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Kitchen floor tiles are a very popular choice for several reasons. They’re durable, visually appealing, resistant to moisture and stain and also relatively easy to maintain and install especially when compare to wall tiles. This is a task that can be done by any competent DIYer but requires a lot of patience as well as confidence. If you lack these attributes, then we’d recommend that you hire a professional floor tiler who can guarantee the best results the first time. In this article we’ll take you through the kitchen floor tiling process. Let’s get started!

• Prepare The Subfloor

✓ Ensure the subfloor is very secure to support both the tile and the people working across it.

✓ If necessary, you can strengthen the kitchen floor with the help of a vinyl, heavy felt or any other good backer board.

✓ After successfully securing the floor, proceed to clear out all dust and dirt.

• Mix The Mortar

✓ Mix a thinset mortar be referring to the instructions on the package. ( Mix only the quantity you can apply within 30 minutes).

✓ Once the mixture looks similar to the thickness of mayonnaise, allow it to rest for about 10 minutes before application.

• Apply The Mortar

✓ Apply a thin layer of mortar

✓ Do not cover extensive areas as the mortar can become very dry.

✓ Spread the mortar with a trowel in curved patterns to make it flat on the floor.

• Set The Tile

✓ Set down the tile slowly, apply a little pressure until its holds firmly to the surface. ( Apply a consistent amount of pressure throughout to ensure equal heights for all the tiles)

✓ Continue with the process until all full tiles are well positioned

• Cut The Tiles

✓ Once all the full tile pieces are in place, start cutting to cover the edges requiring smaller tile pieces.

✓ Take accurate measurements of the outer edges needing smaller tile pieces.

✓ Cut the tile pieces to fit the measurement taken with the help of a wet saw or hand tile cutter.

• Grouting

✓ Remove all spacers and mortar residues and lay the grout

✓ Apply the grout along the tiles’ seams with a grout float

✓ Clean out excess grout with a damp sponge after leaving it to dry for about 30 minutes

✓ Once the grout is fully dried, apply the sealer (the drying process normally takes within 3 to 4 days).

How Much To Tile A Bathroom?

Are you thinking about doing a full renovation or just a facelift of one of the most used rooms in your home - the bathroom? Thanks to its little maintenance requirements, tiling is the most obvious choice for wet areas as well as the popular decoration option for bathrooms. So if you’re planning to tile your bathroom how much is it going to cost?

Just like several other home improvement options, the cost of tiling a bathroom is influenced by a wide range of factors which makes it almost impossible to provide a single, accurate answer to the question. These factors include the size of your bathroom, the materials to be used, the professional tiling company hired and many more.

To calculate the cost of your bathroom tiling, you’ll need to determine the size of the area to be tiled. Simply work out the number of tiles you’ll need by multiplying the width and height and include about 10 percent to cover for possible errors. Generally, tiles can cost from £5 to £20 and more depending on your choice of design. Other materials you’ll have to purchase include tile adhesive, grout and silicone. If you don’t have the necessary tools make sure to get a tile cutter, measuring tape as well as a mixing bucket.

If you want to hire a professional for your bathroom tiling project, you should also consider any work that’ll need to be done before fitting the tiles such as the removal of the old tiles. This can have a great impact on the labour cost, so if you’re intending to save some money you can start by removing the old tiles yourself. Overall, depending on your location and the tiler’s experience can expect to incur about £20 to £40 per square metre. However, some tradesmen can charge a daily rate of about £150 to £200.

Cladding comes in a range of styles, such as flush, shiplap, and featheredge. Many types of cladding are also available in a variety of colours to suit any property. A cladding specialist will be able to discuss what solution is best for your property and how it works.

How To Apply For A Septic Tank Permit

There are some binding rules that must be followed if you’re the operator of a septic tank system or small sewage treatment plant. This binding rules include the following:

✓ The sewage must be domestic in nature. For instance the scum, sludge and waster water should come from the shower, toilet, kitchen, laundry room etc. If you’re not sure if your septic tank is domestic in nature in nature you can contact the Environment Agency.

✓ The sewage must not lead to pollution

There are also some binding rules whether you release to the ground such as your backyard garden or to a surface water like a stream or river.

