Find a Driveway Installer you can trust in South Croydon.

Are you worried there’s a slope on the area where your block paving is to be installed? Good news is, it’s very possible to lay block paving on a slope. However, this can be a very difficult task which should be done by a reliable professional ( especially if you lack proper training and experience) who can guarantee the best results, the first time and also help save you money from possible costly mistakes. This guide will provide you with everything you need about the slope block paving installation process. Let’s have a look!

• Demarcate The Walkway

To get started, you have to determine how and where you want your walkway to be while also determining the thickness of the paver. Ensure to choose the less sloppy area and utilize landscape paint to mark the area visibly.

• Prepare The Ground

Clear out all forms of dirts, roots, rocks and other debris on the soil. Once done, proceed to cutting the sods to the required length and put them somewhere close.

• Make Boundaries

There’s a need for landscape borders. Here, it’ll be easier to use plastics as boundaries for your lawn’s edges. Install them on the sides that have already been cut

• Apply A Level Of Gravel

Obtain the correct size of gravel and spread them evenly over the area to ensure a firm foundation for the pavers is formed. Makes sure that the rocks is at a minimum of 2 inches deep into the soil.

• Install The Block Pavers

Start from the centremost position of the pathway and work towards the sides until you’re able to cover every inch of the area.

• Apply A Layer Of Cement

Apply cement over the pavers and utilize a broom to sweep it and fill up all the gaps and spaces between the pavers. Then, press the pathway to be levelled using a compactor.

Are you planning on investing in a new driveway for your home? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how much you’re going to incur to complete the project. In this guide, we’ll give you an idea of the cost of constructing a new driveway.

When it comes to driveway construction a larger part ( up to 80%) of the cost is made of the parts that are completely invisible to you - the sub base as well as the ground preparation, while the remaining cost of about 20 percent is required for the paving and other materials. As a result, there are multiple factors affecting the price of a driveway project. These includes the materials preferred, the level of work that’s required for the ground preparation as well as the complexity of the laying pattern or design. With this in mind, you’d have to schedule an appointment with two or more professional to obtain and compare their quotes.

Although there are many other options, but block paving happens to be a popular choice due to its cost effectiveness, visual appeal as well as being a hard wearing drive. The common choice for block paving I the Drivesett Tegula and the price usually starts from range between £30 to £35 per m2 and above. However if you’re looking for the conventional block paving with a modern twist, then the Marshalls coppice is a suitable option. The cost of the option usually starts from £25 to £30 per m2 and above. You can also opt for block paving in circle designs which gives you a better option to make an impression. Once you’re able to figure out the size of the paving area, you can roughly estimate what the cost of your driveway will be.

Pitting, also referred to as spalling is the event whereby “pits” or small holes start showing on the surface of your concrete driveway which makes it appear both worn and uneven. Concrete driveway pitting is a common but highly frustrating problem for most homeowners. You’ll see some concrete driveways that’ll only start to pit after a couple of years, but this is not true for all concrete driveways as others will start to show signs only after a couple of months. So how do you tackle this issue? Well, it’s relatively simple to tackle, however if you’re not confident or lack the necessary skills, we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the concrete driveway pitting repair process.

✓ Prepare the pits by cleaning the area, clearing out all debris and more. The small pits can be cleaned with a stiff brush while a sturdy broom will do a good job for larger pits.

✓ Make use of a hose to spray the concrete pits and flush out all remaining bits of waste.

✓ If you’re tackling series of small pits, simply use a caulking gun filled with pre-mixed epoxy and specially formulated for concrete to fill the pits. Clear off the excess eproxy ensuring that its level with the concrete surface. Once done, simply leave for at least 24 hours before the application of a concrete sealant to prevent the wear and tear of the new concrete.

✓ Chisel out a little concrete and clean with a pressure washer. Once done, apply a concrete resurfacing compound mixture into the holes and use a trowel to level off.

✓ Ensure that the repaired concrete driveway is protected from rain and foot traffic for at least 6 hours (or 24 hours for vehicles).

Gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving can all be permeable. However, some types of asphalt and concrete are impermeable. This is why it’s important to be precise about what material you want for your driveway. If you want a permeable driveway, you should also make sure that your sub-base is also permeable.

Tarmac is a material made up of broken stone and tar, used for surfacing roads, driveways and other outdoor areas. It’s actually a registered product trademark, but many people use ‘tarmac’ interchangeably with ‘asphalt’. Asphalt is similar to tarmac, but is now more commonly used, and is made from bitumen instead of tar.

While resin bound and resin bonded driveways have similar names, it might surprise you to know that they’re very different. Both paving systems use resin and aggregates (stones) to form a fixed surface, but there are plenty more differences than there are similarities.

Resin bound driveways are made from a resin and aggregate mix that is trowelled onto a bitmac or concrete base. It leaves a smooth, flat finish and you won’t find any loose gravel. It’s also a pourous surface, which means that rainwater can pass through into the ground, avoiding pools and flooding.

However, resin bonded driveways involve spreading resin across a base, then scattering aggregate into it. Most of the stones will stick to the resin, but some will stay loose. That means you’ll get the effect of loose gravel without so much to sweep and take care of. Because the stones are scattered onto a complete layer of resin, water can’t pass through it. That means you could end up with water pooling, and it also means that a resin bonded driveway isn’t frost resistant, meaning it could get slippery.

So which is better – a resin bound or resin bonded driveway? The answer depends on a few things. If you have a period property where a smooth, shiny surface might not complement the look of your home, you might want to go for resin bonded. If you need lots of grip, for example if you’re a wheelchair user, resin bonded may also be the way to go – even though resin bound surfaces still offer enough grip for sloped driveways and ramps. But if you want a low-maintenance, weed-free, permeable surface, resin bound driveways are the way to go.

There is a variety of methods available to ensure that your paving drains properly, for example draining into a lawn or soakaway. Correct drainage of paving is a requirement for planning permission. See our guide on planning permission for paving for more information.