Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Maybole.

Having your very own customized wardrobe fitted is an amazing prospect. However, when considering made to measure fitted wardrobe, one thing that most often puts off several home and property owners is the believe that opting for a bespoke solution might prove to be too expensive. In reality, getting fitted wardrobes as well as sliding wardrobe doors shouldn’t exceed the budget especially when you’re prepared for any of the associated costs. In this guide, we aim to provide you with a good insight into the world of fitted wardrobe pricing to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

If you’ve long considered investing in a new fitted wardrobe or perhaps this is your first time venturing into the premium wardrobe furniture world, there’s a high chance you’d probably want to the cost of fitted wardrobes so you can set a budget and begin to plan. Well, just like many other home improvement projects, this question does not have a straightforward answer. The price will always vary mainly due to the fact that fitted wardrobes have a highly customized nature as well as the option to either install it yourself or have a professional team to install it for you. There are some companies that’ll give you a fixed and non-negotiable price, however there are also other suppliers with prices ranging from £1500 for standard wood finish wardrobes to about £5000 or more for premium finishes. Do note that these prices do not include the cost of added extras which implies that you’re likely to incur more expenses for interiors and additional features you’re going to need.

Fitting a shower tray may seem look like a daunting task and well, to some extent, you’re perfectly right if you feel so. This is why shower tray installation is best left to a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results the first time especially if you lack the confidence required to pull off the task. If you wish to make this project a DIY task, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take you through the adjustable shower tray fitting process to ensure you get it right the first time. Let’s take a look!

1. Position the shower tray at the spot where you intend to have it fitting and outline the tray with the help of a pencil. Install the adjustable riser legs, then proceed to adjust them to an even height. Make use of a spirit level to make sure the tray is flat and level, then connect the tray’s waste outlet.
2. Make sure that the riser legs are properly adjusted as this will make for a smooth fall to pass out the waste. Usually, 50mm fall per metre of pipework will be a good guide. Once done, ensure to fit the centre leg.
3. Determine the appropriate route to the waste pipe from the waste trap inside the tray.
4. Put the tray. Make use of a spirit level to ensure the tray is level to eliminate drainage issues and avoid overflow.
5. Examine the riser legs to see that they’re engaged with tightened up lock nuts.
6. Cover the gaps around the shower tray’s surroundings using the side panel.
7. Use a sealant to secure the shower tray between the wall and the tray.
8. Fix the side panels to the shower tray to conceal the pipework from view.

When it comes to getting an air conditioning unit for your property, one of the greatest mistakes you can possibly make is purchasing and installing the wrong type as well as size in your personal space. In the event whereby you happen to go for an AC unit that’s too small, it won’t be powerful enough to cool your room as you would like. However, when you go ahead to select an oversized AC unit, your room would be cooled relatively quick but will leave the air in your room with excess humidity and consume more electricity as it’s going to cycle on and off which will ultimately cost you more money. As a result, it’s always a smart move to put some things into consideration before making any financial commitment. In this post, we’re going to consider how you can determine the perfect air conditioner for your building. Let’s take a look!

• Determine the appropriate size for your space. When buying a new air conditioner, one mistake you should never make is getting the wrong size. A unit that’s too small will have to work overtime to achieve the set temperature for the room and driving up your energy bills, while a unit that’s too large will cool the air pretty easily and quickly but leave it damp and clammy. To get the appropriate size, you’ll have to take the measurement of the room’s square footage using a tape measure, calculate the room’s square footage and determine the cooling capacity required for the room in question which is measured in British Terminal Units (BTUs)/hour.
• Look out for the ENERGY STAR® certification. It’s crucial to buy and install an air conditioning system with the blue ENERGY STAR® certification. This means that the unit has met or exceeded certain higher efficiency standards than other similar models.

If you have a loft, then the next thing that’s crucial is a loft insulation. Asides from cutting down on your carbon footprint, when you’re able to install an effective loft insulation you can slash your heating bills by up to £250 per year. What’s more? Besides making your home more energy efficient, it can also increase the value of your property a great deal. So if you’re also considering the insulation of your loft, one of the few things that comes to mind is, what loft insulation is the best to incorporate? In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, this post is going to address this issue and put you on the right path.

In truth, there’s no way to say exactly which type of insulation is the best as all types usually have a different purpose as well as usage. The insulation you choose for your home’s loft is be based largely on the how you’re going to make use of the space as well as any unique challenges you might face given the shape of your home’s loft. Below are some types of insulation to give you a better idea:

• Blanket insulation. This is the most common type that comes in rolls of rock, glass or mineral fibre ( or foil-backed felt ). It normally the most affordable and also a good all-purpose insulation which is easy to fit although not suitable for the roof.
• Loose-fill insulation. This type of insulation features a loose, lightweight material such as cork granules, cellulose fibre, mineral wool etc. It can either be incorporated as a top up or on its own. The primary drawback is it isn’t very secure and can also be very messy.
• Sheet insulation. This is the best solution for the roof’s underside as it offers a highly effective insulation for your loft space and can also be decorated over. The drawback here is that it’s usually the most expensive type to purchase and install.

