Find a Roofer you can trust in Perthshire.

There is simply not one single answer when it comes to knowing how much would it cost to replace a commercial roof. Replacement costs is a variable which is dependent on several factors.

If you are looking to take a shot at guessing an estimate, you will first need to understand the what is need for the replacement.

YOUR COMMERCIAL ROOF IS AGEING

The first sign of replacement is definitely the age. Generally, roofs come with a warranty of twenty years. Based on your materials, the real lifespan for a commercial roof tends to be around 15 to 25 years. Depending on the maintenance and the materials, lifespan can be prolonged.

YOUR COMMERCIAL ROOF LOOKS TIRED

Compare your commercial property with other buildings in the area. If it looks pale and worn out in comparison, it is high time for replacement.

WATER DAMAGE

A sturdy roof should be able to withstand extreme weather conditions such as heavy rain or high winds. However, if a storm has caused significant damage to your roof, its structural integrity might be compromised. water damage is one of the most indicative signs for a roof replacement.

CRACKS AND HOLES IN ROOFING MATERIALS

Proper upkeep of the roofing materials is required for it to continue protecting your property. If you find any cracks or holes, bent tiles or sheets, replacing them is advisable.

SAGGING COMMERCIAL ROOF

Roof replacement is critical when your roof suffers from sagging or corrosion. Once sagging or corrosion begins, the structure becomes vulnerable to damage.

Keeping all the above factors in mind, replacing your commercial roof can range from anywhere around £10,900 to £44,000 depending on the materials you choose. Materials are available in the market from £35 to around £75 per square meter. If you chose higher or premium quality materials, price can range from £115 to £200 per square meter.

Chimneys are certainly on top of the commonly overlooked features when it comes to cleaning a house. This is quite understandable given the fact that they’re not readily accessible and not in plain sight, hence, home and property owners tend to overlook the relevance of any chimney cleaning effort. But this can be a grave mistake! The importance of having your chimney swept on a regular basis cannot be over emphasized and even more so if it happens to be on a wood burner. Not only can a dirty chimney constitute fire hazard, but when left uncleaned it can also give rise to blockages which can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. In fact, from 2014 to 2018, one of the top factors contributing to about 25% of home heating fires is due to lack of cleaning, mainly from solid-fueled heating equipment, mostly chimneys. Therefore, sweeping your chimney regularly is a safety precaution and when they happen to be on a wood burner, this exercise becomes a lot more important. With that in mind, the question that arises is just how often is sweeping of a chimney on a would burner needed?

Well, it’s strongly advisable to sweep chimney on a wood burner at least twice a year by a qualified professional depending on the usage. If you happen to own an oil burning fireplace, the same also applies. In other words, this means that regardless of the type of chimney you possess, the cleaning must be done regularly. However, most chimney would only need to be swept once in a year by a qualified professional.

To find a commercial roofer near you, you could ask other tenants or property owners whether they can recommend a company. If you choose a company that’s been recommended to you, make sure you do your own research into them before you decide to engage them; you can check whether they have social media pages, reviews and examples of previous work. If the company has a Quotatis profile, you’ll find genuine reviews from their customers there, including photos of work they’ve completed.

Another option is to do your own search online. These days lots of companies will have their own website and you may be able to make an enquiry through there without even having to call them. Again, you should always check out their qualifications, previous work and reviews before deciding to go with them.

Or, you could let Quotatis do the work for you. Simply tell us about your commercial roofing project and where the property is and we’ll put you in touch with up to 4 reputable commercial roofers that will be able to offer you a free, no-obligation quote. You can check out their reviews, qualifications, insurance and photos of work on their profile which we’ll send to you in an email when we’ve matched you. The roofing companies should contact you first, but if they don’t we’ll give you all their details so you can introduce yourself.

