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An eave is the edge of a roof, which is why they are now and then called roof eaves. On a household's outside, eaves can stick out outside the side of the building, serving both ornamental and applied purposes. The eave of a house has come to mean the lower area of the roof that projects after the external covering, as opposite to a cornice, which is part of the entablature in Classical architecture.

Think of how a roof outspreads outside the covering, and then think about how a hard rain may roll down the roof and, on the ground, away from the structure. Centuries ago, the eavesdrop was that indentation line made around a structure when the rain fell off the edge of the roof onto the ground.

Types of Eaves

A roof can come to a conclusion in essentially three ways. A closed eave is the one which has very little or no overhang at all. An open eave has a visible overhang, projecting beyond the roof brackets. A boxed eave is surrounded with a soffit.

The Use of Eaves?

An eave can defend the siding and substance of a structure. A roof eave bulging beyond the sides permits snow and rain to fall from the roof away from the covering, to the ground. The more the "weather" gets thrown away from the household, the chances of you having a dry basement increases.

In cases of regions with a warmer climate, a large eave can help provide shade to the interior of the house. In rainy environments, the prolonged eaves of Asian architecture deliver shelter from the climate, as well as direction. In the 21st century, an eave may be an inconspicuous site for security cameras and light.

These days, buyers expect homes to have double glazing. People recognise the benefits of installing double glazing, so if you don’t have it installed you should consider it. You’ll increase your property’s value and give it a better chance of selling faster, since single glazed properties are also more likely to have problems with damp and mould which could put buyers off.

Typically, loft conversions do not require planning permission except in certain situations. They’re usually covered under what’s known as Permitted Development. Certain building works like loft conversion, rear extension and conservatories are granted planning permission by local authorities. Permitted Development, however, gives you a free range to improve your home without having any issues from the councils or regulations. Before your planned loft conversion can be covered under Permitted Development, there are some certain criteria that must be met. This criteria includes the following:

✓ The extension must not go beyond the existing slope of the roof at the front of the house.

✓ The loft space converted must not go beyond 40 cubic metres in a terraced house.

✓ The roof’s height must not be increased by the extension.

✓ The loft space converted must not reach beyond 50 cubic metres in a detached or semi detached house.

✓ The plan for the extension mustn’t involve structures like balconies, verandas or anything other structures of this nature.

✓ The roof extension should be positioned as far back as possible or at least 20cm from the existing eaves.

✓ The side that faces the window openings should be at least 1.7m beyond the floor and the windows should also be obscured.

✓ The roof extension must not overhang the existing roof or wall of the house.

✓ The materials that are to be used must be similar or the same to the materials that has already been used on the house’s exterior.

However, you should bear in mind that there are some properties that are exempt from Permitted Development. Examples of these type of properties include conservation areas, Areas Of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage sites. Permitted Development does not also provide coverage for listed buildings.

Is your bathroom sink damaged or old and looking fragile? If yes, then you’re most likely interested in fitting a new one as soon as possible. So how do you go about the installation of a new bathroom sink? This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to bathroom sinks and for a good reason. The fact is, if you’re DIY competent, then this is a task that shouldn’t give you too many hard times. However, if you’re without a proper training or experience, we’d recommend hiring the services of a plumber to guarantee the best results as save yourself some time and additional money which may result from costly errors. In this guide, you’ll learn the steps to bathroom sink installation.

✓ Tap preparation. Apply a small amount of plumber’s mate putty to the base of the taps to be installed.

✓ Install the taps. Identify the taps holes in the sink and squeeze the taps firmly in place, fit the washers and back nuts to the sink’s underside.

✓ Wipe off excess putty. Use a suitable tool to wipe off excess putty that has been pressed out by the tap.

✓ Install the wastage drain. Fit the wastage drain easily into the sink in such a way that the back and front (not side to side) is faced by the two wastage holes.

✓ Tighten the wastage pipe. Squeeze the wastage pipe in, include the washer on the opposite side as well as the nut. Tighten properly with an adjustable spanner and wipe off excess put using a screwdriver or any suitable tool.

✓ Fit the sink to the wall. Put the bolts in position before hanging the sink. Once done, then bolt the sink to the wall and tighten the nut with an adjustable spanner.

✓ Ensure that it’s level with the help of a spirit level.

There’ll certainly come a time in which even the neatest and tidiest of homes will do just fine with a good deep cleaning. As a pretty tedious task which can easily become overwhelming, it’s always helpful to break the tasks into smaller and more manageable tasks. This guide will show you the best approach to take to have your residential property deep cleaned. However, if you are not confident enough to pull this off, we’d strongly advise that you get in touch with a professional domestic cleaners who can help guarantee the best results and also save you some time as well as money that could result from costly errors or accidents.

