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Can You Plaster Over WallPaper?

If you have wallpaper installed on your wall surface and you’re considering plastering the wall, when you put into consideration the stress involved in removing a wallpaper you may want to consider plastering directly over the wallpaper. This is quite understandable as removing a wallpaper can be quite time consuming and tedious, but plastering directly over wallpaper is a mistake that should never be made. Plastering over wallpaper is in no way a viable option due to the fact that it can only turn out disastrous after a couple of weeks or even days in some cases as the plaster will crack and crumble. As a result, you’ll have to firstly scrape off the wallpaper in order to assist the plaster get to be firmly secured to the wall behind.

When you plaster over a wallpaper, this will make the wallpaper wet and it’ll absorb the moisture. And once the plaster does not have moisture, the only result is for it to crack and start to crumble. Hence, plaster and wallpaper is never a good combination.

Asides from cracking and crumbling, anther issue is that the wallpaper will bubble. You can actually key the wallpaper with the help of a knife and it might look secured for some time, however it’ll eventually crumble and you’d have to scrape off the plaster complete to start all over again. The wallpaper will bubble as the plaster can’t be keyed into a wallpaper and the wallpaper will only work as a barrier between the plaster and the wall.

Overall, plaster always needs to slowly dry off as well as a good and proper surface to grip to. No matter the amount of PVA mix you spread on the wallpaper, it will always remain a barrier. So you’d have to remove the wallpaper completely to get a great result.

There are several different kinds of plastering. ‘Dot and dab’ refers to a base layer of plasterboard which is attached to a wall using ‘dabs’ of adhesive. ‘Floating’ is a technique where a backing or undercoat plaster is applied to walls. ‘Skimming’ or ‘reskimming’ refers to the very thin final decorative layer of plaster.

Prior to removing artex on your ceiling, it’s always crucial to determine whether or not the surface coating material contains asbestos. Asides from this, you may also wish to know how much you’re going to have the asbestos artex ceiling removed. If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, this post was written to help give you an idea of the price it’s going to cost to remove asbestos artex ceiling in the UK.

Unfortunately, as simple as it seems, there’s no single straightforward answer to this question as there are many factors that can affect the cost of hiring an asbestos artex removal professional. These factors include the project’s scale, the complexity of the area which needs to be removed as well as the need for extra materials. Generally, professional artex removal companies charge a standard rate for their labour. As a result, you can always predict that the tradesperson’s labour will be more costly based on the extent of the job. Therefore, the more costly the labour fees will be if the job takes longer time to complete.

On the average, a tradesperson will charge within the range of £250 to £400 on a daily basis to undertake the project for you. And of course, you can expect these rates to vary based on the company hired as well as the area you live in. For rxample, you can expect that a tradesperson’s charges would be higher in an area such as Central London, as opposed to other areas which are more rural.

Artex is a water based surface coating which is used to decorate both ceilings and walls with a textured finish. Back in the 1970’s, artex happens to be very popular when the swirling or spiky effects it creates  were considered to be the best of fashion when it comes to interior designs. However, in today’s world, an artex ceiling is not only considered outdated but also a pain to clean and repair.

If you have an artex ceiling in your residential property and looking for a way to get it off, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to show you how its done without much stress.

To get started you’d need to get the following tools and material which includes: safety goggles, dust mask and rubber gloves, plastic sheeting, canvas drop cloth ( carpet) or rosin paper (hard floor) and step ladder

Prepare the room. Start this by moving all furniture out of the room or stack the furniture at the centre of the room and cover using plastic sheets. Once done, cover all non-removable items with plastic sheets and lay down a canvas drop cloth for carpet floors and rosin paper for hard floors

• Put on your safety gear
• Use a utility knife or joint knife to slowly chip away at the texture and create a smooth surface.
• Mix joint compound in a bucket as per the instructions on the package
• Skim the surface with a thin layer of joint compound to smooth it out using a taping knife, then leave to dry overnight before you proceed
• Lightly sand the surface smooth with the help of a 220-grit sanding block
• Use a damp cloth to wipe the surface clean prior to painting.

Although they’re pretty much outdated now, artex happens to be a very popular surface coating option just a few decades ago. Several homeowners with artex in recent times would either want to have them removed or cover them up with stuffs such as a wallpaper. So if you’re wondering whether or not it’s possible to wallpaper over artex, then there you have it. It’s possible to wallpaper over artex, however it’s not advisable as wallpaper may eventually crack over time. On the other hand, the artex can also create ridges beneath the wallpaper which allows unpleasant protrusions in the wallpaper. Instead of applying wallpaper over artex, a more permanent solution would be to cover it with drywall or wet plaster or perhaps just have it removed completely.

