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A garden room extension, also referred to as Sunroom or Solarium, is basically a stand alone garden building that’s totally detached from the home. They are typically semi-glazed building that features a tiled roof rather than glass. What would have been good examples of garden rooms extensions include conservatories, orangeries as well as pool houses, however they are constructed with the help of different materials and features which ultimately makes them different to garden rooms.

Garden room extensions are built with the major purpose of adding extra functional living spaces for a wide range of room options such as a second living room, dining room, study space, home garden office or a rehearsal space - the options are numerous. In other words if you’re looking for an additional usable space within your home or property, a garden room extension can be designed to suit your needs. So whether you need comfy sofas for evening relaxations, a sturdy office desk for work or large dining room table for dinners with family and friends, a garden room extension can be all that you need to achieve to your living space goals or just to add more value to your property.

Garden rooms extension has multiple alternatives such as a conservatory, garage conversion, loft conversion, extension and garden rooms. However, it has some great benefits over its alternatives. These benefits include, being very cost effective, hassle free, can be built within 5 to 9 days, rarely requires planning permission, does not require building regulations approval, includes a full professional installation and management without any need for subcontractors, modern and unique as well as being very versatile. Overall, if you’re looking to create an additional space in your home without having to break the bank, then garden room extensions may be your best bet.

Slab paving is a great material to use to create a sturdy shed base.

Start by measuring out the area where your shed is going to be. This needs to be the size of your shed, plus about 10-20cm extra each way. Mark it out with string and pegs, make sure it’s square, and dig it down to about 6cm deep.

Then create a sand and cement mixture and put a layer down, followed by your paving slabs. Make sure you start in one corner and use a rubber mallet and spirit level to make sure they’re as level as possible. Leave this to set and you’re ready to use your shed base.

In the UK, more than 50 percent of the money paid for utility bills is aimed at heating and hot water costs as stated by the Energy Saving Trust. This also means that when you settle for an old or ageing boiler, you’ll have to unnecessarily incur high utility bill in order to heat your home and have hot water on demand. In this kind of situation, the most effective and practical solution is to fit a new gas boiler in your home. This will provide you several benefits such as improved efficiency and reliability as well as reduced operating costs.

However, the only drawback here is the fact that removing your old gas boiler and replacing it with a new gas boiler isn’t a 5 minute task. And as you would have expected, like many other home improvement project there’s always an element of disruption that you’ll have to put into consideration when fitting a new gas boiler system. Good news is, with a qualified and experienced heating companies, these disruptions can be kept at a minimum. So now let’s take a look at how long it’ll take to replace a gas boiler depending on the type.

✓ An existing combi boiler upgrade - Installation times may vary, but typically the removal of an existing combi boiler and installation of a new one will usually be completed in a day - about four to six hours.

✓ Converting a regular to a combi boiler - Due to the fact that these type of project is usually labour intensive, it’ll take longer to complete - about 2 days.

✓ First time installation of new boiler to a home. This will usually take about 3 or more days because new pipes and other tasks need to the installation will be carried out.

If you have a loft, then the next thing that’s crucial is a loft insulation. Asides from cutting down on your carbon footprint, when you’re able to install an effective loft insulation you can slash your heating bills by up to £250 per year. What’s more? Besides making your home more energy efficient, it can also increase the value of your property a great deal. So if you’re also considering the insulation of your loft, one of the few things that comes to mind is, what loft insulation is the best to incorporate? In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, this post is going to address this issue and put you on the right path.

In truth, there’s no way to say exactly which type of insulation is the best as all types usually have a different purpose as well as usage. The insulation you choose for your home’s loft is be based largely on the how you’re going to make use of the space as well as any unique challenges you might face given the shape of your home’s loft. Below are some types of insulation to give you a better idea:

• Blanket insulation. This is the most common type that comes in rolls of rock, glass or mineral fibre ( or foil-backed felt ). It normally the most affordable and also a good all-purpose insulation which is easy to fit although not suitable for the roof.
• Loose-fill insulation. This type of insulation features a loose, lightweight material such as cork granules, cellulose fibre, mineral wool etc. It can either be incorporated as a top up or on its own. The primary drawback is it isn’t very secure and can also be very messy.
• Sheet insulation. This is the best solution for the roof’s underside as it offers a highly effective insulation for your loft space and can also be decorated over. The drawback here is that it’s usually the most expensive type to purchase and install.

