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Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

An eave is the edge of a roof, which is why they are now and then called roof eaves. On a household's outside, eaves can stick out outside the side of the building, serving both ornamental and applied purposes. The eave of a house has come to mean the lower area of the roof that projects after the external covering, as opposite to a cornice, which is part of the entablature in Classical architecture.

Think of how a roof outspreads outside the covering, and then think about how a hard rain may roll down the roof and, on the ground, away from the structure. Centuries ago, the eavesdrop was that indentation line made around a structure when the rain fell off the edge of the roof onto the ground.

Types of Eaves

A roof can come to a conclusion in essentially three ways. A closed eave is the one which has very little or no overhang at all. An open eave has a visible overhang, projecting beyond the roof brackets. A boxed eave is surrounded with a soffit.

The Use of Eaves?

An eave can defend the siding and substance of a structure. A roof eave bulging beyond the sides permits snow and rain to fall from the roof away from the covering, to the ground. The more the "weather" gets thrown away from the household, the chances of you having a dry basement increases.

In cases of regions with a warmer climate, a large eave can help provide shade to the interior of the house. In rainy environments, the prolonged eaves of Asian architecture deliver shelter from the climate, as well as direction. In the 21st century, an eave may be an inconspicuous site for security cameras and light.

How To Clean Algae Off Roof Shingles

Stains and dirt on asphalt shingles can only make your entire house look shabby which can go a long way to hide away the true value of your building. In some cases, dirts and stains on asphalt roofing shingles are nothing more than a cosmetic issue. However, there are also times in which it goes far beyond this - when the stains are indicators of a problem that if ignored, can result in a serious roof damage and ultimately, roof failure. In most cases, it’s usually hard to distinguish these stains and hence, the more reason why your asphalt roofing shingles should be regularly cleaned and maintained. In this article, we’re going to look at how you can get rid of algae of your roof shingles.

Algae growth on roof usually have either blue, green or black stains. They normally begin with little spots which will develop into streaks overtime. These stains are mostly mistaken for moss or mildew and aren’t harmful to any other thing than the roof shingles. However, the look it gives the entire house is something nobody enjoys.

It should be noted that this is a task that deals with working at height and requires skills and confidence to pull off. If you lack any of these qualities, simply reach out to a professional for help.

✓ Safety first. Put on protective clothing.

✓ Apply a bleach solution with a garden sprayer and let it sit for up to 20 minutes

✓ Rinse the roof thereafter with the stream from the hose (do not use a pressure washer as it can damage the roof shingles)

✓ If there are still algae left after rinsing with water, you can make use of a brush with medium-stiff bristles to gently scrub the stains off. If some stains are still left, simply let the roof dry before repeating the process again.

How to repair your flat garage roof will depend on what it’s made from. Lots of flat garage roofs are made from EDPM rubber, asphalt or felt. We’ll explain how to carry out repairs on your garage roof here. EDPM rubber flat roof repair EDPM rubber is an excellent choice for a flat garage roof and should need little maintenance. But if you do need to repair it, there are a few easy fixes. If it’s a small crack or tear, apply some lap sealant to the area, but don’t use too much. If you go for a more professional repair later, the sealant will need to be scraped off, so if there’s too much it might cost you more in labour. If you need to repair the flashing, buy some malleable flashing tape so you can form it into the right shape. Clean and dry the area that needs repairing, then apply an EDPM primer. When that’s touch dry, stick the patch of flashing tape down from the centre outwards with a roller. Repairing an asphalt flat garage roof Asphalt is also very hard-wearing, and when it does need fixing, the fixes often last a long time. So if you do get cracks or blisters, you can use a paint-on fix from a tin as a temporary repair. When it’s time for a more permanent fix, you can add a small patch of torched-on roofing felt or use a liquid system, but the high-quality ones are often only available to trade customers. How to repair a felt flat garage roof Felt can be repaired in a similar way to asphalt flat garage roofs. For small cracks or a temporary fix, try a paint-on treatment from a tin. But for something more permanent, use a patch of torched-on roofing felt or a liquid system. If these don’t stick, unfortunately it means it’s time for a new felt garage roof. If you do need a new flat garage roof, leave it to the professionals who will ensure that your new roof will last for years.

How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.

Ponding is where you see pools of water appearing on your flat roof. Unless your roof is leaking or showing other signs of damage, you don’t need to replace it. When you do have your flat roof replaced, tell the contractor so they can find out the cause of the ponding.

Will My Roof Leak With Missing Ridge Tiles?

Your roof is the first line of defence against the elements. Therefore, if you want your home protected at all times, there’s a need to ensure a professional inspection of your home at least once a year. However, there are certain issues that you do not have to wait for a professional to be able to spot by yourself. And an example of this includes a missing ridge tile. This issue is noticeable from the ground level while some tiles may even fall off and notifying you in the process. If you’re currently facing this kind of challenge, you’d probably want to know if the missing ridge tiles can cause your roof to leak. In this article, we aim to answer this question and more. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, there are a number of causes of missing tiles or slates and the most obvious is the weather. When the wind or rain gets very high, it can pull your tiles out of place and even more more, if they weren’t properly installed in the first place. Secondly, there’s also a chance that the nails may wear away. These are the nails that holds your ridge tiles in place, they can rust and wear away, hence leading to missing ridge tiles.

Therefore, the short answer to the question is yes, missing ridge tiles can cause your roof to leak. Even if it doesn’t leave a visible gap in your roof’s covering, it’ll create a break in the roof which weather can easily penetrate. And allowing this to happen makes the other tiles more susceptible to damage which won’t be good for the entire house as well as your pocket. Hence, once you notice a missing ridge tile ensure to have it replaced as soon as possible.