor, but there are some options you can put into consideration if you want to avoid the applying for a planning permission.

If you’re sure about not wanting to apply for a planning permission, you’d have to check your area to identify the possible local planning implications and determine whether or not your home has permitted development right which allows for some building works that can be made without the need to apply for a planning permission. To do this, simply check the government’s planning portal to determine whether your project is covered by the permitted development rights or applying for a planning permission would be required. What’s more? You need to determine if your building is listed especially if you live in a period property. For listed building, it can be much more difficult to get a planning permission as you must comply with some very specific regulations.

Are you trying to choose the perfect air conditioning unit for your home or property? Or perhaps you’re simply trying to figure out if it could be the right climate control option for your house. Regardless of your purpose, determining the amount AC systems cost to run can play a key role in identifying what your best options really are.

Obtaining estimates for the amount your new air conditioning units will cost to run may not be on top of your priority list and even more so if you’re always busy trying to determine the installation price. However, it won’t be the wisest decision to procure a new air conditioning system you can’t afford to use.

There are a lot of factors that determines the cost of running an air conditioning system. However, to give a rough idea of how much it’ll cost to run your new AC system, here’s a cost guide for two of the most popular types of air conditioning - split and multi split units.

For a small room size with an air conditioning output of about 2.5 kW, the cost to run per hour is about £10. Meanwhile,a mid-sized room with an air conditioning output of about 3.5 kW, the cost to run per hour is about £14. And lastly, a large room size with an air conditioning output of about 5 kW, the cost to run per house will be about £20.

In the event whereby you’re eager to fit a new air conditioning system, your best bet for a more accurate quote will be to get in touch with an air conditioning technician who will go through your unique project as well as the price influencing factors to provide a unique price for your project as well as its running cost.

Wet rot simply refers to the decay of timber caused by high moisture levels. This natural decay occurs when the moisture content in timber is about 30 percent to 50 percent. This is opposing to dry rot which only occurs as a result of a lower moisture content of about 20 percent. Naturally, a fungus is attracted to very damp wood, which it feeds off and in turn, destroying it. There are a number of fungus types, however the most common type is Coniophora puteana (also referred to as cellar fungus). In general, wet rot is usually confined to a localised damp area and does not spread which makes it a lot less destructive when compared to dry rot. However, if left untreated or totally ignored, wet rot can be just as destructive as dry rot and can greatly reduce the structural strength of the timber thereby causing a major structural damage in the process. So, what causes wet rot? Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that wet rot would be non-existent without a damp area to grow and thrive as wet spores are attracted to wet timber with a high level of moisture content. This moisture can be as a result of a number of issues which includes defective plumbing, leaking gutters, leaking roof, broken pipes, leaking washing machine or a leaking shower tray or bath. When the moisture a timber is exposed to is excessive, this offer the perfect environment for the growth of wet rot as it enables fungal spores to germinate and grow. They use the wet timber as a food source and eat it away, leading to a weakened wood and a compromised structural integrity.