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As long as you can access them safely, it’s fairly easy to clean soffits and fascias. Using a sponge and warm water to scrub them is a good way to get off most types of dirt. You might want to add detergent or bleach to the water to make it more effective.

Once you’ve scrubbed your soffits and fascias, rinse them with clean water to make sure you’ve got all of the dirt and detergent off.

Strong winds can cause extensive damage to unprotected rooftops and in fact tiles act as very suitable protection. The extra weight they provide is great at countering high wind loads and if anything is damaged during severe weather, replacing tiles is straight forward for professional roofers.When you compare this to lightweight materials there’s a significant difference. If you wish to have extra protection, experts recommended having sarking fitted.

What Is The Average Cost To Replace A Flat Roof?

Are you interested in knowing how much it costs to replace a flat roof? Here, you’ll discover a price breakdown for replacing flat roof. This includes a number of price determining factors such as materials costs as well as cost of labour and cost per square metre. All these enables you to make easy calculations so that you can determine a flat roof replacement estimate for your own project.

The type of flat roof that is the most common type is the garage roof and for the replacement of a single garage roof, the cost will fall between the range of £700 to £1000. Meanwhile for a double garage, you should expect a price increase of about 40 percent to 50 percent. The main price determinant that’s affecting the price of a new flat roof is the material incorporated in making it. For instance, lead or fibreglass are much more expensive when compared to felt roofs.

Generally, the cost of a flat roof replacement will fall within the range of £700 to £1300 varying largely due to the type of materials to be used by the roofer, the roof’s size as well as whether or not scaffolding would be used. Multiple flat roof applications also comes with different costs which includes:

• Felt roof ( £40 to £60 per square metre).

• Fibreglass roof ( £70to £90 per square metre ).

• Rubber roof ( £80 to £85 per square metre ).

• Lead bay roof ( £90 to £105 per square metre ).

• Fibreglass bay roof ( £40 to £60 per square metre ).

Several professional roofers work in pairs and to hire them you’re likely to be charged between £200 to £300 per day. The project can be completed with just a day’s work, but the installer should be back to make sure there are no leaks.

If you’ve never had Velux windows before, you might be wondering how to open them. If you’ve got very high ceilings and your roof windows are set high up in the pitch of the roof, you might not even be able to reach them. So how do you open them in this case?

When Velux windows are installed so high that they’re out of reach, the installers will often recommend that they install an electric switch for you to open and close your windows. They often come with a rain sensor, so you don’t need to rush up to the top of the house if there’s a sudden downpour – they will close automatically. You can also choose to have a remote so you can open and close your roof windows wherever you are in the room.

If you don’t have an electric switch, but you still can’t reach to open and close your Velux windows, you should be supplied with a telescopic pole when they’re installed. If you weren’t or you’ve moved into a home with roof windows and there isn’t one, you can buy them online. They have a hook on the end and can be extended to the correct length so you can hook it over the handle of the window and pull or push to open it.

If you’ve got a top-hung Velux window that can also be opened in a centre-pivot position, it’s easy to switch between the two. Simply ensure the window is completely closed before you start, then open the handle up – but don’t push it out. Then pull the vent bar down until the sash is rotated 180 degrees. Then secure the position by sliding the barrel bolts into the holes at either side of the bottom of the frame. Easy!

How To Replace Roof Tiles

If your roof tiles is cracked, missing or damaged in one form or the other, you may want to read up to see if the replacement is something you can do by yourself. The answer is yes, roof tiles replacement can be done as a DIY project especially if you’re an experienced DIYer or confident enough to tackle the project. However, if you lack the confidence needed to take on this task, then we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a professional roofer who can guarantee the best results for help. In this article, we’ll show you how you can replace your roof tiles with relative ease. Let’s take a look!

✓ As you would have rightly guessed, the first step to replacing your roof tiles is to remove the existing damaged roof tile to create space for the new tile. In the event whereby the roof tile is nailed to down, you will have to pry the nails off before proceeding with the broken tile removal.

✓ Once the damaged tile has been removed, the next step is to replace the roof tile as there’ll now be a gap in the roofing area. Simply position the new tile rightly into the space that was formerly filled by the old damaged tile.

