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If you’re planning to build a small extension on your property, you’ll most likely want to know the length of time it’ll take to complete the home extension. Just like many other home improvement projects, it’s impossible to provide a specific number of day in which your project will be completed as the duration is based on a number of influencing factors. This includes the size of the development work as well as whether or not you plan to live in the house when the work is being done. In this article, we’re going to give you a breakdown of the processes that’s involved in building a small single storey extension alongside the duration for each so you can have an idea of how long your small extension project will take. Let’s take a look!

✓ A small single storey extension will normally take about 3 months to be completed.

✓ Site preparation is the first step in the process and it’ll take up to 2 weeks the dig out the footings and prepare foundations. Followed by a further 2 weeks to fit the damp course as well as any drains required around the extension.

✓ The 5th week is spent on working on the external walls and putting in place blockwork to deliver cavity wall insulation.

✓ The next 2 weeks will be spent on installing the roof structure as well as internal walls.

✓ Once done. The builders will make the structure weather proof and electricians or gas fitters will be on site to add power to the extension. This will be followed by internal walls’ plastering as well as breaking into your main house.

✓ After this, when the plaster is dry and decoration completed, units or furniture will then be installed.

How To Lay Block Paving

Do you wish to know how to install block paving? We’ve got you covered! Here, you’ll find a useful step by step guide that’ll provide you with all the necessary information to lay a wide range of block paving products available in the market today. You must, however, note that the installation of block paving can be a tricky affair and should not be attempted unless you have undergone a proper training or have a good experience in the field. If otherwise, we’d advise you to leave the task for a reliable block laying professional to guarantee the best results and also avoid making costly mistakes.

lDesign

• Draw up a design to perfectly suits your needs.

• Decide on the type of block as well as colour.

lExcavation

• Use a mini excavator or a JCB ( depending on the size of the job) to excavate the driveway.

• Identify and mark out the area to be excavated.

• Dug out the area until you reach a suitable level

• Ensure that the proposed finish level is 150mm underneath the damp proof course in any of the adjoining building’s brick.

lEdge Restraints

• Build a 100mm depth-thick concrete foundation with the help of a concrete mixer, 1 part cement and 6 parts ballast.

• Position the kerb unit on top of the level with a string line and spirit level.

• Use a trowel and rubber mallet to mortar the kerb unit to the foundation.

• Haunch the back of the kerb units in such a way that the concrete reach half way up the kerb’s rear.

lSubbase

• Put the crushed concrete in the edge restraints and ensure it’s at the desired level of 50mm.

• Use a vibrating plate to compact and level

lScreeding

• Apply a layer of sharp sand (to 50mm depth) and campact it using a vibrating plate.

• Apply second layer of sharp sand (to 20mm depth) on top of the first layer.

• Level the second layer to the correct falls.

lInstallation Of Paving

• Lay the block paving starting from the bottom of a slope.

• Ensure the blocks are placed at about 10mm to 15mm above the required finish level.

• Make sure the blocks used are between 3-5 packs as you proceed with your desired pattern. You may need to cut smaller block pieces to fill smaller gaps.

lFinishing Touches

• Clear out the area to ensure no debris is left on the blocks.

• Put kiln dried sand and brush across the whole of the area, ensuring the sands falls between the blocks’ joints.

• Compact the drive with the vibrating plate.

• Brush more kiln dried sand over the area and compact again

• Repeat the process until the joints are full of sand.

If you’re considering getting a solar thermal system, one of the first things that comes to mind is the possibility of the system functioning properly during the cold months. The short and simple answer to this question is yes, a solar thermal system works in the winter. However, the downside here is that it’ll be a lot less efficient when compared to how it operates during the warmer months or summer. As a result of this fact, you’ll likely need to rely more on your boiler, immersion heater or any other backup heating system during this period as your solar thermal system will fail to contribute as much as it does during the warmer months. So what exactly is the reason why solar thermal is less effective and less efficient in the winter period? Let’s have a look!

As you know, solar thermal system banks on the sun’s energy to heat the water for your home’s use. During the cold months or winter, the sunlight becomes a lot less available when compared to the warmer months, as a result, there’s less sunlight that’s available to be used for its solar energy. And even more so at the periods when the days are shorter or skies are clearly overcast.

