Find a Driveway Installer you can trust in Camberley.

The most commonly used driveway surfacing materials are gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving - which can be block, slabbed or patten imprinted. Take a look at our product information pages to help you decide which one to use and which one will look best for your driveway.

Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.

The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.

Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.

Do you want to install a new patio? If yes, then on top of the agenda will definitely be the cost of paving slabs. However providing a single and accurate estimate to the cost of your new patio is almost impossible as there are many factors that can influence what the price would be. These factors include the size of the area, the choice of stone, installations and lots more.

To get a more accurate estimate of your cost there’s is the need to look at some factors before calculation. These includes envisioning your patio as well as putting the drainage in mind. Firstly, you’ll need to decide where you want your patio to be - this should include considering whether you’ll get enough privacy sitting on your patio and more. If you’re able to identify where to put your patio, you’ll be able to have a clearer idea of the potential shape and size of the patio. Secondly, there’s a need to consider the drainage because failure to provide adequate drainage will only result in storing of water which leads to a development of algae or vegetation across your patio.

The material you opt for is also a huge determinant of your patio’s cost. When it comes to paving slabs you’ll only get what you pay for. Deciding to go for cheaper paving slabs will most likely lead to frequent staining, slippery surface, tough maintenance as well as constant cracking. Consequently, the act of cutting back on the cost of paving slabs will only you cost you more money in the long run. What’s more? If you have an existing patio you’d like to replace, then you’d probably need to include the cost of removing the existing one.

It’s up to you what size gravel you use for your driveway, but there are some guidelines that are worth following. If you go too small, your gravel will get displaced easily. But, if you go too big, you driveway might be quite tricky to walk on. Generally, it’s a good idea to go for a gravel size somewhere between 10-20mm.

It’s always a good idea to be sure of how you’re going to keep the annoying gravel spillage off your driveway way before its installation, however, if you’ve already done so, it’s better late than never. We all know how great a gravel driveway can look when the gravels manage to stay in place. When gravel is used on a driveway it provides a great transition from the normal hardness of a driveway to the organic softness of the lawn which doesn’t retain water or gush runoff during irrigation or rainfall. Unfortunately, the sad thing here is gravel don’t just like to stay put. Before long, if ignored, you’d realize your hard surfaces will almost be covered with gravel coming in from the side. So what’s the solution to this rather annoying situation?

Here, we’ll show you just how you can keep your gravel in place in your driveway. Let’s take a look!

The solution here is simple - simply make use of Pour On. With Pour On, you won’t have to think about of clearing out your gravel features to put an end to the issue of loose rocks spilling on your hard surfaces. With Pour On, you’ll be able to hold your gravel in place for several years to come. And even more importantly, it’s able to achieve this objective while also protecting the integrity the existing permeability of your driveway. What’s more? It also goes a long way to retain the natural look provided by your gravel driveway which makes it the perfect solution to the annoying gravel spillage issues.

Gravel is the cheapest driveway surfacing material. Asphalt costs a little more than gravel, and concrete is significantly more expensive. The cost of paving depends on the material you use. Obtain as many quotes as possible as materials and costs differ from company to company.

1. Prepare the base If you want your resin bound driveway to last a long time, you need to ensure that you prepare the base properly. Remove any block paving, grass or soil and dig down until you hit solid ground. Lay a sub-base of asphalt for good permeability. If you’re laying over the top of your current driveway, make sure that all cracks are increased into a ‘v’ shape with a saw and ensure the surface is dry and weed-free.
2. Mix the resin You must follow the instructions on the materials you have to the letter if you want the curing process to work. Usually batches come in ‘Part A’ and ‘Part B’. Keep the resin container secure and on a protective surface to avoid splashing, then mix Part A for 10-20 seconds at a slow speed with a helical bladed mixer. Add Part B and mix thoroughly at a slow speed for about 2 minutes until it’s blended together.
3. Mix the dried aggregates and sand with the resin Place a quarter of the aggregates into a mixer, then add the pre-mixed resin and start a stopwatch. You should then add the rest of the aggregates before slowly adding the sand. When you’re happy with that mix, stop the stopwatch. That time is the time that you need to spend mixing any other resin and aggregates to avoid colour variation.
4. Lay the mix on the surface Transfer the mix to the work area then plan a laying route. When the mix is laid out, use a very clean trowel to spread the mix. Clean it regularly during the process to avoid dragging aggregates out of place. Once the aggregates stop moving in a fluid movement and become solid, stop trowelling. Then you can polish the surface to give it an attractive shine.

Some paving projects require you to cut paving slabs to make them fit into a smaller space. To do this, firstly you need to measure the slab and draw a line in pencil or chalk where you want to cut.

There are then several different ways you can cut the slab – you or your professional can choose the one you or they are most happy with. A hammer and chisel can work well, or a handheld saw. You can also use an angle grinder fitted with a stone-cutting disc.