Cracks on your concrete driveway can look scruffy and unsightly. They can also lead to further damage, as moisture can get into the cracks and make them worse. So, it’s important to seal the cracks as soon as you can.

Start by cleaning the area and removing any loose materials. This will help any new materials you introduce to bond with your existing driveway. Then use concrete caulking or sealer to fill in the cracks. You’ll need to use a trowel to push the filler firmly into the crack.

Once you’ve filled in the crack, make sure you consult the product instructions and leave it for the amount of time specified before using your concrete driveway again.

Tar and gravel flat roofs are popular because the gravel weighs down the surface of the roof so it doesn’t blow away and it also protects it from sun damage. The tar makes the roof watertight, so you won’t get any leaks. However, sometimes problems occur and you’ll get cracks and leaks. So how do you repair a tar and gravel flat roof?

If you notice leaking coming through your flat roof, try to find the source of the leak. Since water can travel easily, it might not be where you think it is. The first place to check is the flashing, then any parts of the roof with gravel missing. Once you’ve found the crack, sweep away any remaining gravel and clean the area.

Apply a primer to the area and allow it to dry. Then, apply a tar and gravel roof patch that you can get from most DIY shops. Patch 2-3 inches around the damaged area, creating layers, and ensuring that there aren’t any air bubbles or gaps. Then you should cover the entire patch with gravel.

Before you try to repair a tar and gravel flat roof yourself, consider how much of the roof needs repairing. Professionals often say that if cracks and faults make up 25% or more of the roof, then you should look to replace it. It might be tempting to try and replace your tar and gravel roof yourself, but it’s best left to the specialists. They will ensure that your new roof is watertight and strong enough to withstand sun damage and storms.

How Much Does A Boiler Repair Cost?

An annual service for your boiler might not seem important and may be easy to postpone to another day, but when it happens to breakdown due to lack of adequate attention, this can be quite painful and also costly.

Before you start thinking about the cost of repairing your boiler, the first thing you’ll need to confirm is whether or not your boiler is still covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. You’d be amazed some warranties can last for as long as 12 years, if yours is still on then you can save yourself a huge amount of of money on your boiler repair. As a result, it’s always crucial to keep the details of your warranty somewhere safe, so you can read them from time to time. You never can tell when the rainy day will come!

Most boiler warranties will require your to get your boiler serviced on an annual basis by a licensed and qualified technician. The cost of an annual boiler service is affected by the time of the year you wish to get it done. When boilers are less useful during the summer months, an annual service is usually relatively cheap when compared to the cold months. Around this period, a boiler service will normally cost within the range of £100 to £150, however for a more accurate quote it’s advisable to contact a couple of professionals and compare their quotes.

The cost of getting a boiler repaired will be affected by a couple of factors including your boiler’s make, the age of the boiler as well as your location and how urgent you need it done. If you have a dead boiler, the cost will typically range from £96 to £348 and a boiler displaying a fault code will cost within the range of £90 to £275. Generally, repairing a boiler will cost within the range of £90 to £400 based on the several factors stated above.

Black mould, just like every other type of mould, is commonly present in dark and humid areas of homes and structures. Basically, it releases spores into the air which can be absorbed when you breathe in or through your skin. These spores are also able to get a ride on your body to other areas and gradually, spread throughout the home or house. Black mould is very different from other common household moulds, but it has a reputation for being toxic. In fact, a lot of individuals refer to black mould simply as toxic mould due to its reputation. When left untreated or totally ignored, black mould can result in serious health challenges and even more so for more vulnerable individuals. Respiratory issues are the most common health issues that arises as a result of black mould. You may start to cough, sneeze or even develop an itchy throat after a prolonged exposure to the toxic black mould spores. Vulnerable people or people at higher risk such as infants or an individual with respiratory challenges, could suffer long term health challenges. So, what are the signs of mould? Let’s take a look!

The most effective approach to reduce the risk of breathing in black mould spores is by eradicating it immediately you notice it. You may have a black mould issues if you notice:

• A musty smell. Luckily, mould has a unique and distinct smell which is often described as musty and earthy. It may even smell just like rotten vegetables or plants.
• Growth spots of different colours. Just like the name implies, black mould is often dark in colour. If you notice circular spots that are black, dark green or dark brown, then you probably have black mould in your house.
• Water damage spots. To detect black mould early on, simply look for water damage spots.