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A pest control professional will always make sure that the treatment they apply is safe for people, pets and the surrounding environment. However, in rare cases and with serious pest infestations, you may need to leave your home for a short period of time.

Adding a lean to conservatory to your home or property comes with a whole lot of benefits. It provides you with the much needed additional living space within your property, add value to your home and creates a link between your home and garden. As advantageous as it is, one of the major concerns several homeowners have is whether or not is requires a planning permission. This is a crucial question that must be answered before you make financial commitment to the project. If you don’t know what you’re doing the entire process can be very tedious and you definitely do not want to go through the stress of completing your remarkable new conservatory, only to be instructed to have it removed again. In this post, we’re going to consider if obtaining a planning permission is required before adding a lean to conservatory to your property.

Generally, adding a lean to conservatory to a property is considered to be a “Permitted Development, which implies that you won’t have to apply for a planning permission to complete the project without any risk of interruption from the appropriate authorities. However, there certain circumstance that’ll require a planning permission. These circumstances include:

• If the conservatory covers more than 50 percent of the land around the main house.
• If the conservatory will be placed on the side of the house that faces the road.
• If the conservatory will be higher than the highest point of the main building’s roof.
• If the main building is lower than the height of the eaves and ridge.
• If the conservatory will be constructed to the side of the house and more than a single storey or it goes higher than 4 metres.
• If the conservatory will be wider than the width of the main building, if it’s to be built beside it.
• If the conservatory will be constructed at the rear and higher than 4 metres.

Generally, extensions can be a very tricky undertaking - where it can be quite difficult to have a clear comprehension of the rules, regulations as well as costs. Therefore before you rush in to kick start your ground floor extension project, it’ll be wise to get a good grip on the cost. In this article, we’re going to give you a rough estimate of the cost of a ground floor extension. Let’s take a look!

Just like several other home improvement projects, the cost of constructing a ground floor extension is based on a number of things which includes the size, materials used, your location, the quality of the tradesmen or company hired and lots more. For instance, if you happen to reside in London, the cost of your ground floor extension is going to be a lot higher than the other regions.

The single cost of a ground floor extension should fall within the range of £1,500 per square metre to about £2,000 per square metre. However, if you happen to live in London or the South East, this price can reach up to £1,900 per square metre to about £2,400 per square metre. These prices are for good quality ground floor extensions only. Basic or low quality extensions would naturally cost less while superior quality extension will cost more.

Now looking at the size of the ground floor extension, if you’re looking for a size of about 5m x 5m, you can expect to pay a price within the range of £32,000 to about £36,000. And as usual, in London or the South East, this price can reach up to £50,000 or even more. And that’s just for constructing the extension. If the other relevant costs like the 10 percent to 15 percent professional fees for the architect, planning application (if needed), building regulations and more, the price goes up.

The ability to identify exactly what an asbestos looks like can possibly save you from deadly health conditions that can arise as a result of a prolonged exposure to the dangerous material. It is one of the most frequent questions asked by homeowners in the UK and for a good reason. However, this question is not as simple or straightforward as it sounds because asbestos can actually take on a number of forms. As a result, this makes it a lot difficult to identify asbestos just by visual analysis or comparing an area which you suspect to be an asbestos to an example online. Therefore, the best way to truly identify if the area you suspect is really asbestos, then you’d have to send away a sample of the material to a certified asbestos testing lab in a safe way.

This happens to be the most effective way to verify if there’s a presence of asbestos in your home or property. Legally speaking, commercial properties are necessitated to undergo a total asbestos audit which involves carrying out lab tests on each and every material that’s suspected to include the deadly asbestos fibre substance. From these tests, you’ll get to know whether the asbestos present are friable or non friable which can go a long way to help identify the level of risk that’s posed by various building materials.

Upon the reception of the suspected asbestos-contained material, a certified asbestos testing laboratory will incorporate a form of transmission electron microscopy to reveal as well as determine the type of asbestos fibres that are in the sample. In the event whereby you discover a material you suspect to be an asbestos in your home, do not just go ahead to remove it. It’s strongly recommended to call in a specialist who can help to safely remove and send the suspected material to the lab for verification before further actions would be taken.

Most domestic solar thermal panels do not need planning permission and are covered by permitted development rights. There are restrictions on the size and location of these systems. If you live in a conservation area or listed building, or want to install a very large solar thermal system, check with your local authority to see if you will need planning permission.

A gutter is part of the system that takes rainwater away from a building. Every home will have some form of guttering system to stop water from dripping off the roof and into the walls. It’s important to keep your gutters clear because if water starts to seep into your home’s walls, you’re likely to get damp.

A guttering system consists of half pipes, troughs, bends and downpipes. They’re usually cylindrical in shape but they may be square on some homes and in countries outside of the UK. Technically, the gutter is the part that you’ll see across your roof that collects rainwater. The water will then feed into a downpipe from your roof’s edge to the base of your home, where you can collect it in something like a water butt, or it will be discharged to a surface water drain or soakaway.

In early times, gutters used to be made from lined wood or stone. Lead was often used as the liner to stop rainwater from seeping through the material, but you won’t see it used much anymore. These days, most homes have uPVC guttering as it’s a hardwearing plastic that should last a long time. But you’ll also see gutters made from aluminium, cast iron and copper, especially on period homes or those in a conservation area.

Every home needs a guttering system to ensure that rainwater doesn’t affect the foundations of the property. It’s also important to keep the gutters clear of debris like fallen leaves, as this will cause them to overflow, potentially causing water to soak into the walls and causing damp.

The most serious form of fungal decay is dry rot which occurs when the moisture levels of a timber is about 20 percent. It targets timber in buildings and feeds off the part of the wood which gives it its strength.it is able to produce moisture through the digestion of timber and as a result, does not require any source of moisture to spread. Once the dry rot is able to spread, it can severely impact and compromise the structural integrity of the house or building. If you think you may have dry rot on your building, the best solution would be to call on a professional to conduct a survey of your premises and have it treated as soon as possible if positive. If the dry rot is not identified and treated as soon as possible, you may have to remove and replace all the affected timber later on. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of treating dry rot by yourself. Let’s take a look!

• The initial treatment stage of dry rot is to identify the moisture source and have it repaired. Once done, you’ll have to ascertain the full extent of the dry rot outbreak. To achieve this, simply open up the affected area by removing the plaster and render in all directions while also removing flooring and lifting floorboards. Once done, you should be in the best position to determine the full extent of the infected timbers.
• Proceed to cutback the timbers in-situ to a minimum of 500mm beyond the last signs of fungal growth or the strands of hyphae.
• Remove all fruiting bodies and detectible spores. Clean the wall areas to eradicate surface growth using a stiff brush if necessary.
• Replace the timber with pre-treated timber.
• Treat the new and old timber with a dual purpose dry rot treatment fluid and sterilise the masonry.