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Do Locksmiths Need A License?

If you’re in the UK, the simple answer to this question is no. The locksmithing industry in the country is an unregulated one by the United Kingdom’s government. Ultimately, this implies that anybody can be a locksmith with their competence, background or motive being irrelevant. Areas in the security industry that are licensed by the government include door staff as well as keyholding businesses, with the government overlooking the locksmith industry as they do not want to heighten the legislative burden on small businesses.

There are a number of implications for an unregulated industry such as the locksmithing industry. This includes:

• Anyone can wake up in the morning, pick up a set of tools and call themselves a locksmith without being termed as illegal.

• The fact that the industry is not regulated means that there’s no price structure to follow. There’s no price guide for locksmithing services, so they are free to charge whatever price they wish to. As a result, the price of a locksmith can greatly vary from the other for the same or similar tasks.

• Irrespective of your background, competence or motive, you can decide to trade as a locksmith.

Although there are about 6,500 locksmiths in the UK that are not licensed, we do have about 350 plus MLA approved locksmiths. Being MLA approved means they’ve been fully vetted, inspected and fully qualified to operate as a professional locksmith.

The Master Locksmith Association ( MLA) possesses its very own licensing scheme for MLA approved companies. This means that the locksmithing businesses that are listed on the Master Locksmith Association’s find a locksmith page and incorporate their official logo are being inspected on a regular basis, have been vetted by using the standard level DBS checks and have passed the exam based proof of competence test.

An awning usually attaches to an exterior wall of your home, business or outbuilding, or to the outside of a boat, campervan or caravan. It acts as an extra piece of roof or covering to shelter people from sun, rain or wind when they’re outside.

Lots of awnings are retractable, with either a manual or automatic folding mechanism. You also get static awnings that are up permanently. You often find awnings fixed over the top of doors or windows.

If you’re interested in deriving maximum benefits from your central heating system while also being a tech-enthusiast, a smart thermostat is just the perfect option as it allows you to control both your boiler and heating system via your mobile device. It also offers a plethora of features which enables you to heat your home more efficiently while also cutting your energy bills. Here, we’ll be taking a deeper look at the Tado smart thermostat (a user friendly smart thermostat with multiple impressive features such as a great design, self learning and LED interface).

A Tado smart thermostat is a relatively small piece of kit which is perfect for tech-lovers looking to get a first experience of the smart thermostats’ world. Although the appliance might feature just a basic design with a bit less advanced features in comparison with other thermostats like Hive, Nest and more, it however, still comes with some fantastic features which you can’t afford to miss out on. These includes geofencing, Smartphone or tablet control as well as heat scheduling. As you would have expected with any good smart thermostat, the ability to remotely control your heating is a top priority for several smart thermostats’ owners and Tado offers you this and more. Therefore, no more worries during the Winter months and wishing your home should be warm and perfect for your return. Aside this, a Tado smart thermostat also goes a long way to ensure efficient energy use and as a result, reducing the money paid on energy bills.

Overall, Tado is a nicely designed smart thermostat which is relatively easy to use and a perfect option for homeowners interested in having a taste of the world of smart thermostats or looking to replace their existing device.

If you’re planning to add a kitchen extension to your property or perhaps you’re simply looking for ways to increase the value of your property, this is one of the common questions that usually pops up. A simple answer to this question is yes, a kitchen extension will add value to your house. With a kitchen being one of the most frequently used room in a house, adding an extra space to the commonly used room can only increase the value of the entire property. However, to determine the value added by such an extension, there’s a need to calculate the cost of setting one up first.

Kitchen extension costs are greatly influenced by a wide range of variables such as the size, type of the extension and specifications, your location, professional fees, materials used and more. Overall, the type of the extension you opt for will play the most significant role in the determination of your kitchen extension cost. Here, we’ll be looking at a single storey kitchen extension.

For a single storey kitchen extension, you can expect your home’s market value to increase within the range of 5 percent to about 10 percent. When trying to calculate the cost of kitchen extension, it’s crucial to take into account how much value it’ll add to your home so as to make sure that the amount expended will not outweigh the expected value to be added by the project.

For a more accurate idea, there’s the need to consult local estate agents. However, for a much needed guideline, single storey kitchen extensions are usually able to add about 5 to 10 percent to a home’s value, while double storey extension should be up to 20 percent. But as stated earlier, this will depend on several variables.

How Do You Bleed An Oil Boiler?

Bleeding air between the oil supply and an oil fired boiler’s burner is a process that’s often required when the system has run out of oil and the burner has stopped working. Upon refilling the oil tank, the air that has been trapped within the oil pipe when empty has to be freed to ensure that the oil reaches the burner and allows it to start again. So how do you go about the process?

First and foremost, it must be noted that it’s always better to be on the look out for the amount of oil in your fuel tank and get it refilled before it runs out. However, if it does run out, you can take the following steps:

• Identify the burner

The burner is a red plastic cover and it’s usually positioned on the bottom part of the boiler (mostly inside the boiler casing). Once identified, inspect it to see if the lockout button is lit red. If yes, simply unscrew and detach the burner’s red case using a flat head screwdriver.

• Identify the oil pump

You’ll find the oil pump on the burner’s left side which is connected to the flexible oil line. Once done, simply locate the 3 inches long hexagonal stem protruding from the pump and with a small threaded plug screwed into the end. Unscrew the plug in just half a turn ( 180 degrees) with a 4mm Allen Key. At this stage oil will be released, do ensure there’s a cloth or rag underneath the plug to grab the oil freed.

• Press the lockout button

This is the next and final step. However it’s also crucial to note that the burner fan will run for about 12 seconds and discharge some oil from the loosened plug which you can grab with a cloth or rag. Immediately you hear a buzzing sound, use the Allen key to tighten the plug. If enough air has been bled, the system will fire. But if not, then you’ll have to repeat the process again.

Rendering of a house is one of those projects that can greatly improve the visual appeal of your home, enhance it’s energy efficiency, protect the brickwork from the elements and ultimately, add value to your home. Generally, the cost of rendering a house normally costs within the range of £25 to £70 per metre square, while the average cost house rendering costs stands at about £40 per square metre. Therefore, a 3 bedroom semi detached house will cost within the range of £4000 to about £5000.

The total cost of rendering a house is determined by a wide range of factors. These factors includes the following:

✓ Type of the rendering. There are three main types of rendering which includes sand and cement rendering, monocouche rendering as well as acrylic or silicone rendering. However, re-rendering applies to sand and cement sooner and it’ll also have to be painted every 3 to 6 years. Consequently, longer term cost can be higher when compared to the other types.

✓ Ease of access. Where your contractor will have to work around obstacles like shrubs or conservatory, this can make the cost a bit higher as it’ll take longer time to complete.

✓ Prep work. If the contractor needs to fill some cracks or perhaps an old mortar requires tuck pointing before rendering can be started, this will also affect the cost.

✓ Scaffolding. In the event whereby the job requires the use of scaffolding and you’ll have to hire one as a different cost, then the price will be higher.

✓ Your location. Due to the high standards of living and higher demands in areas like London or the Southeast, prices in these regions are usually higher than that of the other regions like Midlands and North.

Choose an architect whose design vision fits with yours – but make sure they’ve got something new to bring to the table. Also check them out to see what projects they have previously undertaken. Ask them. Communication is vital. Pick a commercial architect who can communicate well with everybody involved in the project.

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.