Also having a great impact on a solar thermal system’s output is heavy snow. Flat plate collectors normally have the capacity to cope better during snowy conditions as the light that’s able to travel through the snow will heat up the absorber plate - thereby making the snow slide off more quickly. However, the case is contrary with evacuated tube collectors which possesses a form of vacuum insulation that’s crafted to minimize the loss of heat, meaning they can’t generate heat to melt and cause the snow to slide off in a similar way.

The simple answer to this question is yes. The Google Nest thermostats are built in such way that makes it compatible with most 24V systems including the older systems. The device is functional with all common types of fuel such as electricity,natural gas as well as oil. However, before purchase it is vital to determine if your thermostat is also compatible. What’s more? The Nest thermostats is also designed to be usable even without the existence of a C wire (common wire) in your home, although a new C wire installation may be required.

Furthermore, Nest Learning Thermostat is compatible with multiple central heating system such as combi boiler systems, air source and ground source heat pumps (heating only) as well as heat only boiler. Now let’s take a look at the Nest thermostat compatibility!

• The majority of the 24 V systems ( including older systems) are compatible with Google Nest thermostat. They can be incorporated with each and every common types of fuel such as oil, natural gas as well as electricity.

• Prior to the installation of Google Nest thermostat, you can make use of the Google Home or Nest app for proper guidance and to notify you if your system is compatible. It will also give you a bespoke thermostat wiring guide.

• To check the compatibility of your system, you can also check with the Google’s online compatibility checker before purchase.

How To Tile A Kitchen Wall

Tiling a kitchen wall can seem like an easy task until you get started. Errors made will forever be evident for everyone to see unless you’re prepared to spend some extra bucks. When done right, it can actually be a very satisfying project, but don’t even think about rushing into it. If you lack a proper training or experience, it’s advisable to leave the task to a skilled professional for the best results and to avoid extra costs. This guide is meant to give you a detailed insight into the process and help you avoid possible errors.

lPreparation

• Ensure you have the required amount of tiles, adhesive and grout.

• Take the tiles measurement and calculate in square metres.

• Determine the number of tiles to be used and add about 10% to the total number to cover for possible wastage.

• Check to surface to make sure its clean and dry.

lMark Out The Area To Be Tiled

• Mark out the width of the tiles with spacers using a baton of timber.

• Position a tile against the bottom-most point and draw a line.

• Put a baton along this line and follow this by a vertical line at the wall’s end.

lInstall The Tiles On The Kitchen Walls

• Apply an even layer of adhesive with a wall trowel on the kitchen’s wall surface.

• Place the first tile on the adhesive and apply small pressure, do this for the remaining tiles with similar pressure to ensure its levelled.

• Make use of tile spacers to get a uniform space in between.

• Leave the adhesive to harden before applying the grout.

lGrouting

• Remove the tile space and clear out excess adhesive

• Prepare the grout

• Make use of a grout float to apply the mixture into the joints.

• Let the grout dry up a bit before washing the surface off with a sponge and water.

A canopy is similar to an awning, but is typically bigger and freestanding. This makes them more versatile than awnings, as you can move them around to suit your needs. However, they’re not always as structurally robust as most awnings.

Due to the fact that wood pellet boilers are contingent on eco-friendliness and cost efficiency, they’re gradually growing in popularity amongst home or property owners. It offers a viable alternative to other types of boilers such as oil fired boilers, gas boilers or electric boilers partly due to government’s Renewable Heat Incentive scheme which makes it more affordable to operate when compared to traditional boiler systems. Although there are several kinds of boilers available in the market today, but as the name suggests,wood pellet boiler makes use of wood pellet as the heating source. So if you’re thinking about installing a wood pellet in your home or property, you’d probably be interested in knowing how much the home appliance would cost. In this article, we’ll give you a rough estimate of the cost to help you make informed decisions.

When purchasing a wood pellet boiler for your home, one of the first thing to consider apart from the cost is the is the storage space needed to keep the pellets, which is usually given in plastic sacks. However, if you don’t have the storage space, you’ll have to spend a certain amount of your budget so as to construct a storage room specifically for the boiler.

In general, a standard wood pellet boiler will cost within the range of £4000 to about £6000, although you’re most likely going to put the pellets into the boiler by yourself, which may actually prove to be inconvenient in the long run if you’re going to do it on a more frequent basis. However, there are more expensive versions which are able to feed themselves automatically. The cost of these versions are usually up to £10,000 upwards.