Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Berwickshire.

If used and maintained properly, air conditioning can actually be a great way to create a healthier environment. As well as controlling the temperature, it also filters your air, removing pollutants like dust, pollen and mould particles.

However, to maximise these benefits, it’s important to keep your system clean. Dirty units and systems can become a health hazard, so always make sure you service your air conditioning at least once or twice a year.

Most of the people out there do not know the difference between a carpenter and a joiner. This is a very common question that is asked by many as to whether there is an actual difference between the two.

Both joiners and carpenters have many shared traits. The definition seems to change throughout the UK. The southern parts use the term carpenter whereas the north seems to prefer the term joiner. Both of these trades involve working with wood mainly in the construction industry. Both of them are, however, are two very unique and separate trades. Both of them come under the broad term of ‘carpentry’ however their skills and specialisms differ.

A joiner is defined as a trained craftsman who is responsible for making or joining wood in a workshop. On the other hand, a carpenter is a professional that works on site with the timber. In summary, a joined creates the wood back at the workshop while the carpenter fixes them on site. A joiner, therefore, works on things that are done in a workshop using machinery while a carpenter is responsible for its assembly on site.

As both joiners and carpenters had learnt the basics of both trade while they were practising as an apprentice, several similar overlaps are bound to occur.

It is good practice to ask the company or the individual what trade they specialise in. As an example, a joiner may be able to make a particular item whereas a carpenter may be better doing the actual fitting.

It is evident from the above sections that carpentry and joinery are completely different and therefore, should be categorised under two different trades, however, there is indeed a lot in common in their extremely high skilled work.

Solar panels can be pretty expensive, so require an initial investment. However, a quality solar panel installation can be very financially beneficial, saving you money in the long run. It does this in two main ways.

Firstly, using electricity generated by your solar panels means that you have to use less power from the national grid. Once you’ve bought your solar panels, your solar electricity is essentially free, meaning that you’re saving money by using this instead of power supplied by your energy company. If you want to maximise these savings, invest in a solar battery so you can store unused solar electricity ready for when you need it.

You can also earn money with your commercial solar panels through the Smart Export Guarantee [https://solar-panels.quotatis.co.uk/smart-export-guarantee/]. This is a government scheme that says that all licenced energy suppliers with 150,000 customers or more have to offer a tariff to renewable energy generators. When you generate solar electricity but don’t use it immediately it gets fed back to the grid – the tariff pays you for every kWh of this.

At the moment there’s no minimum tariff that an energy company has to offer – it only has to be above zero. However, many energy companies are competing to offer the best deal, so you can definitely find a tariff that will pay you for all the unused solar electricity you generate.

This is definitely one of the questions that first comes to mind when considering to acquire a skip for either residential or commercial waste disposal purposes. The cost of a skip is dependent on so many factors but the most significant determinants would be the volume of the waste and type/size of the skip you require.

Once you are able to identify the most suitable skip size for the volume of waste or rubbish for disposal at your premises, estimating the cost would be a lot easier. Here, we’ll give you an insight into skip sizes and the amount of waste each skip type can hold at a go.

Skip Types

• Mini Skip

This is also referred to as a 4 yard skip which is the smallest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 40 and 45 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £90 to £130 for a week’s hire.

• Medium Skip

The 8 yard skip is the most common and has the capacity to hold within a range of 80 to 90 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £200 to £250 for a week’s hire.

• Large Skip

The 12 yard skip is the largest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 125 to 135 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £250 to £340 for a week’s hire outside London. However, it can be a little bit more expensive in the capital - about £350 to £390 for the same amount of time.

It must, however, be taken into account that the cost of a skip also depends on other factors such as your location, the skip hire company, the volume of waste and lots more. Click here to learn more about skip prices.

Also commonly referred to as drywall, plasterboard is an incredibly versatile product which features a sandwich of gypsum plaster between thick paper layers. It’s mainly used on both walls and ceilings due to the wide range of benefits it provides. Not only can plasterboard be made to be humidity resistant, fire resistant as well as noise resistant, but they’re also known to have a low environment impact, easy to repair and can be used to conceal stuff from plain sight. As a result of these benefits couple with the fact that they also happen to be quite affordable, plasterboard has grown to become a ubiquitous phenomenon in modern residential buildings.

When it comes to the installation of plasterboard on ceilings, one of the major sources of concern for several homeowners is the determination of the thickness required to ensure a durable and long-lasting project. If you’re planning to fit plasterboard on your ceiling and wondering the thickness that’ll be appropriate, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight on what plasterboard to use for ceilings. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, the standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much-needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths. Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

There is a variety of methods available to ensure that your paving drains properly, for example draining into a lawn or soakaway. Correct drainage of paving is a requirement for planning permission. See our guide on planning permission for paving for more information.

When people think about heat pumps, they’ll automatically have the believe that a swimming pool will require a big heat pump. Since the swimming pool has a large volume of water, then warming such a volume will require a large ground source heat pump because that volume is much larger than the normal domestic hot water tank, right? Well, that point of reasoning does seem logical especially with the information almost everywhere that ground source heat pumps are usually less efficient when it comes to heating hot water for home’s use. However, the fact is there are also some things to put into consideration that also works in favour of the ground source heat pump.

First and foremost, you should know your domestic hot water will typically be heated to a much higher temperature when compared to your swimming pool. Since you wouldn’t be using the water to disinfect your bathroom or doing your dishes in your swimming pool, then the temperature can be much lower. In fact, it’s much more comfortable and enjoyable to heat to a typical “swimming pool temperature than having it at a hot bath temperature. If you’ve ever wandered into a really hot swimming pool, you wouldn’t need any introduction to the painful discomfort that comes next.

As a result of this low temperature, your “tiny heat pump can operate a in a more efficient way which makes the use of ground source heat pumps a viable swimming pool heating option. What’s more? The ground source heat pump works for a swimming pool just like any any other application - moving the heat from the region of a warmer temperature to the cooler temperature region.

How To Apply For A Septic Tank Permit

There are some binding rules that must be followed if you’re the operator of a septic tank system or small sewage treatment plant. This binding rules include the following:

✓ The sewage must be domestic in nature. For instance the scum, sludge and waster water should come from the shower, toilet, kitchen, laundry room etc. If you’re not sure if your septic tank is domestic in nature in nature you can contact the Environment Agency.

✓ The sewage must not lead to pollution

There are also some binding rules whether you release to the ground such as your backyard garden or to a surface water like a stream or river.

In the event whereby you do not meet the general binding rules, you’ll need to apply for a septic tank permit. Here, the form you’ll have to fill will depend on where you discharge your sewage and how much sewage you discharge.

If you discharge your sewage to the ground there are different forms depending on whether you’re in a groundwater protection zone (SPZ1). Outside an SPZ1, there are different forms if you discharge between 2 and 15 cubic metres in a day and if its over 15 cubic metres per day. While inside an SPZ1, if you discharge less than 2 cubic metres per day you’ll fill different forms for systems in use before 1st January, 2015 and systems installed on or after that date.

If you want to discharge between 5 and 20 cubic metres sewage per day to a surface water, you can apply for a standard rules permit. If you can’t get a standard rules permit, you’ll need a permit to discharge up to 20 cubic metres per day and over 20 cubic metres per day.