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It can be easy to repair a felt flat roof depending on the problem. If you’ve got an old-style pour-and-roll felt flat roof, you might be starting to run into problems, but even if you have a newer torch-on felt roof, issues can occur. You might find cracks, lifting, leaking flashings or dips and hollows in the felt. Luckily, there are some easy fixes – but the best thing to do to prolong the life of your felt flat roof is to get a professional to look at it.

If your felt flat roof only needs a small repair, you might be able to get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin that you just brush on. However, if you want a more permanent fix, you’ll need a few more tools and supplies.

You can use a patch of torched-on roofing felt over the crack or leak, but if your flat roof is very damaged or wet it might not take it. You can also buy liquid systems for felt roofs, but again, there is a possibility that your roof might not take it. Also most of the high-quality liquid systems are only available for trade customers, so you might be better off asking a roofing pro to do it for you.

Whether you’re liable for a leaking roof in a commercial property will depend on your ownership status and any contracts. Of course, if you own a standalone commercial property, it would make it your responsibility to repair to leaking roof. But if you own an office within a building, you should check your paperwork to see whether you are responsible for some or all of a leaking roof.

If you’re a tenant in a commercial property, things get a bit more complicated. Lots of commercial leases are FRI, or Full Repairing and Insuring leases, which means that the tenant is responsible for all external and internal maintenance and insuring the building. It means that it’s vital that you read through your tenancy agreement in full before signing it and seek legal advice if you think you need it. If your lease is an FRI lease, you are liable for a leaking roof in your commercial property.

It’s important to ensure that you have a schedule of condition for the property, which will mean that you only have to restore the commercial property back to the condition that it was in when you took over. It’s also worth getting the roof inspected before you sign the lease, as if there is any damage before you sign the landlord may be responsible.

The best way to avoid having to pay for a leaking roof in a commercial property is prevention. If you are liable for repairs and maintenance, make sure you have the roof inspected regularly by a reputable company to avoid having to pay for costly repairs when disaster strikes.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

Chimney liners are a very important component of the chimney, but the fact is most home and property owners either continue to overlook them or aren’t even aware of their existence. This is, however, quite understandable given the fact that they usually last a long period of time – more than 50 years. To ensure that they last that long, the question that arises is, do chimney liners need to be swept and cleaned? The short and simple answer to this question is yes, chimney liners definitely needs to be cleaned on a frequent basis. A chimney liner happens to be an essential part of your chimney. When it’s not cleaned, it tends to accumulate dust, soot and dirt which can give rise to a number of problems you’d rather want to avoid. Chimney liner are able to provide adequate protection to your flue but even at that the water, creosote and other contaminant build up can make the liner to deteriorate, and making it unsafe for usage. In other words, contrary to several belief, chimney liners do need the same amount of cleaning as chimneys without liners. Failure to sweep your chimney liners can give rise to the following problems:

• Creosote buildup. If your main source of fire is wood, then you’ll definitely have creosote present in your chimney. This is highly combustible and its buildup may lead to fire outbreak.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is said to be on the rise by NCBI and its primarily generated from heating systems which are terribly ventilated as a result of uncleaned or dirty chimneys.

While it sounds like it could be difficult to plasterboard around a Velux window, it needn’t be. As long as you have the right tools and materials, you should be able to plasterboard around your roof window easily and make good ready to be skimmed. When you or a tradesperson has fitted your Velux window into your roof, you’ll probably need to plasterboard over it to create a good ceiling. To do this, you’ll need:

• Plasterboard sheets – make sure you measure your room so you know how much you’ll need
• Screws to secure the board in place
• Drill
• Hammer
• Straight edge and pen knife to score the board before trimming
• Fine toothed saw the cut the plasterboard

When you’re ready to plasterboard around your roof window, make sure you’ve cleared enough space to work in. Then you can begin by cutting your plasterboard to size using your straight edge and pen knife to score, then your saw to get a clean cut. A common way of plasterboarding around your Velux window is to use the groove on the window frame to hold one edge of the board, then screw the other edge to the battens on the ceiling. People often use drywall screws these days as they have a better grip of the plasterboard as they drive through. You’ll need to use a drill to screw these in. However, you could use plasterboard nails, which are galvanised to stop rusting. When you’ve done this, you can then skim the walls or ask a plasterer to do it for you. Plastering, while it looks easy, is a tricky skill so it’s always best to ask a professional to do it.

How To Replace Roof Tiles

If your roof tiles is cracked, missing or damaged in one form or the other, you may want to read up to see if the replacement is something you can do by yourself. The answer is yes, roof tiles replacement can be done as a DIY project especially if you’re an experienced DIYer or confident enough to tackle the project. However, if you lack the confidence needed to take on this task, then we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a professional roofer who can guarantee the best results for help. In this article, we’ll show you how you can replace your roof tiles with relative ease. Let’s take a look!

✓ As you would have rightly guessed, the first step to replacing your roof tiles is to remove the existing damaged roof tile to create space for the new tile. In the event whereby the roof tile is nailed to down, you will have to pry the nails off before proceeding with the broken tile removal.

✓ Once the damaged tile has been removed, the next step is to replace the roof tile as there’ll now be a gap in the roofing area. Simply position the new tile rightly into the space that was formerly filled by the old damaged tile.

✓ After successfully placing the new tiles in spot of the removed tile, you’ll now have to replace the overlapping tiles to their correct position to secure them. To this with a hammer to lift the overlapping tiles a little bit, so you can pull them back into the appropriate place.

✓ This final step is not a necessary one. However, if you’d like to secure your roof tiles further, you can simply nail it into place with a hammer.

As long as you can access them safely, it’s fairly easy to clean soffits and fascias. Using a sponge and warm water to scrub them is a good way to get off most types of dirt. You might want to add detergent or bleach to the water to make it more effective.

Once you’ve scrubbed your soffits and fascias, rinse them with clean water to make sure you’ve got all of the dirt and detergent off.

A Velux window is a brand of roof window, but the brand is so popular that people often use the name to describe the entire type of window. They are windows that are installed at the same orientation and ‘in plane’ with the surrounding roof, and they’re usually installed at a minimum of a 15-degree pitch. You can buy roof windows that offer completely frameless internal views for a really clean look in your loft conversion, while some come with built-in shutters.

Velux windows aren’t to be confused with rooflights which usually refers to a glazed unit that’s installed on a flat roof. It might also mean a window that’s been installed on a pitched roof out of plane with the level of the tiling.

People also confuse roof windows with skylights, which normally can’t be opened or closed and are usually smaller than Velux windows. Skylights, therefore, only let daylight into the room whereas roof windows also help with ventilation.

If you’re using your loft as a room in your home rather than simply for storage, you must have a roof window installed. Skylights won’t be enough as they don’t allow for ventilation. It doesn’t have to be a Velux window – it can be any type of roof window. Luckily, they tend to come in standard sizes and they must be CE marked if they’re sold as a roof window, so they should be easy to find.