• Dust your house. Dust each and every single room of your house, including the topsides of all furnitures, the undersides of the shelves as well as the handrails, picture frames, TV screens and knickknacks. It’s always better and easier to dry dust, but you can also dampen a microfibre cloth with warm water to get rid of stubborn stains.
• Clean furniture fabric. Neaten the pillows and furniture blankets, strip and remake beds. Also, brush the furniture surfaces using a vacuum extension as required.
• Clean the mirrors and glass. Use a soft and clean cloth (both wet and dry) to wipe down mirrors and windows throughout the house.
• Clean surfaces. Wipe all surfaces throughout the house and disinfect as needed. Ensure to clean all surfaces that the fingers touch like door handles, light swtiches, TV remotes and the likes.
• Clean the kitchen and bathroom. Spray cleaner on sinks, tubs and toilets and leave for some minutes before coming back to scrub. Wipe down the microwave, cabinet and appliance doors in the kitchen.
• Clean floors. Sweep and mop or scrub the floors as required.
• Vacuum the house. Make sure that all the necessary areas are well vacuumed.

Some properties are unable to have double glazing, especially those in conservation areas or listed buildings. To counter this problem and still benefit from a warmer home and cheaper bills, secondary glazing is an option. Secondary glazing is a second pane fitted inside your original window. Secondary glazing will still save you around £105 yearly.

How To Tile A Kitchen Floor

Tiling your kitchen floor can seem a daunting task at first glance, but is a skill that can be mastered after a couple of practices. With this simple guide, you will find it easier to satisfy your kitchen floor tiling needs.

lPrepare The Subfloor

• Ensure the subfloor is very secure to support both the tile and the people working across it.

• If necessary, you can strengthen the kitchen floor with the help of a vinyl, heavy felt or any other good backer board.

• After successfully securing the floor, proceed to clear out all dust and dirt.

lMix The Mortar

• Mix a thinset mortar be referring to the instructions on the package. ( Mix only the quantity you can apply within 30 minutes).

• Once the mixture looks similar to the thickness of mayonnaise, allow it to rest for about 10 minutes before application.

lApply The Mortar

• Apply a thin layer of mortar

• Do not cover extensive areas as the mortar can become very dry.

• Spread the mortar with a trowel in curved patterns to make it flat on the floor.

lSet The Tile

• Set down the tile slowly, apply a little pressure until its holds firmly to the surface. ( Apply a consistent amount of pressure throughout to ensure equal heights for all the tiles)

• Continue with the process until all full tiles are well positioned

lCut The Tiles

• Once all the full tile pieces are in place, start cutting to cover the edges requiring smaller tile pieces.

• Take accurate measurements of the outer edges needing smaller tile pieces.

• Cut the tile pieces to fit the measurement taken with the help of a wet saw or hand tile cutter.

lGrouting

• Remove all spacers and mortar residues and lay the grout

• Apply the grout along the tiles’ seams with a grout float

• Clean out excess grout with a damp sponge after leaving it to dry for about 30 minutes

• Once the grout is fully dried, apply the sealer (the drying process normally takes within 3 to 4 days).

For the best results, it’s advisable to contact a tiling professional for help when it comes to kitchen floor tiling especially if you have no training or prior experience. This way, you can get the best quality and also avoid the regrettable mistakes and extra costs that’s very common with newbies.

A thermostatic shower is simply a shower that only needs to be set at a given temperature and it automatically maintains this set water temperature all by itself. Typically, this type of shower functions with the three primary types of water system available in the UK. Thermostatic showers are very popular in residential buildings featuring both mains-fed hot water systems as well as combi-boiler systems due to the fact that they’re both renowned for the ease through which the flow of water can be affected by the actions of other individuals. In some events, this can mean the action of individuals in separate properties. As a result, gravity-fed water systems are usually more reliable, but even at that, thermostatic shower valves are mostly seen as an additional safety feature that’s quite useful should it be required. So how exactly does the thermostatic shower work?

A thermostatic shower makes use of a thermostatic valve to mix both the cold and hot feeds in the right proportion prior to channeling the water via the showerhead. As a result of the link that exists between water pressure and water temperature, this is able to maintain a steady flow. What’s more? Contemporary thermostatic showers can also shut down by itself if it observes that the supply of cold water has reduced to a level that’s considered to be unsafe which ultimately prevents scalding. What thermostatic showers simply does is to store hot water from the mains and then mix it with the right quantity of cold water in order to generate the desired temperature. They’re unlike electric showers which collect cold water from the mains and heat it up to the set temperature.