Find a Roofer you can trust near you.

An eave is the edge of a roof, which is why they are now and then called roof eaves. On a household's outside, eaves can stick out outside the side of the building, serving both ornamental and applied purposes. The eave of a house has come to mean the lower area of the roof that projects after the external covering, as opposite to a cornice, which is part of the entablature in Classical architecture.

Think of how a roof outspreads outside the covering, and then think about how a hard rain may roll down the roof and, on the ground, away from the structure. Centuries ago, the eavesdrop was that indentation line made around a structure when the rain fell off the edge of the roof onto the ground.

Types of Eaves

A roof can come to a conclusion in essentially three ways. A closed eave is the one which has very little or no overhang at all. An open eave has a visible overhang, projecting beyond the roof brackets. A boxed eave is surrounded with a soffit.

The Use of Eaves?

An eave can defend the siding and substance of a structure. A roof eave bulging beyond the sides permits snow and rain to fall from the roof away from the covering, to the ground. The more the "weather" gets thrown away from the household, the chances of you having a dry basement increases.

In cases of regions with a warmer climate, a large eave can help provide shade to the interior of the house. In rainy environments, the prolonged eaves of Asian architecture deliver shelter from the climate, as well as direction. In the 21st century, an eave may be an inconspicuous site for security cameras and light.

Commercial roofing simply refers to any roofing work, including installation and repair, that is done to commercial buildings. This might include office roofs, shop roofs or commercial unit roofs. Every building needs a roof to keep out the rain!

Since looks aren’t usually the first priority with commercial buildings, lots of commercial properties have flat roofs. These are often made from felt, EDPM rubber or fibreglass. Felt is the cheapest commercial roofing material, while fibreglass tends to be the most expensive. In felt roofs, roofers use an adhesive to stick roofing felt onto a frame. EDPM rubber roofs have a rubber membrane that is laid down and glued onto the roof and coated with a contact adhesive, while fibreglass uses a cut glass fibre mat that is pressed on before a resin and topcoat are applied.

Not all roofing companies will offer commercial roofing services, because generally the buildings tend to be bigger. Small companies won’t have enough tradespeople to work on a roof without making it very expensive for you. Commercial buildings also tend to need more scaffolding to make it safe for the professionals to work, so some smaller roofing companies won’t offer commercial services. Make sure you check a company’s website or social media if you’re looking for commercial roofing – on the Quotatis Directory, our roofers will show whether they do commercial roofing to make your search easier.

How Much Is It To Replace A Garage Roof?

The size of your garage will be the main determinant of the cost of a new garage roof. However, the present condition of your roof structure as well as the type of roof covering preferred are also huge factors. In the UK, the cost of a garage roof replacement will be within the range of £700 to £3600.

The first step a pro will take is to remove the existing roofing while also making sure that the timber structure is in a good condition. In the event whereby the timber is rotten, it will need to be replaced before the installation of a new roof. If the garage roof sheets needs a replacement, you’ll have to spend about £30 to £50 per each garage roof sheets. Individual plywood sheet has around 2.4m x 1.2m in measurement and whose price should also be included in the final cost.

The above information applies only to standard roofing for garage roofs with flat roofs being made of bitumen felt and asphalt. In recent times, this is no longer the case with several more options available. Today, EPDM and GRP fibreglass have rapidly become very popular amongst several homeowners in the country. It’s also important to note that modern roofing has greatly advanced over the years even though both EPDM garage roofs and GRP fibreglass garage roofs are way better and of more quality when compared to felt and asphalt roofs. And thanks to modern technology, modern garage roofing possesses a longer life expectancy and as result, are a lot costlier than the conventional ones.

For a medium size single garage (2.7m x 5.5m), the cost for a felt roof per square metre is between £40 to £70, while that of a fiberglass roof and an EPDM rubber roof is between £90 to £110 and £70 to £100 respectively.

Keeping water away from your house is of great importance and hence, the installation of a roof guttering system to serve this purpose. However, in order to perform this task effectively and seamlessly, there’s a need to clear out the clogging dirt and debris from the gutter and ensure it’s free from water-blocking obstacles at all times. Although there are a number of ways to achieve this, but the major cause of concern for several home and property owners is having to work at heights or on top of a ladder to get the job done. This is a very dangerous endeavour especially if you do not have the confidence required to pull it off. As a result, we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who possess the skills when it comes to working at heights and delivering a highly effective clean. Fortunately, there are a couple of ways you can get to clean your gutters without having to climb any ladders. Let’s take a look!

• Clean the gutter with a leaf blower. Several leaf blowers feature a nozzle attachment which is made to release a narrow stream of air which is suitable for cleaning of gutters. You don’t need a ladder to do the clean as a specialized attachment is available in order to increase the blower’s reach to your roof effortlessly. The final step would be to remove any lingering leaves or twigs using a hose.
• Clean the gutter with a wet or dry vacuum. For heavier debris, you can try out a wet or dry vacuum. To reach the obstructed gutters while standing on the ground, simply get curved attachments and hoses at a local home improvement store. You may, however, need to moisten some stubborn dirt before it can be properly vacuumed or removed.after completing the vacuuming process, simply flush the gutters with garden hose waters.

