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When the summer season is drawing close, that’s when air conditioning systems come in handy and super useful as the weather starts to get increasingly warmer. However as crucial as air conditioners are especially during the warm months in the UK, if they are not given the necessary attention, they can trigger some complications which is definitely not what you’d pray for. When your air conditioning system is not properly maintained, it can lead to an annoying summertime cough that’s likely going to affect both you and your loved ones. When this happens, the good thing is you can actually resolve it with some simple tips. To resolve the issue, simply replace your air conditioning filter or make use of a humidifier.

So now that you know that an improper maintenance of your air conditioning system can make you cough, you’d probably be interested in knowing what you can do to resolve this issue. Now let’s take a closer look at the remedies.

✓ Clean and replace your air conditioning filter

Your AC system blows to keep your house cool and comfortable. Directly beneath the front panel is the fine-meshed filter which works mainly to catch dust so as to make the air free of any dust. Hence, proper cleaning of this filter is essential to maintain efficiency of the operation of the system and also to prevent any health issues. If you’re allergic to dust to this becomes even more unbearable when the filter is no longer functioning as it should. They can be cleaned, but after some time, they should also be replaced as prolonged usage can also affect their efficiency.

✓ Humidifier

These helps to inject moisture into the air. They’re very durable and can work for up to 5 to weeks without needing to be cleaned. To help prevent cough, there’s need for some moisture in the air.

An engineered wooden door is a door made out of multiple pieces of wood. This is opposed to solid wooden doors that are made out of one piece of wood.Engineered wooden doors are usually covered by veneer to make them look like they are made from one piece of wood. They tend to be sturdier and straighter than solid doors.

By now, every homeower should be fully aware of the dangers of asbestos due to the fact that it can be found in a wide range of building products from the roofs and walls and right down to the floor tiles. An exposure to asbestos especially when disturbed can be life threatening as it can lead to a plethora of health issues which includes lung cancer, mesothelioma, asbestosis and lots more.

Asbestos are more dangerous when damaged or disturbed, but if they’re found in a great shape and are left undisturbed, then asbestos containing materials poses little to no threats. This dangerous material can be found in a large variety of insulation. And when compared to batt insulation, loose-fill insulation can be highly dangerous when it’s not installed in the right way. When poorly done, several particles of the asbestos can be released inside the wall or around pipes. As a result, insulation becomes a big worry that most homeowers will face down the road.

Homes that were constructed before the 1980’s commonly features steam pipes, hot water pipes as well as furnace ducts insulated with asbestos containing materials. And this is primarily because there’s no other fire retardant, thermal as well as acoustic insulator like asbestos that’s as effective and affordable as it is. However to really know if your building’s insulation is made with asbestos containing materials, you can take the following steps:

✓ Find out when your house was built. If it was constructed or renovated before the 1980’s then it’s likely to contain some asbestos materials.

✓ Although this is not advisable, but if you plan on checking the insulation by yourself, you should ensure to put on protect equipment such as goggles, gloves, masks and a safety suit.

✓ Check for insulation available in the building. The asbestos containing insulation in both batt and loose-fill types are grey-coloured so this shouldn’t be too hard to spot.

✓ Examine the pipe coverings especially the blanket type and cardboard coverings.

How Much Does It Cost To Move A Gas Meter?

When your gas meter is not in the right location while completing your renovation works or extending your property, it can be a worrying experience.

As a homeowner, you’re not allowed by the law to move your gas meter by yourself - it’s a very dangerous task that’s too risky to undertake just by watching a Youtube video or reading a blog post. Moving of a gas meter can and should only be carried out by a qualified and licensed gas supplier. And this, ultimately, gives rise to the question - how much does it cost to move a gas meter? Before we provide an answer for that, let’s look at what moving of a gas meter entails.

First and foremost, moving of a gas meter typically involves switching off the gas source to your home or property. The pipeline about 2 metres away from your property would be cut into for safety reasons and diverted into another position. Furthermore, you can as well apply that your meter should be re-fitted and re-linked to the inner copper pipeline, but that’s if the inner copper pipeline happens to be within two metres of the new location of your gas meter.

The time involved in the completion of a gas meter re-location project depends largely on the complexity of the job as each project is unique. Typically, the standard timescale from preparation to the final stage of moving a gas meter will take between 4 to 8 weeks. Finally, how much will it cost to relocate your gas meter?

As there are no government funds to subsidize gas meter relocation costs, this can be a very expensive work to carry out. Generally, the price to move a gas meter of about 5m will start within the range of £640 to £670.