1. Prepare the sub-baseThe driveway company will excavate, or dig, the existing surface down to a depth of around 200mm. They will remove any debris from the area may place it in a skip or arrange for it to be removed in another way. When they dig down to the sub-base of your previous driveway, they will assess how much hardcore they need and arrange for that to be delivered to the site. They will then spread the hardcore across the sub-base to create a level surface to pour the concrete on. Most good contractors will apply a gel to any walls and doors to protect them from concrete splashes. They will also add any gulley tops, manhole covers or shuttering that’s required.
2. Installation and imprintingNext, the tradespeople will have the concrete either poured from a large mixer vehicle or barrow it in from a mixer and pour onto the surface. They level it with rakes, then add a colour surface hardener in a colour of your choice. This will give the driveway its permanent colour. They will then wait until the concrete has hardened to the correct consistency for imprinting the pattern, then will use special tools and stencils to make the pattern that you asked for. They will then spread a colour powder called a release agent over the surface, and leave to dry for 1 to 2 days depending on the weather conditions.
3. CleaningWhen the contractors return, they will add crack control cuts into the concrete. This is important because concrete expands and contracts in the heat, so there needs to be some give to stop any larger cracks from forming. Then everything is power washed clean, and a chemical wash is also used on the concrete to ensure it’s completely dust-free. The installers will ensure all your walls and doors are clean, which will hopefully be an easy job if they used wall gel.
4. SealingThe final step is to seal the driveway. There needs to have been at least two dry days before the tradespeople can do it, so you might find it’s best to have your pattern imprinted driveway installed in the summer. The contractors will blow any debris away from the surface and dry any damp areas where necessary. They will then add an anti-slip agent to the sealant and brush it on. It’s best to not walk or drive onto your new concrete driveway for about 4 days after sealing to allow everything to set. But after that, you’re ready to use your new driveway!

If you’re thinking of getting a new carpet, one of the most likely issues you’re going to face is how to identify the types of carpet as there are a plethora of options in the market today. Being able to identify types of carpet can go a long way to make sure you get the most suitable type for your home without having to pay a professional. In this post, we’re going to consider the types of carpets and how you can identify them with ease. Let’s take a look!

When it comes of carpet construction, there are two main types which are defined by how their fibres are attached to their backings. These includes:

1. Loop pile. These are carpets which the fibres are bent into the small loops. They’re known to be very durable and stain resistant, however they also have a low profile as well as a limited cushioning. The loop pile style encapsulates the following:
2. Level loop ( also referred to as Berber). This carpet type features short loops which stand up well in traffic areas.
3. Multi level loop. This implies that the tops of the loops are different in height so as to give the carpet a patterned texture.
4. Cut pile. These are carpet types that cut the yarn tips to ensure there isn’t any loops. They tend to be denser and softer when compared to loop pile. The types of cut pile includes plush, saxony, textured cut pile, frieze carpet and cable.

On the other hand, carpets are made from different synthetic and natural fibres with varying characteristics. These includes nylon (the most popular as its durable and, wear and stain resistant), olefin ( resistant to moisture, mildew and mold), acrylic (a cheaper alternative to wool) and wool (the premier carpeting option and the only natural fibre used in manufacturing carpets).

If you want to install an external wall, it is only wise to consider whether or not a planning permission is required in order to avoid a hefty fine. In a great kudos to the government and a welcome relief to home and property owners, the installation of external wall insulation is seen as an “improvement to the house and not an “extension or an “enlargement. Ultimately, this implies that external wall insulation fitting is to be done under permitted development and a planning application may not be required. However, like many other regulations, there are also exceptions to this rule and the main one is if the activity changes the appearance of your property. Properties such as a listed building having tighter regulations may pose some issues. As a result, we’d advise you to consult your local authority to ensure that there’s no fast rule to this topic before commencement of the external wall insulation project.

At the moment, according to the Government Building Regulations, the surface of the entire wall is to be improved to existing standards if the area to be insulated exceeds 25 percent of the wall. In normal situations this is usually the typical case, however to prevent avoidable fines and other possible punishments, it is always best to reach to your local authority and check out the rules guiding external wall insulation in your constituency. Furthermore, since external wall insulation is not a task that’s recommended to be done by yourself, you can also ask the professional external wall insulation fitting company for the applying rules before proceeding. As a good professional, the company should have a better knowledge of the rules and regulation guiding its activities.

The fact is several buildings contain artex as well as other textured coating on walls and ceilings which are all likely to contain asbestos. However, artex itself is not the main threat here but the potentially deadly harmful fibres that’s contained in it. In this post, we’re going to look at whether or not artex truly contains the deadly abestos.

The short and simply answer to this question is yes, artex can definitely contain asbestos, however not all artex will contain asbestos. The main reason asbestos was a popular construction material is because it was not only cheap and strong but also because it was very durable and long lasting. It was used in numerous construction materials ( which includes artex ) before it was finally banned in the year 1999. unfortunately during the time when artex was very popular in the 60’s, 70’s as well as 80’s, asbestos was still very much in use during the period. And as a result, a lot of the artex incorporated during that period will contain the deadly asbestos fibres. However, this does not only apply to artex, but also other textured coatings containing asbestos were incorporated in construction until 1999 when asbestos was formerly banned in the UK. These asbestos containing materials are often used on walls as well as ceilings of residential properties.

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to know an asbestos containing artex just by looking at it. In order to determine whether or not an artex contains the deadly asbestos fibres, it’ll have to be sampled and tested in a laboratory. What’s more? While several artex contains asbestos, asbestos free artex was available from the 1970s. However, since it’s impossible to determine using the naked eye, all artex installed before the ban will be assumed to contain asbestos.