✓ After successfully placing the new tiles in spot of the removed tile, you’ll now have to replace the overlapping tiles to their correct position to secure them. To this with a hammer to lift the overlapping tiles a little bit, so you can pull them back into the appropriate place.

✓ This final step is not a necessary one. However, if you’d like to secure your roof tiles further, you can simply nail it into place with a hammer.

Blisters are most common on membrane roofing systems. Lots of contractors will tell you that if there are no signs of further damage, there might not be any need to repair flat roof blisters. They form when pockets of air or water get trapped between layers of the roof’s membrane or between the membrane and the frame. When the sun is out and it heats the pockets expand and stretch the membrane. If you do want to repair your flat roof blisters, there are a few ways to go about it.

If you have a membrane flat roof, cut away the membrane until you reach a place where the membrane is still stuck tightly to the roof. Reapply as many new membrane layers as you cut away over the blistered area. You might even need to do more. To make sure your patch remains watertight, you’ll need to leave at least 6 inches around the edges of the blister.

If you’ve got a felt roof, you can cut an X shape through the blister. Peel back the triangles that you’ve made and let the timber frame dry for a while (so don’t do this when rain is forecast!). Then, coat the area with lots of bitumen adhesive and leave it to dry until it feels tacky. Then press down the triangles of felt firmly into the adhesive.

After that, you’ll need to add more bitumen adhesive to the cuts you made. If you’ve got any spare roofing felt, cut a square that’s about 100mm bigger than the cuts then lay this over the adhesive. If you’ve not got any felt, it’s cheaper to use a self-adhesive flashing strip. Once you’ve laid the strip or patch over, seal the edges with more bitumen adhesive.

A roof serves as something which is so much more than just a top of a building. A roof delivers guard from the elements and precipitation, it also helps drain water from a structure, and helps to provide insulation to the structure allowing it to keep the interior of a building cool or warm, according to season.

There are several steps to building a roof

Mount the trusses.

This step requires the building’s wall frames to be completely level, square and plumb. If you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame you must use ladders or scaffolding. Hoist the trusses onto the roof.

Install temporary braces.

You will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed, this has to be done before you install the trusses. At the centre of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud.

Install the end trusses.

Install the two end trusses at the front and back of the building, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. The batten you take will have to be a bit longer than the distance will separate the trusses.

Install the standard trusses.

According to the instructions provided by the manufacturer, you will first need to install the first standard truss. You will also need to nail it to the batten from the first truss.

Sheath the roof.

Once your trusses permanently braced, you can begin with the sheathing of the roof. Starting from the bottom corner and moving across the bottom, the sheathing is installed lengthwise.

Install the roof cover.

Like the sheathing and underlayment procedures, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. The shingles should be staggered, and they should also overlap at the same time. You will need to work up to the ridge and use a ridge cap shingles to finish the ridge.

Chimney liners are a very important component of the chimney, but the fact is most home and property owners either continue to overlook them or aren’t even aware of their existence. This is, however, quite understandable given the fact that they usually last a long period of time – more than 50 years. To ensure that they last that long, the question that arises is, do chimney liners need to be swept and cleaned? The short and simple answer to this question is yes, chimney liners definitely needs to be cleaned on a frequent basis. A chimney liner happens to be an essential part of your chimney. When it’s not cleaned, it tends to accumulate dust, soot and dirt which can give rise to a number of problems you’d rather want to avoid. Chimney liner are able to provide adequate protection to your flue but even at that the water, creosote and other contaminant build up can make the liner to deteriorate, and making it unsafe for usage. In other words, contrary to several belief, chimney liners do need the same amount of cleaning as chimneys without liners. Failure to sweep your chimney liners can give rise to the following problems:

• Creosote buildup. If your main source of fire is wood, then you’ll definitely have creosote present in your chimney. This is highly combustible and its buildup may lead to fire outbreak.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is said to be on the rise by NCBI and its primarily generated from heating systems which are terribly ventilated as a result of uncleaned or dirty chimneys.