How To Lay Wall Tiles

Laying of wall tiles is a task that should be done with great caution, especially if you’re working on a tight budget. It is guided by its own unique set of rules which you do not dare to break if you wish to get it right the first time, and also to avoid incurring some additional costs. If you do not have a proper training or experience, laying of wall tiles is better left to a skilled professional for the best possible outcome. However, this guide will walk you through the various steps in the process to help improve your knowledge. Let’s get started!

lPrepare The Wall Surface

• Make sure the surface is clean, dry and smooth

• In wet areas, wall tiles should be fitted over a backer board

• If it’s a painted wall, ensure to sand the surface before installation.

lCreate The Layout

• Locate the centre of the wall

• Create an intersecting vertical and horizontal layout lines using a level

• Ensure to include spaces for grout joints when creating the layout.

lApply The Adhesive

• For wet areas, makes use of thin-set adhesive that’s cement-based.

• For dry areas, you can use pre-mixed mastic adhesive

• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to prepare the adhesive

• Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive (hold the trowel at about 45 degrees angle)

• Ensure not to cover the layout lines with the adhesive

lInstall The Tiles

• Follow the layout lines to install the wall tiles

• Place the full tiles firmly on the adhesive and twist slight and gently to make them fit.

• Use tile spacers to ensure constant gaps for grout joints.

lCut The Tiles

• After installation of the full tiles, there’ll most likely be a need to cut some tiles to fit.

• Cut the tiles with a wet saw or manual tile cutter

lGrout The Tile

• Ensure the adhesive is well dried and remove the tile spacers.

• Prepare the grout as instructed by the manufacturer.

• Use a rubber gloat to apply the grout.

• Remove the excess grout from the tile surfaces

• Wipe the tiles and joints gently using a grout sponge and clean water.

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

Are you about to do a small clean or clear out of your home or garden? Or perhaps you’re just interested in hiring a mini skip for other reasons. One thing you might just be worried about is the cost of hiring one. This is very common as there are tight controls over modern waste disposal methods and knowing the cost of a mini skip hire is definitely a step in the right direction. The small skips are best suited to domestic projects such as house or garden cleans or clearances where only a little waste is generated. And as such, knowing the sort of waste you need to be disposed, the mini skip can be very efficient and great value for money. They represent an affordable option to get rid of both waste and rubbish in or around the house. A mini skip can also be utilized as secondary skip for waste or rubbish that needs separate disposal from the other wastes like a plasterboard.

The mini skip hire cost can be very affordable depending on what you need to be disposed. Generally, with a well sorted waste, a mini bin can costs within the range of £150 to £200. Even more so with green waste as these are the most environmentally friendly waste or rubbish to dispose.

However, on the other hand, wastes that are harmful or hazardous to the environment like asbestos requires a special treatment and as such, are generally more expensive to have disposed. By going the extra mile to hire a professionally supplied mini skip, you can be rest assured that your waste will be properly taken care of and constitute no harm to both persons and the environment at large. To avoid spending much more than needed, try to figure out if your rubbish or waste is small enough for a mini skip before hire. Click here to learn more about skip prices.

Sewer is simply a set of pipes or drains that’s usually underground and whose primary function is to remove waste water as well as other waste materials. Generally, there are three main types of modern sewer systems and they include sanitary sewers ( also commonly referred to as foul sewers), storm sewers or surface water sewers as well as combined sewers. Now let’s take a look at each of the sewer types!

• Sanitary sewers or foul sewers. These are the sewer systems that are mainly incorporated to transport waste water and other waste matter from both homes and businesses to waste water treatment plants. Normally, they include pipes, manholes as well as pumping stations. Their function is, however, not only to carry waste water to treatment plants, but also to maintain the water quality as this is essential for public health. Here, gravity is commonly used to remove the waste water. However, in low lying areas, pumps can be incorporated especially when the waste water needs to reach an area that’s at a higher elevation
• Storm sewers or surface water sewers. The primary function of this sewer system is to carry rain water as well as melting snow ( unlike sanitary sewers that are designed to carry waste water) from the roofs and roads and then direct it straight into the streams, rivers and also other water bodies. These sewer systems can get clogged with leaves, litter and other debris which can ultimately lead to flooding.
• Combined sewer. As the name suggests, these sewers are combined. This implies that the make use of a single pipe to carry both waste water and storm runoff water to wastewater treatment plants. These aren’t very common anymore as the sewer can overflow especially when there’s a lot of rain which makes the system incapable to handling both the waste water and surface water.