Find a Driveway Installer you can trust in Moelfre.

From gravel and crushed stones to asphalt and tarmac, the choice when it comes to surfacing options for driveways is truly staggering. However, what’s not too clear is the options that best suits a sloping driveway. If you also possess a sloping driveway and wondering the best material to install, you’re definitely not alone. This is a major source of concern for several home and property owners in the UK being fully aware that making the wrong choice here can prove really costly and disastrous. In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, we’ve put together this post which takes a look at the various driveway material options available to you.

• Gravel
  This driveway surfacing option provides a truly enjoyable “crunch sound when driven on, however, the satisfaction will be short lived if installed on a sloped driveway. If installed on a sloped driveway, there’s going to be a continual displacement as instinctively rolls downhill on an incline.

• Concrete
  This can prove to be a great problem if installed on an incline. This is due to the fact that concrete is subject to freeze/thaw phenomenon which makes it steep and slippery lacking the needed traction.

• Tarmac
  This is particularly far from ideal when it comes to a steep driveway surface. This is because it requires continuous maintenance to prevent spillages from spoiling the surface.

• Resin
  The best surface for a steep driveway is simply that made from resin. This is due to the fact that this surfacing option allows water to soak away naturally. They’re perfectly permeable, preventing water from pooling and reducing the risk of falls.

It’s up to you what size gravel you use for your driveway, but there are some guidelines that are worth following. If you go too small, your gravel will get displaced easily. But, if you go too big, you driveway might be quite tricky to walk on. Generally, it’s a good idea to go for a gravel size somewhere between 10-20mm.

You should pull up and remove weeds by hand as and when they appear. If it is a regular problem, you might need to reseal the paving. In extreme cases, the sub layer itself may need to be re-laid. You can use weed killer, however some paving can be discoloured by stronger weed killers.

To inexperienced people laying of paving slab isn’t much more than digging a little, purchasing little amount of mortar and pressing down the paving slabs. But how good would it have been if only it were that easy in real life? The truth is, in reality, laying paving slabs does not only require you to prepare your sub-base painstakingly and mix your mortar using the appropriate materials, but you’d also have to work with accurate and precise paver placements to guarantee the patio’s longevity. As a result, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you hire the services of a seasoned professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and extra cash that may result from possible costly errors. In this guide, you’d gain more insight into the paving slabs laying process.

To get started, you’ll need sharp sand, cement, shovel, wheelbarrow, pointing trowel, rubber mallet, spirit level, jointing compound, hard-bristled brush and tarpaulin.

• Mix a layer of mortar for each paver.

• Apply the mixed mortar onto the sub base by using the trowel.

• Slot the first flag in place and ensure not to stain the paver’s surface with the mixed mortar.

• Using a rubber mallet, carefully tap the paver to the mortar bed. Once done, ensure the surface is even with a spirit level.

• Take a measurement of the gap between the pavers

• Repeat the above steps until all pavers have been perfectly laid

• Leave the pavers to dry for about 1 to 2 days. You can protect it using a tarpaulin if concerned about rain.

• Use the jointing compound to fill up the paver gaps to bind together the pavers. Ensure to wipe off any excess compound using the hard bristled brush.

How to joint pave or grout paving slabs is a common question asked by several home owners. Most times they may have some existing paving and thinking its high time to have them re-pointed or laid some new pavings and wondering how to fill the gaps.

In the UK, patios don’t get much use especially during cold winter months. However even when not in use, the combination of wet weather and cold temperatures is capable of having the hardest outdoor living spaces looking a bit neglected. This may lead to cracked grouting which leaves gaps between stones making way to a place where weeds can grow and flourish during spring. You definitely wouldn’t want your outdoor living space looking this messy. Hence, there’s a need to get your patio back on track by grouting the paving slabs. However, if you lack proper training or experience, it’s advisable to employ a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results. In this guide, you’ll learn more about the paving slabs grouting process.

• Saturate the area that needs to be repointed with the help of a hosepipe and/or watering cans. Use a yard brush to distribute the water across the paving slabs.

• Pour a generous amount of your compound product over the newly soaked patio.

• Sweep the into the joints where it’s needed with the help of a broom. Do this carefully in order to make sure each and every joint is fully filled with the compound. If done right, this can help prevent premature cracking for a long period of time.

• Once the joints are filled with the compound, brush aside the exces product and strike it in. Ensure that the product is pressed firmly into each gap leaving behind no spaces.

• Sweep out the excesses which can be kept for future use.

There are several effective ways to clean paving slabs. It’s important to pick a method that suits you and your paving material.

Whatever method you use, start by removing all weeds and loose debris from your paving. Then, if you have a pressure washer, you can simply use this to clean away any dirt.

If you don’t have a pressure washer, you can try using soapy water or watered-down bleach. If you use soapy water, mix a mild detergent like washing up liquid with warm water. Then pour it onto your paving, work it in with a brush and rinse it off with clean water.

If you use bleach, first make sure that the water won’t drain off onto any plant life, as this can kill it. You should also avoid using bleach on concrete slabs, as it will cause them to fade. Mix one-part bleach with five-parts water, pour it onto your paving and work it in with a brush. Then leave it for 15 minutes and rinse it off with clean water.

No, pattern imprinted concrete shouldn’t be slippery. Most good driveway installers will add a special anti-slip agent to the sealant before they brush it onto your driveway, so it will stop it from being slippery.

It’s important to ask a driveway company how they will seal your driveway when you get a quote from them. If an untrustworthy company seals your driveway badly, it can cause a thick and extremely slippery surface, so it’s vital that you ask any contractor what their procedure is before you engage them.

It’s also important to remember that pattern imprinted concrete isn’t a ‘non-slip’ surface – it’s just not slippery. You could still slip over on a concrete driveway, just like you could on tarmac or a block paved driveway. Also, once you’ve walked and driven over your driveway for a few months, its skid and slip resistance will increase as it weathers and builds up tiny specs of dirt on it. Pattern imprinted concrete is often used in high footfall areas in places like shops, fast food restaurants and theme parks, so if there was a significant slip risk these businesses wouldn’t use it.

You might think that you could ask your contractor not to seal the driveway to make it less slippery, but it could actually do the opposite. By sealing pattern imprinted concrete, it means that moss and algae is much less likely to grow, which can be extremely slippery to walk on if it’s left to its own devices. If moss does form on your driveway, the sealed surface is much easier to clean as you can simply pressure wash it away; this is not as easy to do on a non-sealed surface.

Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.

The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.

Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.