In the event whereby you do not meet the general binding rules, you’ll need to apply for a septic tank permit. Here, the form you’ll have to fill will depend on where you discharge your sewage and how much sewage you discharge.

If you discharge your sewage to the ground there are different forms depending on whether you’re in a groundwater protection zone (SPZ1). Outside an SPZ1, there are different forms if you discharge between 2 and 15 cubic metres in a day and if its over 15 cubic metres per day. While inside an SPZ1, if you discharge less than 2 cubic metres per day you’ll fill different forms for systems in use before 1st January, 2015 and systems installed on or after that date.

If you want to discharge between 5 and 20 cubic metres sewage per day to a surface water, you can apply for a standard rules permit. If you can’t get a standard rules permit, you’ll need a permit to discharge up to 20 cubic metres per day and over 20 cubic metres per day.

Also referred to as drywall, plasterboard is a panel that features an inner layer of gypsum and spread between facer as well as backer paper. It is mostly incorporated in the construction of both interior walls and ceilings. Plasterboard can be made to be humidity resistant, fire resistant as well as noise resistant. Due to these reasons and also the fact that it’s very easy to install and very affordable, plasterboard is a very popular choice when it comes to interior walls and ceilings.

One of the major issues that most homeowners face when fitting plasterboard is the thickness required to make the project a long lasting one. But not to worry, we got you covered! If you’re about to install plasterboard for your ceiling and wondering the thickness that’ll be appropriate, then you’ve come to the right place. In general, the standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths.

Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

Plasterboards are a great noise insulators which can also reduce disturbances from other activities. As a result, for walls, size of plasterboards that’s considered appropriate for walls is 12.5 mm or 13 mm.

We all know how helpful air conditioning systems can be especially during the hot summer season which is great at making your home feel nothing less than an inferno. So if you have an AC system, you’d probably want to know if leaving it on will be cheaper and more efficient.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, leaving your air conditioning system on will make make it cheaper and more efficient. This isn’t what you or many other people will have in mind though. Under no circumstances should you leave you air conditioning system on full blast 24/7. To make your air conditioning system more efficient by leaving it on has a right and wrong way you can go about it. Let’s have a look!

If you’d ever noticed, any time you turn your air conditioner off during a very a hot day, even if it’s for just a couple of hours, things tend to get thrown out of balance pretty quickly. When turned back on, your AC system will have to work even harder to restore the usual comfort levels in the room. When you abuse this dial in such a fashion, the AC system can only become more inefficient rather than making your home more comfortable quickly.

On the other hand, your AC system ( when tuned to the right settings) can help maintain the proper temperature and humidity balance within your home instead of turning it off while away. And upon getting back, you can simply turn down the thermostat a bit which helps you prevent the usual stagnant air that you’d be hit with when your return home (with the AC system turned off) that’ll have you racing for the dial.

Do you have a composite door and wondering the best type of lock that can be used on your prized asset. To choose the right type of lock for a composite door, it’s of utmost importance to select one that’s designed to work perfectly with the composite configuration. By doing this, you’ll improve the security of your home while also achieving the desired look. To secure a composite door, the most common way is by incorporating a high security multipoint lock. Therefore, depending on the look you want for your door as well as how you want it to function, here are the four types of locks you can consider to go with your composite door.

• Split Spindle Lock

A split spindle lock would be your best bet if you’d like to automatically prevent access to your home from the outside. This lock allows you to open your door smoothly by utilizing the inside handle, however, you’ll need a key to turn the latch bolt to gain access back inside.

• Lever or Lever Lock

If you want an unhindered access in and out of your property, a lever lock gives you this opportunity without the need for a key until it’s totally deadlocked. The lever lock is installed to the back door which makes unauthorized entry even less likely.

• Slam Lock

If you’d prefer a super fast locking, then this lock type is your answer! It automatically triggers the lock hooks immediately you close the door - without having to lift the handle. However, to gain access to the inside of your home or bolt the door from the inside, you’ll need a key.

• Key Wind-Up Lock

This lock is wholly key operated and totally handle-free. Immediately the door is closed, the latch bolt will be automatically activated, ensuring that a key would be needed to gain access back inside.