There are two types of wallpaper, there’s the thin wallpaper application which comes with adhesive on one side as well as a pattern or colour on the other side. With this, all you need do is simply to peel and stick. Then the other type is the sturdier wallpaper that’s more thick and requires a special wallpaper paste. However, it’s important to note that if you choose to wallpaper over your artex, you won’t be able to make use of the thin type of wallpaper, rather you’ll have to incorporate the sturdier  option which makes use of wallpaper paste.

The wallpaper paste is the product you mix with water to produce a paste which you’ll have to apply to your walls before applying the applying the regular wallpaper - one without adhesive on one side. Appling wallpaper to an artex decoration may just give you the updated appearance you so much desire.

Also commonly referred to as drywall, plasterboard is an incredibly versatile product which features a sandwich of gypsum plaster between thick paper layers. It’s mainly used on both walls and ceilings due to the wide range of benefits it provides. Not only can plasterboard be made to be humidity resistant, fire resistant as well as noise resistant, but they’re also known to have a low environment impact, easy to repair and can be used to conceal stuff from plain sight. As a result of these benefits couple with the fact that they also happen to be quite affordable, plasterboard has grown to become a ubiquitous phenomenon in modern residential buildings.

When it comes to the installation of plasterboard on ceilings, one of the major sources of concern for several homeowners is the determination of the thickness required to ensure a durable and long-lasting project. If you’re planning to fit plasterboard on your ceiling and wondering the thickness that’ll be appropriate, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight on what plasterboard to use for ceilings. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, the standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much-needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths. Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

The short and simple answer to this question is, it depends. Artex surface coating was manufactured with white abestos ( until the mid 1980’s ) in order to strengthen as well as harden it. In other words, this implies that all the ceilings and walls coverings made by Artex Ltd and other manufactures at the time are highly likely to contain asbestos. Although Artex Ltd stopped using asbestos as early as the mid 1980’s, there were still other manufacturers who continued using it until 1999 when the laws and regulations covering the use of asbestos changed in the year 2000.

Asbestos, however, is only harmful when disturbed and releases its deadly fibres. For instance, when it’s being sanded and removed as it usually poses no risks when left undisturbed. Since it’s not possible to identify Artex containing asbestos fibres with the naked eye, it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a qualified person or company to help determine if you have asbestos in your ceilings or walls especially if your house was constructed before the year 2000. The professionals will be able to advise you on the best course of action as well as if it’s dangerous.

To be sure if your Artex contains asbestos, you’ll need to have the artex sampled by an asbestos surveyor. If you’re planning to have a construction or maintenance work done on your property, and the artex is likely to be in the way or disturbed, there’s a need for you to have a refurbishment or demolition asbestos survey done. This will ensure that all the areas that’ll be disturbed by the work is properly tested to determine the presence or otherwise of asbestos. If found, the artex will have to be addressed and either removed or protected before any work can take place.

Installing a plasterboard to a ceiling is not the easiest of tasks, and even though it can be done by one person, it’s usually a lot easier when done by two people. If you’re an experienced DIYer, this task becomes a lot easier to undertake, with both confidence and patience needed to ensure a successful outcome. If you lack these essential attributes, we’d strongly recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the processes involved to plasterboard your ceiling. Let’s take a look!

✓ Take a measurement of your ceiling. Knowing the length and width of your room is crucial here. You have nothing to worry about if it’s not a perfect square as that’ll only mean more cutting.

✓ Make the necessary plasterboard cuts. Cut the plasterboard sheet with a utility knife in accordance to ceiling space measured.

✓ Remove existing plaster. Once done, examine the trusses and beams to ensure they’re still in a great condition before you proceed. Also, make sure there’s no loose plaster that can compromise your new installation.

✓ Apply construction adhesive. For a better fit, you’d have to apply adhesive along the beams while also avoiding the edges as this could affect your screw placement.

✓ Start in a level corner. You have to start the installation from the most level corner.

✓ Work along the outside edges. Secure it using a screw along the outside edge. This will make your plasterboard held to your ceiling perfectly. It won’t bend or break as your proceed with the installation.

✓ Complete the installation. Install the plasterboard on your entire ceiling and complete the installation by taping the seams and plastering for a smooth surface.