Find a Roofer you can trust in Western Midlands.

Competent Roofer is a scheme that allows professionals to self-certify that their work is in line with Building Regulations. If you don’t use a registered Competent Roofer, you’ll have to pay your local authority to certify the work, so we recommend you use a Competent Roofer to save yourself extra outlay at the end.

How Much Is It To Replace A Garage Roof?

The size of your garage will be the main determinant of the cost of a new garage roof. However, the present condition of your roof structure as well as the type of roof covering preferred are also huge factors. In the UK, the cost of a garage roof replacement will be within the range of £700 to £3600.

The first step a pro will take is to remove the existing roofing while also making sure that the timber structure is in a good condition. In the event whereby the timber is rotten, it will need to be replaced before the installation of a new roof. If the garage roof sheets needs a replacement, you’ll have to spend about £30 to £50 per each garage roof sheets. Individual plywood sheet has around 2.4m x 1.2m in measurement and whose price should also be included in the final cost.

The above information applies only to standard roofing for garage roofs with flat roofs being made of bitumen felt and asphalt. In recent times, this is no longer the case with several more options available. Today, EPDM and GRP fibreglass have rapidly become very popular amongst several homeowners in the country. It’s also important to note that modern roofing has greatly advanced over the years even though both EPDM garage roofs and GRP fibreglass garage roofs are way better and of more quality when compared to felt and asphalt roofs. And thanks to modern technology, modern garage roofing possesses a longer life expectancy and as result, are a lot costlier than the conventional ones.

For a medium size single garage (2.7m x 5.5m), the cost for a felt roof per square metre is between £40 to £70, while that of a fiberglass roof and an EPDM rubber roof is between £90 to £110 and £70 to £100 respectively.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

In general, no – you don’t need planning permission for a Velux window. The Planning Portal says that you don’t need to apply for planning permission to install a roof window if the following conditions are met:

• A roof window must not protrude more than 150 millimetres above the existing roof plane
No roof window or any other alteration can be higher than the highest part of the roof or stand out above the roof ridge
• Side-facing windows must have obscure glazing to protect privacy of neighbours and, if they open, they must be 1.7 metres above the floor of the room in which they are installed

You don’t need to apply for planning permission for a roof window because they are covered under permitted development rights. However, if you’re a leaseholder or you live in a building where your local authority has made an Article 4 Direction, you will have to apply. Usually, an Article 4 Direction is made when you live in a conservation area where any external home improvements could affect the character and look of the area. Luckily, there are special Velux windows that are designed to be more likely to be accepted by your local planning authority. They’re called conservation windows and, although there’s still no guarantee that they will be accepted, they are designed to look more traditional. Even if you don’t need planning permission for your roof window, you still need to follow any relevant building regulations for your local authority. The most important parts for Velux windows are section J and section L of building regulations, which refer to energy efficiency, thermal insulation and fire protection.

How To Clean And Maintain Metal Roofs

If you already have a metal roof or just planning to get one, you’d probably be interested in knowing the cleaning and maintenance procedures. Although, metal roof are widely known to be very easy to clean and maintain and also very durable and long lasting, it’s still strongly recommended that homeowners should do all in their power clean and to take care of their metal roof in order to ensure it they live up to their potentials. Cleaning your metal roofs regularly helps to minimize damaging element such as airborne dirt, pollen, organic material debris, pollution, mildew and lots more. If left unattended to, these unwanted elements can result in several negative issues over time as such as chalking. Due to fact that metal roofs normally features special coatings as well as paint, cleaning the roof is both easy and environmentally friendly, which removes the need to use toxic chemicals. With just plain water, you can effectively wash down dirt, dust and other debris from your metal roof.

While the cleaning process is quite simple, working at height can be incredibly dangerous. It requires skills and confidence, so if you lack either of these qualities, it’s advisable to call in a professional roof cleaning contractor for help. Below is a simple cleaning solution usful for most metal roofs.

✓ In the event whereby water alone isn’t enough, make a cleaning solution using a quarter cup detergent ( which should include car washing soap, mild laundry detergent, mild dish soap) for each gallon of water.

✓ Apply the mixture to the surface of the roof with a wash cloth and ensure to the application gently.

✓ After application, allow it sit for up to 15mins.

✓ Rinse the roof surface with plain water.

A roof serves as something which is so much more than just a top of a building. A roof delivers guard from the elements and precipitation, it also helps drain water from a structure, and helps to provide insulation to the structure allowing it to keep the interior of a building cool or warm, according to season.

There are several steps to building a roof

Mount the trusses.

This step requires the building’s wall frames to be completely level, square and plumb. If you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame you must use ladders or scaffolding. Hoist the trusses onto the roof.

Install temporary braces.

You will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed, this has to be done before you install the trusses. At the centre of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud.

Install the end trusses.

Install the two end trusses at the front and back of the building, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. The batten you take will have to be a bit longer than the distance will separate the trusses.

Install the standard trusses.

According to the instructions provided by the manufacturer, you will first need to install the first standard truss. You will also need to nail it to the batten from the first truss.

Sheath the roof.

Once your trusses permanently braced, you can begin with the sheathing of the roof. Starting from the bottom corner and moving across the bottom, the sheathing is installed lengthwise.

Install the roof cover.

Like the sheathing and underlayment procedures, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. The shingles should be staggered, and they should also overlap at the same time. You will need to work up to the ridge and use a ridge cap shingles to finish the ridge.

Blisters are most common on membrane roofing systems. Lots of contractors will tell you that if there are no signs of further damage, there might not be any need to repair flat roof blisters. They form when pockets of air or water get trapped between layers of the roof’s membrane or between the membrane and the frame. When the sun is out and it heats the pockets expand and stretch the membrane. If you do want to repair your flat roof blisters, there are a few ways to go about it.

If you have a membrane flat roof, cut away the membrane until you reach a place where the membrane is still stuck tightly to the roof. Reapply as many new membrane layers as you cut away over the blistered area. You might even need to do more. To make sure your patch remains watertight, you’ll need to leave at least 6 inches around the edges of the blister.

If you’ve got a felt roof, you can cut an X shape through the blister. Peel back the triangles that you’ve made and let the timber frame dry for a while (so don’t do this when rain is forecast!). Then, coat the area with lots of bitumen adhesive and leave it to dry until it feels tacky. Then press down the triangles of felt firmly into the adhesive.

After that, you’ll need to add more bitumen adhesive to the cuts you made. If you’ve got any spare roofing felt, cut a square that’s about 100mm bigger than the cuts then lay this over the adhesive. If you’ve not got any felt, it’s cheaper to use a self-adhesive flashing strip. Once you’ve laid the strip or patch over, seal the edges with more bitumen adhesive.