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Solar thermal panels work by capturing heat directly from the sun and using it to heat water. This hot water is then passed through a coil to heat the water for your central heating system. Solar thermal systems are compatible with many existing conventional boilers with hot water tanks, and can be set up to feed in to your existing heating system.

Solar panels provide an alternative to paying expensive National Grid energy rates, so primarily their first major benefit is helping to reduce bills. Solar PV panels will produce free electricity, whilst solar thermal panels generate heat for hot water and space heating. There are also payment incentives known as the Feed-in Tariff scheme (FITs) (for solar PV) and the Renewable Heat Incentive (for solar thermal) which guarantee a tax-free income for 20 years.

If you’re looking to install some new solar panels in your home or property, then you’d probably want to know how it works. This is one of the most frequent questions asked by homeowners when it comes to solar panels and in this article we aim to give you a good insight on the operations of solar panels. Let’s have a look!

Generally, solar panels work by absorbing the energy of the sun and then converting it into electricity. It functions by allowing photons from the rays of the sun release the electrons free from atoms within the photovoltaic or solar cells in order to produce a flow of electricity. There are several solar cells that are connected together ( usually 60 or 72 ) in each panel. Individual cells comprises both a negative layer and a positive one which combines perfectly to create an electrical field in which the energy is generated.

The boron that’s within the bottom layer generates the positive charge, while the phosphorous found in the silicon layer produces the negative charge. In order to convert the sun’s rays into the energy that’s going to be transported from the panels to the inverter, the two field will interact with one another.

In other words, solar panels work by turning photons from the sunlight into direct current which is transmitted to the inverter. Once it gets to the inverter, it’s then translated to alternating current and send this current to to your electric box which powers the entire home. If you do not wish to reduce the high bills that’s associated with renting power from the grid, the solar energy system is an efficient and affordable way to achieve this aim.

If you happen to live in a quiet, serene environment ( or just cherish being in one) and wish to have an air source heat pump installed on your property, then you’d probably want to know just how noisy these renewable energy source are. In this post, we aim to provide answers to this question and more. Let’s take a look!

There is no short and direct answer to this question as air source heat pumps are available in varying shapes and sizes which makes the sound as well as volume of their noise different between models and manufacturers. However, as a result of government regulations, most of the contemporary air source heat pumps are able to function a lot quieter when compared to the older models. As you would have expected, modern air source heat pumps shouldn’t produce more than a low whirring sound provided they’re functioning as they should with no faults. On the other hand, the volume of the sound generated is largely dependent on the amount of work the air source heat pump is doing. This implies that a greater work load will generate a louder noise. This is due to the fan’s speed which works to absorb warm air into the compressor.

In order not to disturb the neighbours, noise pollution is normally determined at the design stage of the air source heat pump installation. The unit to be placed outdoor will typically be positioned as far from the neighbours property as possible and it’s also a great idea not to put the box directly under any windows. Overall, it’s always advisable to go for the newer models which tend to be better designed with thicker chassis and quieter fans.

When people think about heat pumps, they’ll automatically have the believe that a swimming pool will require a big heat pump. Since the swimming pool has a large volume of water, then warming such a volume will require a large ground source heat pump because that volume is much larger than the normal domestic hot water tank, right? Well, that point of reasoning does seem logical especially with the information almost everywhere that ground source heat pumps are usually less efficient when it comes to heating hot water for home’s use. However, the fact is there are also some things to put into consideration that also works in favour of the ground source heat pump.

First and foremost, you should know your domestic hot water will typically be heated to a much higher temperature when compared to your swimming pool. Since you wouldn’t be using the water to disinfect your bathroom or doing your dishes in your swimming pool, then the temperature can be much lower. In fact, it’s much more comfortable and enjoyable to heat to a typical “swimming pool temperature than having it at a hot bath temperature. If you’ve ever wandered into a really hot swimming pool, you wouldn’t need any introduction to the painful discomfort that comes next.

As a result of this low temperature, your “tiny heat pump can operate a in a more efficient way which makes the use of ground source heat pumps a viable swimming pool heating option. What’s more? The ground source heat pump works for a swimming pool just like any any other application - moving the heat from the region of a warmer temperature to the cooler temperature region.

Biomass boilers do require some maintenance. Many manufacturers recommend servicing twice a year, although this is often included in the installation cost. Many systems have automatic fuel loading that removes the need to manually load fuel. You will need to remove the ash from the boiler, but this is as easy as emptying a vacuum cleaner.

The more you’re at home during the day, the more you can save on your electricity bill, since solar panels generate electricity during the day. The Feed-in Tariff scheme (FITs) ended in March 2019, but the new Smart Export Guarantee (SEG) pays you, via your energy supplier, for the electricity you export back to the grid. With the savings involved in generating your own electricity and SEG payments, you can expect to save up to £390 per year on your electricity bill.

If you’re considering installing ground source heat pump, it’s likely you’re also wondering just how deep it’ll go into the ground to be efficient. Well, the initial step to take while determining the ground source heat pump’s design is to research the different options available to reduce the space heating as well as hot water demand. To achieve this, there must be an accurate measurement of energy efficiency which is usually done by getting an Energy Performance Certificate ( EPC) . This is helpful as such that it helps to identify the most suitable or the right size of heat pumps which will help reduce the consumption of energy, heat loss as well as hot water needs of the house.

Generally, ground source heat pumps are usually more compatible with new builds against retrofits. What’s more? The heat pump has two different types of loop systems :

✓ The open loop system and;

✓ The closed loop system.

The open loop system absorbs water from the ground and transfers this ground water via a heat pump to where it carries out the extraction of heat. Meanwhile the closed loop system extracts heat from the ground and incorporates a continuous loop of piping that’s linked to the indoor heat pump. There are a few types of closed loop system, these includes:

✓ The Horizontal Ground Source Heat Pump. This is installed in horizontal trenches of about 1 to 2 metres deep. This is more common in areas where land is readily available.

✓ The Vertical Ground Source Heat Pump. These boreholes are a more costly option but it’s also the best option when land is not readily available for horizontal installation. The insulation hole is dug at a minimum of 6 metres into the ground, while the entire piping will be at a depth of about 50 to 150 metres based on your home’s heat requirements as well as the ground’s composition.