A roof serves as something which is so much more than just a top of a building. A roof delivers guard from the elements and precipitation, it also helps drain water from a structure, and helps to provide insulation to the structure allowing it to keep the interior of a building cool or warm, according to season.

There are several steps to building a roof

Mount the trusses.

This step requires the building’s wall frames to be completely level, square and plumb. If you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame you must use ladders or scaffolding. Hoist the trusses onto the roof.

Install temporary braces.

You will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed, this has to be done before you install the trusses. At the centre of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud.

Install the end trusses.

Install the two end trusses at the front and back of the building, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. The batten you take will have to be a bit longer than the distance will separate the trusses.

Install the standard trusses.

According to the instructions provided by the manufacturer, you will first need to install the first standard truss. You will also need to nail it to the batten from the first truss.

Sheath the roof.

Once your trusses permanently braced, you can begin with the sheathing of the roof. Starting from the bottom corner and moving across the bottom, the sheathing is installed lengthwise.

Install the roof cover.

Like the sheathing and underlayment procedures, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. The shingles should be staggered, and they should also overlap at the same time. You will need to work up to the ridge and use a ridge cap shingles to finish the ridge.

How to repair a hole in a flat roof depends on what material your flat roof is made from. If you have an asphalt, felt or EDPM rubber roof, the repairs are quite simple, whereas it’s a bit more tricky if you have a fibreglass flat roof. How to repair a hole in an asphalt flat roof If you’ve got a small hole in your asphalt flat roof, you might get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin. It’s best to use this as a temporary measure to tide you over until you can get in touch with a professional. If the hole is on the flashing, you can add heat-applied flashing tape to it, or use a patch of torched-on roofing felt. There are liquid systems you can use, but usually they’re only available to the trade. Repairing a hole in a felt flat roof It's a similar process to asphalt roofing if you want to repair a hole in a felt flat roof. Use a paint-on fix for a temporary solution, but the best way to repair a hole is to use a torched-on piece of roofing felt to cover the hole and make it watertight again. How to fix a hole in an EDPM rubber flat roof If the hole in a rubber flat roof is small, you may be able to get away with applying some lap sealant to the hole. Only use a small amount, as if you go for a more permanent repair later down the line all of this will need to be scraped off. You can also use a malleable piece of self-adhesive flashing – clean the area, add EDPM primer and stick the patch on from the centre outwards. Add sealant to the edges if you want to give it more water protection. How to fix pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof If you find pin holes in your fibreglass roof, it usually means there wasn’t enough resin used at installation. To repair the holes, you’ll need to sand down the entire roof back to the clear resin. Then clean the area with acetone and apply GRP roofing resin – the acetone ensures that the resin sticks. You might need two coats of resin to get rid of all the holes.

The task of installing a tile roof can be quite a difficult one. Such a project takes a great deal of preparation, well before the actual tile installation is done. It does not matter if you are putting new ones or replacing your old tiles, understanding the proper technique and steps become crucial.

Remove old roofing (if applicable).

This is, on its own, a major job that can take days and require special tools. It takes some time, but be prepared to do it right.

Install battens (if applicable).

Battens may be needed to hold the tiles in place if the roof is having a steep slope. Usually made of metal or wood, battens are generally 1 inch thick and run horizontally along the roof.

You can find several varieties of tiles that has a hook or a lip allowing it to hang on the available battens. Apart from this, you can find several clips in the market which help to attach the tiles on to the batten.

Determining the spacing for battens can be done easily using two tiles. To prevent interlocking, a three inch overlap is required at the minimum, and a smaller amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Keep this in mind when you determine the locations of the battens.

After you have determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and set battens using that spacing up, making sure to double-check measurements as you go along.

• Install the tiles.

• You will need to begin with one side first, and then continue to move along the length of the roof.

• Cut tiles to fit tight spots.

• Tiles have to be cut precisely to overcome any obstacle like the chimney.

• Install the ridge tiles.

After completing the broad surfaces of the roof, special ridge tiles are required to cap the top.

Chimneys are certainly on top of the commonly overlooked features when it comes to cleaning a house. This is quite understandable given the fact that they’re not readily accessible and not in plain sight, hence, home and property owners tend to overlook the relevance of any chimney cleaning effort. But this can be a grave mistake! The importance of having your chimney swept on a regular basis cannot be over emphasized and even more so if it happens to be on a wood burner. Not only can a dirty chimney constitute fire hazard, but when left uncleaned it can also give rise to blockages which can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. In fact, from 2014 to 2018, one of the top factors contributing to about 25% of home heating fires is due to lack of cleaning, mainly from solid-fueled heating equipment, mostly chimneys. Therefore, sweeping your chimney regularly is a safety precaution and when they happen to be on a wood burner, this exercise becomes a lot more important. With that in mind, the question that arises is just how often is sweeping of a chimney on a would burner needed?

Well, it’s strongly advisable to sweep chimney on a wood burner at least twice a year by a qualified professional depending on the usage. If you happen to own an oil burning fireplace, the same also applies. In other words, this means that regardless of the type of chimney you possess, the cleaning must be done regularly. However, most chimney would only need to be swept once in a year by a qualified professional.