You should inspect your roof at least once a year, to check there are no leaks or infestations. It’s best to do this just after it has rained, so leaks are as obvious as possible. You may find over a period of time there is a build up of moss on the roof, this should be cleaned so rain water has a clear path to the guttering.

Blisters are most common on membrane roofing systems. Lots of contractors will tell you that if there are no signs of further damage, there might not be any need to repair flat roof blisters. They form when pockets of air or water get trapped between layers of the roof’s membrane or between the membrane and the frame. When the sun is out and it heats the pockets expand and stretch the membrane. If you do want to repair your flat roof blisters, there are a few ways to go about it.

If you have a membrane flat roof, cut away the membrane until you reach a place where the membrane is still stuck tightly to the roof. Reapply as many new membrane layers as you cut away over the blistered area. You might even need to do more. To make sure your patch remains watertight, you’ll need to leave at least 6 inches around the edges of the blister.

If you’ve got a felt roof, you can cut an X shape through the blister. Peel back the triangles that you’ve made and let the timber frame dry for a while (so don’t do this when rain is forecast!). Then, coat the area with lots of bitumen adhesive and leave it to dry until it feels tacky. Then press down the triangles of felt firmly into the adhesive.

After that, you’ll need to add more bitumen adhesive to the cuts you made. If you’ve got any spare roofing felt, cut a square that’s about 100mm bigger than the cuts then lay this over the adhesive. If you’ve not got any felt, it’s cheaper to use a self-adhesive flashing strip. Once you’ve laid the strip or patch over, seal the edges with more bitumen adhesive.

A roof serves as something which is so much more than just a top of a building. A roof delivers guard from the elements and precipitation, it also helps drain water from a structure, and helps to provide insulation to the structure allowing it to keep the interior of a building cool or warm, according to season.

There are several steps to building a roof

Mount the trusses.

This step requires the building’s wall frames to be completely level, square and plumb. If you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame you must use ladders or scaffolding. Hoist the trusses onto the roof.

Install temporary braces.

You will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed, this has to be done before you install the trusses. At the centre of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud.

Install the end trusses.

Install the two end trusses at the front and back of the building, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. The batten you take will have to be a bit longer than the distance will separate the trusses.

Install the standard trusses.

According to the instructions provided by the manufacturer, you will first need to install the first standard truss. You will also need to nail it to the batten from the first truss.

Sheath the roof.

Once your trusses permanently braced, you can begin with the sheathing of the roof. Starting from the bottom corner and moving across the bottom, the sheathing is installed lengthwise.

Install the roof cover.

Like the sheathing and underlayment procedures, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. The shingles should be staggered, and they should also overlap at the same time. You will need to work up to the ridge and use a ridge cap shingles to finish the ridge.

The task of installing a tile roof can be quite a difficult one. Such a project takes a great deal of preparation, well before the actual tile installation is done. It does not matter if you are putting new ones or replacing your old tiles, understanding the proper technique and steps become crucial.

Remove old roofing (if applicable).

This is, on its own, a major job that can take days and require special tools. It takes some time, but be prepared to do it right.

Install battens (if applicable).

Battens may be needed to hold the tiles in place if the roof is having a steep slope. Usually made of metal or wood, battens are generally 1 inch thick and run horizontally along the roof.

You can find several varieties of tiles that has a hook or a lip allowing it to hang on the available battens. Apart from this, you can find several clips in the market which help to attach the tiles on to the batten.

Determining the spacing for battens can be done easily using two tiles. To prevent interlocking, a three inch overlap is required at the minimum, and a smaller amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Keep this in mind when you determine the locations of the battens.

After you have determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and set battens using that spacing up, making sure to double-check measurements as you go along.

• Install the tiles.

• You will need to begin with one side first, and then continue to move along the length of the roof.

• Cut tiles to fit tight spots.

• Tiles have to be cut precisely to overcome any obstacle like the chimney.

• Install the ridge tiles.

After completing the broad surfaces of the roof, special ridge tiles are required to cap the top.